Some Advice for an Accident victim, please

[rbentnail]

Yep. Me this time. In my pickup thank goodness.

Older (65-ish?) lady blew right threw a stop sign at crossroads, never touched the brakes. Lucky me was in the right place at the right time. Got me in the driver's side front wheel and door, direct hit. Other than a little soreness we both walked away without a scratch. Mine was a 2010 Ford F-150 4x4 extended cab and had the side window canopy & the seat side airbags deploy. If you've never seen these things, goggle them. As fast as it happened, you'd think I would have bounced off the door and smashed the window with my head but I never touched either. Truly amazing. I was also lucky in the she was in a Toyota Corolla so it all happened down low compared to my seat height.

So anywho, now the fun begins. First a few cr@ppy cell phone pics:

the hit






After I got hit I went off the road at the corner of the intersection, over the roadside drainage ditch, and drove the front tow hooks into the ground b/c it was a small uphill . Then the front end launched skyward and the back wheels hit the ditch. Down the front goes and up with the rear. YeeHaw!!



I lasted the full 8 seconds till the bell sounded and come to rest on an uphill parking lot about 25 feet from the front steps of a big brick church. I think if the deep ditch had not been there I prolly would have plowed right into it.

Last pic, and it's hard to see, but on the passenger side from the door handles up, he doors are bent out. Yeah, it was quite a bang.





So now I'm looking for some real world advice. It's still really early in the process. The truck made it to the repair shop today for evaluation. The insurance adjuster hasn't been there. The highway patrol issued her a citation so her insurance company issued a claim number that day. I also had a rental car by end-0'-business that day. So, other than the fact that I'm perfectly fine, didn't miss work and ain't signing nothing has does this work? I don't want to be a PITA but I want this to move along and get over with.

 

[Redfish Hunter]

Looks to me like your jump through the ditch may have totaled your truck. The accident report is what the insurance companies go by when paying out, assuming you don't live in a "No Fault" state. Each insurance company has their own policy and I am sure things vary from state to state.

I had a similar situation almost a year ago. Girl ran the red light at 3:45 AM, I was on my way to work, she was coming home from Da Club. My 4wd diesel GMC knocked her little car spinning like a kicked soccer ball. Since it was cold and windy outside and she was wearing almost nothing I put her in the cab of my truck. As a show of gratitude she lied to the State Trooper and said I ran the light. Strangely, the traffic cameras told a different story.

Since I needed to get things going I filed a claim with my insurance company, they paid for everything, minus my deductible. They gave me options as to where I wanted it fixed. I could bring it wherever I wanted but if I used one of their preferred body shops the repairs would be guaranteed for the life of the truck. I got great results and lots of free advice from my insurance company. When the accident report finally came out I contacted the other insurance company and over 6 months later they sent me a check for my deductible.

I use Progressive by the way and they were fantastic.

 

[lonerider]

Damn glad you weren't hurt or worse. Good thing you weren't on the bike for that one. If they don't total the truck, it might be difficult getting the brown stain off the driver's seat. Good luck with the settlement.

 

[garyahouse]

Better start shopping for your new truck. They're gonna total it.

Gary

darksider #44

 

[rbentnail]

Shopping is easy, but please let me clarify:

- I've never been in this situation before.

- how exactly is a vehicle replaced by an insurance company?

- who pays the balance of the loan? As in do I get a check, half of which pays the balance and I'm left walkin'?

- how do I know a "good" deal, or even a satisfactory one, has been offered?

- my insurance company says, "DO NOT file a claim with us." Her fault, her claim. Claim with us and your rates WILL go up even if she is found in court to be at fault (State Farm).

I understand that details vary from state to state but get the idea? I am completely ignorant in this. Nada, zip, zilch experience whatsoever. Again, shopping is easy but I'm a workin' slob and all I have is what I have. So, real world advice of what to do, who does what, how the process works, etc. would be greatly appreciated. My insurance office won't even answer my pleas for advice. I've already made a public spectacle of myself there....

 

[Geezer]

Assuming the vehicle is totaled, you will have to negotiate with the paying insurance company to get the most you can for your vehicle. You can argue that your truck was in immaculate condition and therefore worth more than typical book value. Do not accept a settlement until you are satisfied with the amount. Depending on state law and other factors, the insurance company may or may not pay the lien holder directly. One problem that may come as a surprise is that with the typical auto loan being 60 months, it is not unusual for an owner to owe more on the vehicle than it is actually worth at some point during those 5 years.

