Shorai Battery - not good in cold

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Talked to the Shorai rep at the bike show about the cold start issue. I got the battery in May. He said they have "improved the chemistry" since then and he gave me his card and said to send him an email. They immediately responded and are sending me a new battery at no charge. Just have to send the old one back (at no cost). Hopefully, this new one will perform better in the cold.

 
it's a daily commuter. Except for rare weekends where I don't have to go anywhere. I wasn't about to pull the battery out after work every Friday and bolt it back in every Tuesday morning, or have to rush out with tools if I need to go somewhere and take the bike but the battery is out. When it got cold enough to cause the battery to flatten even when ridden the day before, I'd have been pulling the battery nightly and stuffing it back in each morning before work. Not a lot of fun at 5am when it's in the 30's.

With no place to plug in a tender, that would be the only option. Or be stuck buying a new battery yearly. Hopefully this new chemistry will get me around that. So far, so good. We'll see what happens this time next year.

can't trickle charge. the apartment carports are not attached and have no power outlets-and the bike is not enclosed or even really well under cover so exposed to the elements. My batteries die out in the winter when it gets into and stays in the 30's overnight. If I don't ride for two days there's no way the bike will start on a cold morning. Cranking till they go flat is the nail in the coffin-big batteries are hard enough to save when dead but the little ones, flatten -em once and they'll barely hold a charge even after a long ride. It's nothing to do with current draw unfortunately-the stock AGM is barely sufficient to crank the big bike over, leaves nothing over for diminished winter capacity.
This sounds like your real problem. The experts say when lead-acid batteries discharge to 50% or less a half dozen times, sulphation will occur and some of that is not reversable. 50% discharge is somewhere around 12.4-12.5 volts..... when you realize that, you'll understand the necessity to have a battery tender. No reason a battery well cared for won't last 4-5 years. In your case you should remove it and take it to a source of power where you can keep it charged.
It is worth you spending a few bucks on a Battery Tender, which comes with a harness to attach to your battery. Just run the lead under the access panels and up under the front of the tank for quick retrieval. This would sure beat buying a new battery every year. Plug it in if your commutes are too short to restore full charge.

 
.....or the battery czechs?

Forget the battery latvians...they left town and unsubscribed from this thread 6 pages ago.
So Steve-O, putting a pretty big dent into that bottle of Maker's Mark aren't you?

I am with SkooterG, I went with a traditional battery two months ago. However I had looked long and hard at the Shorai battery, but all that I read here make me so glad that I stayed with the tried and true FJR battery standard!

Hey RadioHowie, are you smoking a doobie with your whiskey? Pass that joint, My Friend!

 
So how the Hell do we know what "chemistry" we have? Is it related to the revision of the battery poles?
It is simple to change the chemistry of LiFePO4 (Lithium, Iron, Phosphate/Oxygen4) batteries by changing particle size or ratio. It could also be adding carbon or aluminum to the electrolyte or including a doping agent on the plates or pole pieces.

Shorai did say that they changed the way the cell plate terminals are bonded together at the time of the terminal upgrade. This was done to enhance the battery's current delivery (CCA).

 
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Well finally got to see my riding partner and his wife last night.

I asked how the battery was doing in his R1200RT. He said he had been waiting on me.

All but 3 weeks with a no start. He lives in a restored log cabin with a mountain stone foundation and garage. It was 23 yesterday when he pushed it out into the cold. Temp gauge on the bike said 34 with a snow flake. I would assume his garage goes into the 25 to 30+ degree depending on how hot he fires the wood stove.

First try, key on try it no start. Turn key off wait for a bit fire up the moto lights for a bit again no start. Key off, on, head lights on, moto lights on, 2 min timed, push the button and she fired right up. No lose of any electrical information so it was never low in that area. The moto lights never dimmed in the wait either time.

He also mentioned that Shorai is allowing people to trade up to the 21 for just the cost difference. I think he read it on BMW LT Forums but not sure. He is going to find out and do it for sure. I mean it is only 2-3 month old, but to go from the 18 to 21 for just a cost difference I would too!

If I get the info I will post it up if others have or did not.

All in all I will continue to use a AGM for a bit and see how this develops. However it works as all described here, if you get the battery flowing juice and warmed it will fire it up no issues.

 
I called Shorai and manager told me that a new "updated" 18AMP will be sent to me. Once I get the new 18AMP, I have to mail back the old battery, using a Pre-Paid label.

The 18AMP worked perfect on each try. I'm in Chicago, so weather is up and down each day. On the coldest day, it was 18F and the FJR started on first try.

Next day, it was 21F and again on first try.

Today, it's 42F and it started on first try. Manager told me that FJR even if the key is in "off" position, the bike still uses battery power. So, he told me to unplug the Negative Terminal or put the battery in the refrigerator for the winter.

 
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It's $30.00 more for the 21AMP.

I'm worried, because the 21AMP is 3.23 WIDE. I dont know if it will fit.

Well finally got to see my riding partner and his wife last night.

I asked how the battery was doing in his R1200RT. He said he had been waiting on me.

All but 3 weeks with a no start. He lives in a restored log cabin with a mountain stone foundation and garage. It was 23 yesterday when he pushed it out into the cold. Temp gauge on the bike said 34 with a snow flake. I would assume his garage goes into the 25 to 30+ degree depending on how hot he fires the wood stove.

