Steering Stabilizer

[twowheelnut]

Howie, get back on your meds and mellow out, man. It's the stitches makin' you wobble. Dampen that!

:****:

 

[RadioHowie]

Howie, get back on your meds and mellow out, man. It's the stitches makin' you wobble. Dampen that!
:****:

y'know, it ain't that skinny bastiche in your avatar that scares me...

it's the grey-haired old porker in your profile that gives me the willies.



BTW, had to cut back on the meds. Was skeert of getting a "dependancy". h34r:

 

[sparky3008]

Can ya smell the smugness in this thread?
All you "my FJR is perfect" guys crack me up, telling us the Feej don't need no steering damper, yet you spend thousands on other mods to make it "just right!"

Unfortunately, I didn't get the "perfect" FJR that you guys did. I'm one of the 1 out of 100 FJR pilots whose bike wobbles at certain speeds.

As I've written on this subject in other threads, I've had the opportunity to ride 4 different FJRs since I started my search to buy one a year ago. Every one of those four, an '03, two '05s, and the '04 I eventually made my own, experienced a front wheel/fork assembly "oscillation" around 48-50mph.

So while you guys with the "perfect" FJRs can unequivocally state that the FJR doesn't need a steering damper, I can unequivocally state that 100% of all FJRs I've ever driven indeed DO need steering dampers.

Now as to MY FJR -- 3 different brands of tires...correctly torqued steering head bearings...a multitude of different suspension settings. It wobbles. Plain and simple. Bags or not. Full tank or not. Pick your air pressure. Sit up close to the tank. Slide back from the tank. Wear a copper bracelet and power-crystal necklace. It wobbles. Not enough to throw the bike into a tank slapper, but a steering damper would get MY FJR closer to the smug perfection that you jackholes enjoy. Maybe 1 out of every 100 built gets a nice twist in the frame before delivery.

Of course, I think those of you putting satellite radios on YOUR FJRs are just a bunch of spoiled *******.

There's your warthog *******.

:****:

Who the **** drives at 48-50. Speed the **** up or get another bike.

What did everyone take a sad/mad pill?
If you want my justification, call it want!

Here is the current want list [note list will be modified as needed]:

1) install switched plug for Widder's : to be done prior to next mtn ride [Aug 27]

2) install hand guards like WC's site : same as above

3) purchase and install a new Russell seat : Dec2006/Jan2007

4) purchase and install a rear rack, likely Gerauld's ['06A's is useless] : by spring '07 riding season

5) purchase, install and reset-up bike Ohlin rear shock : after #3 [dollar affected]

6) steering damper : after #3 and maybe seeing what #4 does for bike [dollar affected]

7) review aftermarket aux lights and brackets : ???

most of my bike wants [not needs] will be meet in the '06A modified as above [maybe a comm system if I go to AK with someone next year].

I have just about completed setting up my bike. It has no mechanical issues. On pavement the front end is planted except for a hint of weave on decel, rear end is close but a little harsh and would greatly benefit from a better shock. I have done several multi-mile 130+ runs [rider selected limit, not bike's] and believe in the bike now [not so at first]. On dirt the front end in twitchy and the steering damper should help.

That said, it could be better IMO.

Lets see what else; **** on a warthog please see link

ride safe

rublenoon

Suspension is no doubt a need and requirement on the fjr or any production bike for that matter for anyone over 150lbs. Dirt riding, wow. My gsxr has a damper and it still rides like **** on gravel...

 

[RadioHowie]

My gsxr...rides like ****...

It's all in the context. :lol:

 

[rublenoon]

"Dirt riding, wow. My gsxr has a damper and it still rides like **** on gravel..."

My bad, "dirt" should have been "hardpan & gravel", ie., Colorado county roads. Mostly 5 to 30 miles one way to visit family or a good fishing hole &/or a beautiful mtn spot. The FJR is much less stable on these roads than the '03 ST1100 was.