 

[rbentnail]

Assuming the vehicle is totaled, you will have to negotiate with the paying insurance company to get the most you can for your vehicle. You can argue that your truck was in immaculate condition and therefore worth more than typical book value. Do not accept a settlement until you are satisfied with the amount. Depending on state law and other factors, the insurance company may or may not pay the lien holder directly. One problem that may come as a surprise is that with the typical auto loan being 60 months, it is not unusual for an owner to owe more on the vehicle than it is actually worth at some point during those 5 years.

I guess the worst part is the waiting. I'm not the waiting sort- if it needs doin' then git 'er dun. I'm really impatient that way and not getting any answers from people who do this for a living, and I pay them out of my pocket for it, isn't helping.

I've done some searching and keep good records about values, payments, etc. It is (maybe was) a 2010 F-150 XLT 4x4 ExtendedCab. Lots and lots of nice features on it- comfort, hauling and towing wise. Current KBB retail value (via neenerweb) of the truck is about $24K, NADA about the same $24.5K. Still quite a value for 3 yrs, 44.5K miles, eh? And it was immaculate. And I have detailed records of everything done, every component (even bulbs, wipers, etc.) replaced. Loan balance about $13.5K.

Everyone says totaled, "let's see, 2 airbags @ $1500 ea. plus seat backs plus 2 airbags @ $2000 plus headliner equals right of the bat about $10K. Totaled." Meaning what, "here's your check, that's all we'll give you. Turn in the rental car, we ain't payin' no more on it." I hate not knowing ****, especially **** like where I imagine folks meeting secretly to devise ways to screw me over. Anyone here do insurance "adjusting" for a living? The job title even sounds Snidely Whiplash deviously diabolical, doesn't it? Wringing miserly hands and everything

.......

 

[rbentnail]

Then there's the extra stuff like spray-in bed liner, toolboxes, etc., accessories I paid for and added. Hell, the tires only had aboot 15K miles on them. Shoulda lasted another 2 yrs, so I'm out that $1400. WTF! How's that work? I think I still got some Seagram's VO from '97 in the cabinet........

 

[TomInPA]

Assuming the vehicle is totaled, you will have to negotiate with the paying insurance company to get the most you can for your vehicle. You can argue that your truck was in immaculate condition and therefore worth more than typical book value. Do not accept a settlement until you are satisfied with the amount. Depending on state law and other factors, the insurance company may or may not pay the lien holder directly. One problem that may come as a surprise is that with the typical auto loan being 60 months, it is not unusual for an owner to owe more on the vehicle than it is actually worth at some point during those 5 years.

You're going to like this...the insurance company will give you the full retail value (median unnegotiated list price) of your vehicle based on three comparable (make, model, mileage) of vehicles available at dealerships. I unfortunately had a similar experience with a car totaled by a daughter's roommate. I was also T-boned at an intersection by an Asian woman married to a Honda executive...she didn't speak english and ran the red light.

In each case, I got more for the car than I paid, and it didn't affect my rates. You should be able to replace your vehicle at its full retail (list) value, or look for one that is a better deal through a private party deal. You will receive a check upfront and no questions will be asked how you use it. You have the right to challenge the basis of the estimate and point out improvements, accessories and condition that should make the value higher. Within reason, it's not a tough negotiation, especially if you can back it up with receipts.

Don't be too quick to dismiss the possibility you have suffered an injury or lost work or other loss. You took a big hit. Talk with your doctor and take a few days to assess your condition.

 

[Old Guy]

I've been paid, by insurance, for vehicles before, and I used Kelly Blue Book for full retail -- https://www.kbb.com/

NADA may be another choice https://www.nada.com.

These are the established authorities in the industry and you should be able to get retail because you'll be replacing it at retail.

We also had new tires on our vehicle, and we got an additional amount for the tires.

As you mentioned, the additional accessories will need to be valuated as well.

We actually got a little more than retail for our car. I suspect, since I wasn't claiming injury, that they were wanting our signatures on a settlement. You sort of hold all the cards in this.

Best of luck to you.