First try, key on try it no start. Turn key off wait for a bit fire up the moto lights for a bit again no start. Key off, on, head lights on, moto lights on, 2 min timed, push the button and she fired right up. No lose of any electrical information so it was never low in that area. The moto lights never dimmed in the wait either time.

He also mentioned that Shorai is allowing people to trade up to the 21 for just the cost difference. I think he read it on BMW LT Forums but not sure. He is going to find out and do it for sure. I mean it is only 2-3 month old, but to go from the 18 to 21 for just a cost difference I would too!

If I get the info I will post it up if others have or did not.

All in all I will continue to use a AGM for a bit and see how this develops. However it works as all described here, if you get the battery flowing juice and warmed it will fire it up no issues.
 
SkooterG,

To be honest, it’s not really necessary, I was just looking for the best out there. I called Shorai and my order has been canceled.

In regards to your original question about the 18AMP getting discharged, I called Shorai and they told me that FJR with the key in the “off” position, will drain the battery, slowly over time. But, they also told me that it should have not drained it that fast. So, they shipped me a new unit 18AMP, which I got week or so ago. This new 18AMP is perfect start in the upper 10’s.

Just called Shorai and upgraded to 21 AMP for $40.00 more.

https://www.shoraipower.com/p-417-lfx21a6-bs12.aspx
Is a 21 amp really necessary?

I have asked before and you have never answered - were you ever able to bring your Shorai back to life after it was discharged?
 
SkooterG,

To be honest, it’s not really necessary, I was just looking for the best out there. I called Shorai and my order has been canceled.

In regards to your original question about the 18AMP getting discharged, I called Shorai and they told me that FJR with the key in the “off” position, will drain the battery, slowly over time. But, they also told me that it should have not drained it that fast. So, they shipped me a new unit 18AMP, which I got week or so ago. This new 18AMP is perfect start in the upper 10’s.

Just called Shorai and upgraded to 21 AMP for $40.00 more.

https://www.shoraipower.com/p-417-lfx21a6-bs12.aspx
Is a 21 amp really necessary?

I have asked before and you have never answered - were you ever able to bring your Shorai back to life after it was discharged?
Thanks. I take it then that you were not able to bring back your original Shorai from the dead then after it was discharged?

 
Shorai told me to put a tricke charger on the 18AMP for 1 day. After one day, I put the battery back in the FJR and it started on first try. But, Shorai, wanted it back and they gave me a new one. What is crazy to me is that I was told by SHorai to put the 18AMP in the refrigerator when storing the bike for the winter.

I still believe in the product, I just feel that the first units has some problems.

One more thing, I was looking back at when I stored the bike for the winter and the Shorai 18AMP was in the FJR from October 3rd, till January 2012. With having the battery plugged in. I has no idea that with the key in “off” position can still drain the battery.

SkooterG,

To be honest, it’s not really necessary, I was just looking for the best out there. I called Shorai and my order has been canceled.

In regards to your original question about the 18AMP getting discharged, I called Shorai and they told me that FJR with the key in the “off” position, will drain the battery, slowly over time. But, they also told me that it should have not drained it that fast. So, they shipped me a new unit 18AMP, which I got week or so ago. This new 18AMP is perfect start in the upper 10’s.

Just called Shorai and upgraded to 21 AMP for $40.00 more.

https://www.shoraipower.com/p-417-lfx21a6-bs12.aspx
Is a 21 amp really necessary?

I have asked before and you have never answered - were you ever able to bring your Shorai back to life after it was discharged?
Thanks. I take it then that you were not able to bring back your original Shorai from the dead then after it was discharged?
 
So my promised free upgraded battery from Shorai arrived thursday evening. It was pinewood derby weekend so I didn't get to it until yesterday afternoon. Had an Oh Sh*t! moment when I thought I really screwed something up when the bike wouldn't start (damn, I can even screw up a battery replacement?). Did a check for fault codes and found one for the ECU connector. Got me thinking, so I pulled the battery again and, yep, forgot to connect up Brodie's ground harness lug. Got that taken care of and all was well.

Wasn't too cold this morning, 34 F, and a bit warmer in the garage. But it seemed to spin better than the old one and started on the first crank. We'll see how it does when it gets really cold. Which won't be for a while as its warming up again this week.

 
What is your drive-ability like after several no starts and then it finally catches. I just shit canned a OEM battery that would start just fine but leave the scooter running like crap. That battery is setting on the bench with 12.9v showing. Would seem to indicate a good battery, but after cranking, it wasn't flowing enough juice to put the ECU in a good place. I have nightmares about waking at the motel on a 18F morning and waiting till noon to get that S.O.B. to fire off. (and then run like shit). One other thing: the last thing I want to do is un-weight the right side of a Gen2. I have to carry a extra 12 pack in the right saddlebag to make the thing go straight, as is.

 
It actually gets stronger with each successive start attempt (assume up to a point, but I never hit it). Then it runs fine once its started. Never had an issue once it fires up.

 
What is your drive-ability like after several no starts and then it finally catches. I just shit canned a OEM battery that would start just fine but leave the scooter running like crap. That battery is setting on the bench with 12.9v showing. Would seem to indicate a good battery, but after cranking, it wasn't flowing enough juice to put the ECU in a good place.
Anything is possible, but that just doesn't make sense. Sounds more like an issue with your charging system, or more than likely, a cable connection, or connector somewhere.

 
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