Any gravel thicker than 2 inches and the FJR is real wild ride as are gravel patches longer than two bike lengths. No drops to date, but it is only a matter of time and where [only have had it for 8 weeks and 3K miles].

I would NOT try the FJR on a true dirt road. I gave up the real dirt about 15 years ago [even braced my knees would not work after the first day]. I do miss the dirt. I tried the big Buell & KTM adventure bikes [too heavy for real dirt], but selected the FJR as most of my riding is pavement.

ride safe

rublenoon

 

[sparky3008]

"Dirt riding, wow. My gsxr has a damper and it still rides like **** on gravel..."
My bad, "dirt" should have been "hardpan & gravel", ie., Colorado county roads. Mostly 5 to 30 miles one way to visit family or a good fishing hole &/or a beautiful mtn spot. The FJR is much less stable on these roads than the '03 ST1100 was.

Any gravel thicker than 2 inches and the FJR is real wild ride as are gravel patches longer than two bike lengths. No drops to date, but it is only a matter of time and where [only have had it for 8 weeks and 3K miles].

I would NOT try the FJR on a true dirt road. I gave up the real dirt about 15 years ago [even braced my knees would not work after the first day]. I do miss the dirt. I tried the big Buell & KTM adventure bikes [too heavy for real dirt], but selected the FJR as most of my riding is pavement.

ride safe

rublenoon

Many guys on here talk about riding gravel roads. Some of the guys with more of a dirt bike racing back ground talk about how to do it to make it smoother. A little more speed to float over the bumps instead of slow and hitting everyone kind of like the pro dirt racers do in the woops is one way.

Getting back onto the back seat and keeping the front end light can help.

The biggest issue is the front end weight of the fjr even compared to the st with the battery and such up front it carries more on the front wheel.

I still don't know that a steering damper will help unless turned up really stiff and then you would have to adjust it once back on a regular road or you wouldn't like it there.

I don't know it just sounds like another band aid for a bike that really is not a gravel bike...

Maybe one of the GS BMW's would be better suited .

Also you may find after you get the suspension done for your weight etc it will help a lot with the gravel roads you ride. Have you tried the rebound setting on the front suspension at all to keep the front wheel down on the ground more? It may not be returning to the ground fast enough after hitting a bump.

My gsxr...rides like ****...

It's all in the context. :lol:

I consider the source

 

[RadioHowie]

I don't know it just sounds like another band aid for a bike that really is not a gravel bike...

Kinda like adding aux fuel tanks, LD seats, cruise controls, seat and hand warmers, auxiliary lights, SV hand protectors,power outlets, bigger windshields, smaller windshields, satellite radios, intercom units, higher output alternators, bar risers, fork braces, top-boxes, wave rotors, Galfer/Spiegler brake lines and GPS units are even MORE band aids for a bike that really is not a touring bike...

 

[sparky3008]

I don't know it just sounds like another band aid for a bike that really is not a gravel bike...

Kinda like adding aux fuel tanks, LD seats, cruise controls, seat and hand warmers, auxiliary lights, SV hand protectors,power outlets, bigger windshields, smaller windshields, satellite radios, intercom units, higher output alternators, bar risers, fork braces, top-boxes, wave rotors, Galfer/Spiegler brake lines and GPS units are even MORE band aids for a bike that really is not a touring bike...

No my point was more that a stabilizer is not for going over gravel. Kind of like a GPS isn't for listening to music.

Many pro dirt bike guys don't even use them going over woops and such.

For a dirt bike they are more for obsticles that jerk the wheel from right to left like rocks on powerlines.

In this case as normal side to side movement a stabilizer does almost nothing it takes a hard quick jerk for it to engage.

At high speed on a sport bike it is to prevent what might be catastrophic and resulting in a tank slapper.

Neither of these is what I would describe when going over gravel and my point that it may do nothing but be a 3 or 4 hundred dollar piece of bling...

