Spongy rear brake

[Bounce]

Speed bleeders and "old school" pump-and-hold methods are really easy if you have an extra set of hands. You could spawn some kids but then they outgrow their desire to help and you have to start over again. I've found a MityVac works very well for 1-up work on 2 and 4 wheelers. The last small-ish MityVac I had died and I had a store credit at Sears, so got this variation from the MityVac people.

Overkill? Sure! But, at about 3 gallons, it works and you never have to drain out the catch can during a project.

 

[HotRodZilla]

Speed bleeders and "old school" pump-and-hold methods are really easy if you have an extra set of hands. You could spawn some kids but then they outgrow their desire to help and you have to start over again. I've found a MityVac works very well for 1-up work on 2 and 4 wheelers. The last small-ish MityVac I had died and I had a store credit at Sears, so got this variation from the MityVac people.

Overkill? Sure! But, at about 3 gallons, it works and you never have to drain out the catch can during a project.

Maybe with a car and Speedbleeders you need a second set of hands, but on the bikes, absolutely not. One man brake bleeds are a breeze. It takes more time to remove the right side cover to access the rear reservoir than it takes to do the actual bleeding.

 

[Bounce]

But...

But...

TOOOOOOLS!

 

[Farmer]

I checked the spacers on the rear tire, if it's the same as a Gen. 1 ABS, then everything is OK from that standpoint. Maybe I'm doing something wrong with how I bleed the brakes. My procedure is to pump the pedal a few times, then hold it down and open the bleed valve for a couple of seconds, close the valve and let up on the pedal. Should I be doing something different? I did remove the old fluid with a syringe and replace with new Dot 4 before I started. Thanks.

 

[08FJR4ME]

The front is linked also. The lower bleeder on the right side will have to be done also.

 

[Farmer]

The front is linked also. The lower bleeder on the right side will have to be done also.

I did the front brake first and then moved to the rear brake.

 

[mferriter]

My rear pedal seems to be sticking a bit. Brakes are not soft, but pedal doesn't return all the way back up and sometimes the brake light stays on.

Like I said the brakes are firm, but the pedal seems to stick a bit. Any easy way to clean off the brake lever piston mechanism?

 

[Bounce]

When was the last time you did PM?

https://www.fjrtech.net/getdbitem.cfm?item=15

 

[AVGeek]

The front is linked also. The lower bleeder on the right side will have to be done also.

I did the front brake first and then moved to the rear brake.

Try rear first, then front.

 

[Queensland Ken]

but the pedal seems to stick a bit

Do clean up and lube the brake arm pivot.

This has happened to a few members worldwide.

 

[08FJR4ME]

The front is linked also. The lower bleeder on the right side will have to be done also.

I did the front brake first and then moved to the rear brake.

Have you checked the pads?

Are they neer the end of there wear?

Have you taken the caliper off and cleaned it all up?

 

[Fred W]

My rear pedal seems to be sticking a bit. Brakes are not soft, but pedal doesn't return all the way back up and sometimes the brake light stays on.
Like I said the brakes are firm, but the pedal seems to stick a bit. Any easy way to clean off the brake lever piston mechanism?

VERY common problem

To clean it you really need to remove it, which isn't as hard as it might seem at first glance. The last time it was time to grease my brake pivot I installed a zerk fitting. If you keep the shaft well lubed all of the time you probably won't need to clean it up so often.

 

[900gc]

Not much left to add to this thread except that IMO, Speed Bleeders are the nuts. I also have a Mighty Vac but the SB's cut the set time up to basically zero (once installed) and make the process as simple as possible.