Stator coupler Gen2?

[bobbyr]

Replacing my crankcase cover, removing it then removing the stator and putting on the new cover. I can see that uncoupling the stator coupler would allow me to do all that good stuff at my workbench. Where is the damn coupler and how does one (best) get to it? I cannot see it or feel it and its cable goes inside the fairing and it doesn't seem to want to come out to get uncoupled.

TIA Bobby

 

[Donal]

Not really sure if there is a coupler. My guess is that it goes directly to the RR. On my 2009 the RR is mounted just forward of the rear shock. You should be able to access the connections form the left hand side.

 

[mcatrophy]

The only coupler is the grey one on the RR. I used an old wooden chair as a workbench beside the bike.

 

[bobbyr]

The only coupler is the grey one on the RR. I used an old wooden chair as a workbench beside the bike.

The shop manual shows a coupler on the end of the stator assy and says "unplug" but it doesn't say where it lies. Not a bad idea with the chair. Trying to avoid pulling the tank so that might suffice. Tight in there.

 

[mcatrophy]

The only coupler is the grey one on the RR. I used an old wooden chair as a workbench beside the bike.

The shop manual shows a coupler on the end of the stator assy and says "unplug" but it doesn't say where it lies. Not a bad idea with the chair. Trying to avoid pulling the tank so that might suffice. Tight in there.

The Haynes manual does at least show a photograph of the connector on the RR. I suspect, even if you could undo it, feeding the wires through would not be easy.

 

[bobbyr]

The only coupler is the grey one on the RR. I used an old wooden chair as a workbench beside the bike.

The shop manual shows a coupler on the end of the stator assy and says "unplug" but it doesn't say where it lies. Not a bad idea with the chair. Trying to avoid pulling the tank so that might suffice. Tight in there.

The Haynes manual does at least show a photograph of the connector on the RR. I suspect, even if you could undo it, feeding the wires through would not be easy.

RR? Not familiar with that term. It's pretty tight fishing an angled coupler thru that channel. Have a chair/table setup to hold the cover, haven't taken the stator out of the cover yet. 30 ft/lbs of torque on a T30 out/in using a torque wrench on a rounded housing lying on a table will be an exercise in leverage! Should be able to impact it out (if the T30 doesn't self destruct) but it will take a torque wrench to get it in properly. Sigh.

 

[mcatrophy]

...RR? Not familiar with that term. It's pretty tight fishing an angled coupler thru that channel. Have a chair/table setup to hold the cover, haven't taken the stator out of the cover yet. 30 ft/lbs of torque on a T30 out/in using a torque wrench on a rounded housing lying on a table will be an exercise in leverage! Should be able to impact it out (if the T30 doesn't self destruct) but it will take a torque wrench to get it in properly. Sigh.

RR: In this context, Rectifier/Regulator.

As for the torque, to undo them I used a do-it-yourself impact wrench. Put a good quality hex key in the bolt head and tapped the arm with a hammer. Needs holding into the screw head to prevent it skewing out, and needs reseating between taps, the inertia of the stator is sufficient to stop the cover from moving much. Take your time, don't over-hit it, It will come. Of course, a proper impact wrench will do it much more easily.

Doing up, I didn't use a torque wrench, simply did the screws up until I felt they were tight enough. As far as I remember, I had a cloth on the seat of the chair, the new cover lying on it, and I more-or-less sat facing the back of the chair so my thighs were resting on the edges of the cover to stop it spinning. Used a hex screw driver bit and a socket extension to put the handle high enough to get the leverage. Must have looked very strange to any casual observer.

The stator certainly stayed in for as long as I had the bike.

Picture below taken just after I'd pulled the cover, I didn't take any during the replacement (I was still far too angry with myself for needing to do this is the first place

). Note the gearwheel is the wrong way round, put there just to keep it clean.

(Click on image for larger view)

 

[bobbyr]

...RR? Not familiar with that term. It's pretty tight fishing an angled coupler thru that channel. Have a chair/table setup to hold the cover, haven't taken the stator out of the cover yet. 30 ft/lbs of torque on a T30 out/in using a torque wrench on a rounded housing lying on a table will be an exercise in leverage! Should be able to impact it out (if the T30 doesn't self destruct) but it will take a torque wrench to get it in properly. Sigh.

RR: In this context, Rectifier/Regulator.

As for the torque, to undo them I used a do-it-yourself impact wrench. Put a good quality hex key in the bolt head and tapped the arm with a hammer. Needs holding into the screw head to prevent it skewing out, and needs reseating between taps, the inertia of the stator is sufficient to stop the cover from moving much. Take your time, don't over-hit it, It will come. Of course, a proper impact wrench will do it much more easily.

Doing up, I didn't use a torque wrench, simply did the screws up until I felt they were tight enough. As far as I remember, I had a cloth on the seat of the chair, the new cover lying on it, and I more-or-less sat facing the back of the chair so my thighs were resting on the edges of the cover to stop it spinning. Used a hex screw driver bit and a socket extension to put the handle high enough to get the leverage. Must have looked very strange to any casual observer.

The stator certainly stayed in for as long as I had the bike.

Picture below taken just after I'd pulled the cover, I didn't take any during the replacement (I was still far too angry with myself for needing to do this is the first place :banghead: ). Note the gearwheel is the wrong way round, put there just to keep it clean.