Also why I suggested the suspension might do more for what he is trying to do...

Or riding technique.

I just thought of this, now Scotts have a slow speed damper switch for slow movements side to side.

Now I dont use this on my dirt bike as what I want it for is fast speed hard jerks like rocks, or my head.

Anyway a slow speed might help on gravel roads and such but I would think it would hurt everywhere else such as in parking lots and such so you would have to adjust it at the gravel road and then turn the knob when you get past it.

This just might work if you want to fuss with it each time...

Mounting one shouldn't be that hard or adapting one from some other bike, the bolt on kind or the weld on.

Personally I would start with a good suspension setup first and go from there...

Side note: Gravel 2 inchs deep sounds like a front wheel pushing to me in the gravel and just don't know that a damper will help here. Getting it up as in lighter and faster may help more. With you on the pegs, butt in the air like a dirt bike may prove helpful...

 

[rublenoon]

Also why I suggested the suspension might do more for what he is trying to do...Or riding technique.

I have the bike set-up for pavement and relative to my weight [too much] and to the limit of the parts. In fact the front end is too hard and too much rebound for hardpan & gravel roads. It want to "plow in" in deeper gravel. The rear is at or near its limit per the above goal.

I want/hope the damper to keep a tank slapper down when on poor hardpan & gravel [pot holes and rocks] and to do "centering" on pavement. I'm told Scotts can be set/adjusted for to meet these schemes, if not then I'll pass on a damper.

I guess in todays speciality bike world, multi-use riding is being done less and less. Too bad, there are many great places missed by too many by avoiding such roads. I plan to keep riding them.

Regarding my hardpan & gravel riding technique : riding the back seat helps, crouch riding the pegs help more, best pace for light gravel is about 40 MPH and the next best pace is about 15 mph, grader washboards are a pleasant shake @ either speed. I can not bring myself to do the deep gravel sections above walking speed and with an outrigger style. Your x-ray is enough warning :dribble: that I too old for more speed.

rublenoon

 

[sparky3008]

Also why I suggested the suspension might do more for what he is trying to do...Or riding technique.

It want to "plow in" in deeper gravel.

I want/hope the damper to keep a tank slapper down when on poor hardpan & gravel [pot holes and rocks] and to do "centering" on pavement. I'm told Scotts can be set/adjusted for to meet these schemes, if not then I'll pass on a damper.

rublenoon

Plowing I think only riding style will help here, just not a function of a damper.

Pot holes, avoid them is the better option, don't want a bent rim or flat tire.

Rocks, yes a damper will help here for sure.

Do "centering" on pavement. This is where I am not sure why you have a problem. I don't think you are suggesting you have the 48-50mph problem as I think I can tell you would just go faster. I don't ever ride at this speed myself.

Second if you are doing 130 and having a shake I would be very surprised it wasn't a tire issue. Mine had no weights on the front wheel when I bought it and at 100 would start to shake. Low psi also contributed to early tire failure and I replaced with Pilot Roads. New tires, proper air, balanced and as fast as I ever went it was great. If you don't feel you have this or some type of mechanical issue a damper may help but I highly doubt on a fjr you will suffer a tank slapper. The geometry of this bike is setup as such that it handles great at speed and is pretty good at cornering. A compromise between the 2.

Rerouting that heavy boat anchor of a battery up front might help. Some have done it to help with cornering and the end the one guy I know who did it just ended up buying an st and was happier.

Good Luck and I sincerely hope the Damper does what you need it to. It sounds like you have your mind made up...

 

[RadioHowie]

I don't think you are suggesting you have the 48-50mph problem as I think I can tell you would just go faster. I don't ever ride at this speed myself.

Oh come on, Sparky...my ******** radar just went off.