 

[gixxerjasen]

Don't accept the first offer. Ask for the CCC report and make sure the comparables on the report compare to your truck and are from your market. There's a radius they have to use. If they don't have good comparables on there you can demand an independent valuation of your truck on their dime. Do some reading on this. They will lowball you on their offer and will jump for joy when you take it. Remember, it's a negotiation process. I think they offered me $2500 for my FZ1 and I got them up to about $3700 when we got done. There's lots of websites with reading on how to handle all of this and get what you deserve, sit down with a drink and a notepad and start reading. The above is just the first steps and the basics.

 

[Geezer]

The reason your truck may be a total is that little roller coaster ride in the grass. There will most likely be frame damage.

If it is not a total then you want to take it to the repair shop of your choice, the one where the shop wants to satisfy you rather than the shop who tries to appease the insurance company.

 

[garyahouse]

One of the things that really upsets me concerning insurance companies: you're probably going to find out that the insurance co doesn't give a hoot about how much you took care of your truck or how many receipts and records you have. I really hope I'm wrong about this, but that's been my experience. Hopefully you'll be luckier than I was.

They look at three things: factory equipment, year, and miles. And unfortunately from what I've seen, that is all they care about.

They'll smile at you while you describe how you pampered your baby, and all the goodies you had on it, but if you're hoping to recoup on all the little extras you've put your time and money in... I think you'll be disappointed in the offer they make.

I really hope they surprise you with a great offer, but I have my doubts about that.

Concerning the debt you owe on the truck, I'd be willing to bet that you don't get a dime until they get all of their money first.

Good luck my friend.

Gary

 

[rbentnail]

. Ask for the CCC report and make sure the comparables on the report compare to your truck and are from your market.

Ok, but did you miss the part when I wrote that I'm toatally ignorant in this matter?

New rule- no acronyms. WTF is a CCC report?

 

[rbentnail]

Concerning the debt you owe on the truck, I'd be willing to bet that you don't get a dime until they get all of their money first.

This, I think, is one of my big questions. Assuming a total loss, do I get a check then pay off the original loan (title lien holder)? After all, the insurance company would just be buying the vehicle from me just as any individual would, right? I would still have to pay off the loan to get the title to transfer it to the new purchaser, right? Or do I get a settled value minus the loan balance and they pay the loan? I'm thinking prolly a toss up, done different ways in different places/by different companies. Yet another wait and see to drive me crazy.

And "replacing my vehicle at full retail value" I'm thinking is not an option. Roughly half of the "retail value" isn't mine, it's the lien holder's, right?

I really appreciate all the helpful comments and advice. I'm calming down I think and am digging out all my "stuff": original purchase contract and financing, payment records, accessory and maintenance receipts, etc. Maybe it'll all help in the long run, maybe not, but it certainly can't hurt, eh?

[edit: never mind this part, I got it...].

 

[HotRodZilla]

So, if they decide the final payout value of your truck is 24k and you still owe 13k, they will give you a check for 11k.

The insurance company basically buys the truck, pays it off and gives you the difference. You don't get a replacement truck, but a down payment for whatever you're gonna replace it with. Most times it's kind of a hose. Work them for every dime you can because as saidbbefore, they WILL lowball you.

I don't think your gap insurance will come into play here. Gap insurance is meant to cover the gap when you owe 25k on your vehicle, but it's only worth $15k. Upsidedown basically. Since you're not upsidedown, it probably won't pay out.

However, if you have extended warranty on your truck, make sure you see your dealer or finance company and get the unused prorated balance refunded.

I have State Farm but I would walk in and tell my agent to suck it if they treated me the way you say you have been treated. Your rates cannot be raised if it was not your fault. You may be responsible for the deductible, but your uninsured motorists would cover it IF she didn't have ins or it was a hit and run. Since she's insured, they'll rightfully direct you to her company, but SF should be able to help you navigate all this.

If they refuse, cancel them.

 

[Greg 03]

Being a traffic cop who works crashes every single day I find it odd that your agent would say not to file with them. So they're assuming that the adjuster for the other company will give you a fair value on your truck? Seems fishy to me... I would make my agent earn the ridiculous amount of money you pay their company! If they bumped your rates for a non-fault crash... kick 'em to the curb and shop around!

 

[MrM0t0]

For what it's worth, many insurance companies are the spawn of Satan, and I've heard particularly evil things about State Farm. Examples here: https://www.ripoffreport.com/reports/directory/state-farm-insurance.

 

[08FJR4ME]

Good thing you are in a Ford. Built Tough!!! I would dump your insurance company after getting a response like that.

Good luck,

Dave