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It looks like you aren't getting good penetration of the base metal on the square stock Fred. It should be okay for a project like this, but I wouldn't trust that weld to something critical like a trailer hitch or something that needs to hold pressure.

 
It’s a Hobart Handler 140, which is about the most powerful 120V MIG welder around.  That’s what I wanted as the garage at our last home did not have 240V in the garage.  I bought it on sale at Tractor supply for less than $500.  Regular price there is $550.

To move up from that requires going with 240V input power, which I could do now as I do have 240 in my new garage, but I have yet to come across any job that the Handler can’t handle.  It might take multiple passes at thicknesses greater than 1/4”, but I’ve never needed to weld anything that thick.  Although relatively inexpensive, this is a “real” welder and more capable than I am.

My big personal welding breakthrough was buying a shielding gas bottle from Airgas and setting up an account there.   I’m using C25 (25% CO2, 75% Argon) and either Lincoln or Hobart wire.  I started trying to learn using flux core wire.   Flux core is ok strength wise, but makes some really messy welds. 
 

It’s come in handy several times since I bought it.  Had one of my side racks crack on the Suzuki Vstrom.  Was a simple thing to weld it up better than original.  This winter I welded a piece of 1” black steel pipe onto the bottom edge of my 54” snowblower so it wouldn’t dig up all the gravel in my driveway.  And I would have never tackled this wheel upgrade project without the welder.

 
It looks like you aren't getting good penetration of the base metal on the square stock Fred. It should be okay for a project like this, but I wouldn't trust that weld to something critical like a trailer hitch or something that needs to hold pressure.
You’re probably right there, Scott.  I assume that you are talking about the welds joining the round tube legs to the 2” square tube, right?  The round tube is pretty thin and I didn’t want to burn through it.  I cranked it up higher on most of the other welds.

 
You’re probably right there, Scott.  I assume that you are talking about the welds joining the round tube legs to the 2” square tube, right?  The round tube is pretty thin and I didn’t want to burn through it.  I cranked it up higher on most of the other welds.
Yes. You can try concentrating on the square tube to get the base metal flowing, then drag the puddle over onto the thinner metal. It does take practice to get decent at welding thinner stuff to thicker stuff.

That's why I have/use a TIG welder; I can get the base metal flowing without constantly adding filler.

 
2020 (2019?) I had permanent power run to my shop to up it from 1 ea 120v circuit to 2 ea + 1 240v. I could do a Lincoln mig/tig, Which is easier to learn?

My brother kept my Step Dad's welder when he passed away. It was a monster that was all copper windings inside. It was a stick welder about 3' tall and 2' wide. Dave sold it because it was too heavy to move yet again. Said it brought big bucks because it was rated for 100% duty cycles. Something about the newer stuff being rated at 50% or less.

 
I would guess that MIG is easier to learn.  TIG is a two handed process where you have to feed the filler separately.  But I’ve never tried TIG yet myself.

As for duty cycle, I’ve done some long beads and never hit the limit on my little Hobart.  It’s supposed to be 20% at 90A .  I’m sure it becomes an issue if you are welding all day long.  But more than half of most jobs is prep work, so you automatically take time off the machine occasionally.

 
2020 (2019?) I had permanent power run to my shop to up it from 1 ea 120v circuit to 2 ea + 1 240v. I could do a Lincoln mig/tig, Which is easier to learn?

My brother kept my Step Dad's welder when he passed away. It was a monster that was all copper windings inside. It was a stick welder about 3' tall and 2' wide. Dave sold it because it was too heavy to move yet again. Said it brought big bucks because it was rated for 100% duty cycles. Something about the newer stuff being rated at 50% or less.
MIG is easier to pick up than TIG. With MIG it is automatically supplying the filler material. With TIG you have to use your other hand to dip the rod into the puddle to add filler. Also with TIG you have to keep the tip of your electrode very close to the puddle (1/4ish" or less) without touching the puddle. If you do touch the puddle you need to stop and re-grind your electrode to keep from contaminating the weld.

The down side of MIG is that you are constantly getting/adding filler material whether you want it or not.   

 
Are you familiar with the cursive "e" or whip and pause techniques?

A Mig Welding Technique From an Old Timer 
Yes.  Been watching a ton of Weld.com videos.  That guys a pretty good instructor.  But big difference is between knowing what you want and actually doing it. ;)
 

That is a big part of what is better for me with solid wire and shielding gas.  I’m able to see the puddle and move it around, so I’m getting better looking beads.  
 

With flux core wire it was harder for me to do any of that.  And I did have the polarity switched and was only dragging, not trying to push it.

And on another note:  I just dropped a nice 5 1/2 lb chuck roast on the offset.  Going to make some poor man’s brisket for dinner tonight.

 
Got my new gas grill assembled. Was  pretty straight forward, instructions easy to follow...

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 So far, grilled up some chicken breasts, some Jalapeño brats, and some hot dogs.

  Heats up quickly, controls work great. Burners are closer to the food grate than the other grill, so “HI” will work great to sear a steak. 👍👍

 
60 lbs of butts on the grill.  Put on last night at 8 PM at 205 degrees.  11 hours in, entered the stall at 1AM at 140 degrees, currently at 158 degrees.  Starting to come out of the stall  6 hours later.  Probably another 5-7 hours to go.  Going for a temp of 195-201.  The bark is really nice on these.   Smeared with mustard and then dry rubbed.  Using hickory pellets, no injections.

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RecTec app showing the temp of the grill over the last 7ish hours. 

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@Auburn - Boy, that RecTec grille sure holds a steady temp.  Very cool.   I would have to assume it has a PID type controller on it?   My PitBoss has the regular digital controller and it is nowhere near that steady.

 
@Auburn - Boy, that RecTec grille sure holds a steady temp.  Very cool.   I would have to assume it has a PID type controller on it?   My PitBoss has the regular digital controller and it is nowhere near that steady.
Not sure what controller it has, but it does really maintain temp well.  

 

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