Soft Keys?

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I have the Canadian key system too and if you get a hardware store key made and have the bent or broken chip key on the same key ring, the ignition will still detect it.

I haven't broken a key yet but I have a spare hardware store key for the saddlebags and I have tested it in the ignition with the chip/immobilizer key on the ring.

I agree with the OP that the keys are soft as I have had to straighten mine out several times usually from leaving it in the saddlebags and then bumping into it.

YMMV

 
I wonder if chipping those keys weakens them in some way.
I can't imagine how that would be the case. The chip is in the plastic head of the key and not in the bumps and grooves of the key itself.
OK. I didn't know where the chip is.

My locks got very stiff on my bags, and I tried this stuff. It seemed to work well. I picked it up at Home Depot or Lowes I think.

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I've read somewhere not to put graphite or WD40 in the ignition switch. As for the bag locks, I use silicone spray on the locks and moveable parts several times yearly. Here in California the Orchard Supply Hardware stores have chip imbedded key blanks. They are not cheap ($60) and I do not know if they are more durable than the Yamaha issued keys. If I were a Canadian FJR owner of a chip key operated bike, I would simply put a chip key on the same loop as a non chip key as suggested by others.

 
I've read somewhere not to put graphite or WD40 in the ignition switch.
My dealer said the same about WD40 but said they use liquid graphite.

If I were a Canadian FJR owner of a chip key operated bike, I would simply put a chip key on the same loop as a non chip key as suggested by others.
That might be an option, too.

 
Just stop bending the keys.
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I have bent mine a couple of times opening the side cases. The key sticks out enough that it is easy to push on it inadvertently. They bend right back by hand, and when I get home I squeeze it in a bench vise to get it straight enough.

I agree with Mr. Beam when he says that a harder metal for the keys will wear the tumblers on the locks. I'd rather replace a key than a lock.

 
I've read somewhere not to put graphite or WD40 in the ignition switch.
My dealer said the same about WD40 but said they use liquid graphite.

If I were a Canadian FJR owner of a chip key operated bike, I would simply put a chip key on the same loop as a non chip key as suggested by others.
That might be an option, too.
Go back and check Post #4 in this thread where that smart guy Mcatropy has some insight into freeing up the bag lock.

 
Dude, it's operator error.
LOL No, it's not. Even with the saddlebags open and the latch up, the lock barrel mechanism is *very* stiff. Dealership suggested squirting it with powdered graphite that I'm going to try.
I recommend silicon spray lube. It penetrates better than powdered graphite and doesn't leave a goopy gunk collector like WD40 does.

 
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Actually it is a FAQ, and the info is available HERE and HERE. Some time ago there was mention of what may make the ilco key a good blank.
I had two made at a local locksmiths. They are ilco blanks and they are strong enough to use as emergency pry-bars. Cost was $8 for the pair.

 
Shawn, don't listen to those Yankee know-it-alls. The keys for the Canadian FJRs are definitely butter-soft. I've been very careful with mine but they do bend extremely easily. I suspect they're sourced from a different supplier than the US ones and made with a different (cheap) metal. Glad I read this thread though - I've never thought of getting a key made of a proper (strong) metal and just letting the bend chip key (or stub thereof as the case may be) ride shotgun. Seems like an easy solution to me, although it does bulk up the key chain a bit.

 
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I've never had a home, office, automobile, or motorcyle key as soft and as poor quality as the keys provided with my 2014 Yamaha. I ordered good quality blanks, and had them cut, only to find out that, while they work in my ignition and my bags, they don't work on my gas tank. Back to the drawing board- now I'm going to order some from the online place that cuts them based on your master ID and ships them complete.

 
I've never had a home, office, automobile, or motorcyle key as soft and as poor quality as the keys provided with my 2014 Yamaha. I ordered good quality blanks, and had them cut, only to find out that, while they work in my ignition and my bags, they don't work on my gas tank. Back to the drawing board- now I'm going to order some from the online place that cuts them based on your master ID and ships them complete.
You may just try a local locksmith. I had two made and tried them in both bags, gas cap, saddle, and ignition before I left his store.

Edit:

I just checked mine, and it's the Ilco YM63 blank that snackbauer has already recommended in post #8.

 
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Just stop bending the keys.
coolsmiley02.gif

I have bent mine a couple of times opening the side cases. The key sticks out enough that it is easy to push on it inadvertently. They bend right back by hand, and when I get home I squeeze it in a bench vise to get it straight enough.

I agree with Mr. Beam when he says that a harder metal for the keys will wear the tumblers on the locks. I'd rather replace a key than a lock.
This. After many many years of no bent keys my 05 FJR and 09 Versys key can get a bit twisted easily. I'm a bit more deliberate these days.

Re WD40 in locks: I love the stuff for many uses but it does leave a sticky film after drying. Not something I use in locks.

 
Follow up: Someone suggested getting keys made at a locksmith and putting them on the keychain with the bent Yamaha original key (because it has the immobilizer chip embedded in it).

I tried that and, while the key will fit in the ignition, the bike won't turn on using the locksmith's key. I didn't think it would but wanted to try the experiment and update my fellow Canadian FJR riders.
 
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