(Click on image for larger view)

Yeah that was what I was planning. Or something like it, maybe a second set of hands holding that puppy down. And red locktight right? Good hearing she stayed together at less than 30ft/lbs of torque. And it looks to me that IS the right side out for the gear, otherwise she won't mesh with her friends. Had the same issue since that gear came tumbling out when I wrestled the cover free of the magnetic pull of the stator. Only fits one way. Taking MUCH longer than I budgeted for. I may still pull the tank, heat cover etc to unclip that coupler. If I stand on one leg, use a bright led light source and close one eye I can just see the edge of it (I think). White and about 6" inside the damn frame spars. Only from above.

 

[mcatrophy]

...And red locktight right? Good hearing she stayed together at less than 30ft/lbs of torque. And it looks to me that IS the right side out for the gear, otherwise she won't mesh with her friends. Had the same issue since that gear came tumbling out when I wrestled the cover free of the magnetic pull of the stator. Only fits one way. Taking MUCH longer than I budgeted for. I may still pull the tank, heat cover etc to unclip that coupler. If I stand on one leg, use a bright led light source and close one eye I can just see the edge of it (I think). White and about 6" inside the damn frame spars. Only from above.

I didn't use Loctite but that's because I didn't have any and I'm pretty sure of my tightening "feel". In no way is that a recommendation not to use Loctite.

As for the torque, I can't tell you what I did mine to, it might have been less than 30, it might have been more. I do have a well practised feel for doing up threads, the spin before clamping, the increase in torque as the parts are pulled together, the firming up as it gets tight, and the final beginning of stretching the bolt or compressing the parts.

There are different feels depending on the materials of the screw, the thread, the parts, any washers, whether they are oily/greasy, or - if I'm doing shoddy work - dirty (rare for me, except perhaps on my lawn mower).

Even using a Nylock nut, you can still recognise these stages.

I can also feel when a thread starts to strip (though not experienced that recently

, touching wood).

The RR connector is a pain to get your fingers to, and even then you have to know how to release its locking mechanism (every connector seems to be different). That's why I used the chair. My Better Half thought it was so I could have a snooze

.

 

[mcatrophy]

Just checked the '06 workshop manual. Those three stator screws are quoted at 7.2 ft/lbs, don't know where the figure of 30 came from.

Four times over-torque would certainly strip the threads.

 

[bobbyr]

Just checked the '06 workshop manual. Those three stator screws are quoted at 7.2 ft/lbs, don't know where the figure of 30 came from.
Four times over-torque would certainly strip the threads.

Mine says 30ft/lbs and my right angle 1/4 hex impact driver rated to 22ft/lb wouldn't budge them. I will double check the specs but the case housing screws spec are 10.5 and they all spun off with a T handle. The Philips screw that holds the stator wire to the housing is something like 7.2. Check double check. Them puppies are tight.

 

[Donal]

If you need to get serious with the stator retaining bolts I would just cut the wires at a convenient place, remove the stator cover to a suitable work place and do what you need to in comfort.

Just re-connect the wires using in-line crimps and a good quality, ratcheting crimp tool. There is no need to worry about which wire you connect to which.

Reconnection would be easier with the cut 'outside' the stator cover.

To make it all a bit neater - 'stagger' the cuts so when you install the crimps they will lie closer and not in a big bunch.

Also recommend you use heat shrink to keep it all looking good...........

One other comment - for small fittings that need impact I prefer to use a hand impact driver tool. You can give it a sharp hit but control/minimise the amount of torque applied, so less chance of stripping anything.

Several videos here

 

[ionbeam]

Mine says 30ft/lbs and my right angle 1/4 hex impact driver rated to 22ft/lb wouldn't budge them. I will double check the specs but the case housing screws spec are 10.5 and they all spun off with a T handle. The Philips screw that holds the stator wire to the housing is something like 7.2. Check double check. Them puppies are tight.

"Break-away" bolt torque is a different animal from tighten down torque. Break-away torque will typically be much greater than tighten torque, it's not surprising that it took so much torque to break them free. Oh, that LT that the FSM calls for is Loctite which I suspect would also increase break-away torque

FWIW, my Gen I and Gen II service manuals calls for 7.2 ft/lb and Loctite.

My pneumatic impact wrench had no problem loosening any of the fasteners

Be careful with the little bracket that holds down the stator wires, it has to be 90°, if it is slightly bent up this will happen to the rotor:

This is what I found when I went to replace the OEM stator with a high output stator, it came from the factory with the bracket slightly bent and lathed this nice groove into the rotor. The bracket is soft and bends very easily as you tighten down the screw. The HO stator was a bad idea, it did provide ~100 watts more for my watt challenged Gen I but it also quickly went Chernobyl.

 

[bobbyr]

Just checked the '06 workshop manual. Those three stator screws are quoted at 7.2 ft/lbs, don't know where the figure of 30 came from.
Four times over-torque would certainly strip the threads.

On further perusing of the manual early this am (couldn't sleep over it) you are spot on. I also am not sure where the 30 came from (investigating). And yes, the "breakaway torque" stemming from (doubtless) loctktite adhesion could account for why she wouldn't break loose with the 22ft/lb my little 12v cordless impact driver provides. 7.2 is much less daunting than 30. Have a T30 3/8 impact socket coming tomorrow and will use my pneumatic impact to bust it loose and 3/8 torque wrench to set it to 7+ and red locktite.. I'm a "measure thrice cut once" kind of guy so i probably would have caught it once I had the screw off and found out what size it was and compared that to the nominal torque spec for that screw. I stand corrected, thanks. Have found numerous typos in my 2005 service manual re: torque specs. Sigh.