What do you do? Go straight from 75mph to 0mph at stop signs/lights? You never decelerate at a less-than-tire-squalling rate of speed? You drive secondary roads at 130mph? Is your FJR equipped with some kind of inertialess drive that takes you directly from 30mph to 70mph without ever going 35>40>45>50>55>60?

Unless you're being purposely obstinate or simply just don't get what I'm talking about, let me explain:

Assuming I'm travelling OVER 50mph, as I approach a slow-down area, whether it's traffic signals, preparations for a turn, or just heavy traffic, as the bike decelerates (I know--a difficult concept for you FJR pilots with warp drive like Sparky) as the bike decelerates in the zone from around 52 to 45 mph, the front end will start doing the Charo "Cuchi-Cuchi" unless I grasp the grips with authority.

I normally ride with a very light touch, an old habit I developed to avoid numb-hands, and the bars will do the shimmy-shimmy in that narrow speed range. Not above, not below. Not enough to cause a tank slapper. But disconcerting nevertheless. It's exactly the type of issue/problem/defect (whatever you want to call it) that a damper would correct. Certainly 3 different brands of tires and correctly torqued steering head bearings hasn't corrected it.

Oh...it's rock-solid at 96 and 144 so I don't think it's a harmonic issue with the front end.

 

[twowheelnut]

I'm just impressed that Howie can spell 'Cuchi-Cuchi' correctly. :clap:

 

[RadioHowie]

I'm just impressed that Howie can spell 'Cuchi-Cuchi' correctly. :clap:

C'mon, you two-gunned stud...

Pretend I'm skooter and gimme a big, wet kiss!

:smarmyasspedophilicsmilie:

 

[twowheelnut]

Deep tongue or just a peck? :****:

 

[RadioHowie]

Close your eyes...

Pretend I've got a great big old waterhead...

and go for the tonsillectomy.

:rofl:

 

[sparky3008]

I don't think you are suggesting you have the 48-50mph problem as I think I can tell you would just go faster. I don't ever ride at this speed myself.

Oh come on, Sparky...my ******** radar just went off.

What do you do? Go straight from 75mph to 0mph at stop signs/lights? You never decelerate at a less-than-tire-squalling rate of speed? You drive secondary roads at 130mph? Is your FJR equipped with some kind of inertialess drive that takes you directly from 30mph to 70mph without ever going 35>40>45>50>55>60?

Unless you're being purposely obstinate or simply just don't get what I'm talking about, let me explain:

Assuming I'm travelling OVER 50mph, as I approach a slow-down area, whether it's traffic signals, preparations for a turn, or just heavy traffic, as the bike decelerates (I know--a difficult concept for you FJR pilots with warp drive like Sparky) as the bike decelerates in the zone from around 52 to 45 mph, the front end will start doing the Charo "Cuchi-Cuchi" unless I grasp the grips with authority.

I normally ride with a very light touch, an old habit I developed to avoid numb-hands, and the bars will do the shimmy-shimmy in that narrow speed range. Not above, not below. Not enough to cause a tank slapper. But disconcerting nevertheless. It's exactly the type of issue/problem/defect (whatever you want to call it) that a damper would correct. Certainly 3 different brands of tires and correctly torqued steering head bearings hasn't corrected it.

Oh...it's rock-solid at 96 and 144 so I don't think it's a harmonic issue with the front end.

Sell it! You have no hope. It wasn't one of the good ones.

On my dirt bike with the fast damper on a pretty high setting I have to jerk the handlebars pretty freaking hard to one side to get the damper to engage, exactly what a big rock would do. Not what you describe and still don't believe a damper will help.

Slow speed damper setting might help in your situation but I believe you will suffer with this like a car with no power steering and will have a different problem on all slow speed manuevers.



I do endoes while stopping and wheelies while accelerating so no problems...

 

[rublenoon]

sparky3008

thanks for sharing your opinion/insights

my priorities are as stated earlier and yes I will follow that path getting ready for a month run to and in AK next year [on all reasonable road types]. If the CO road trials don't work then I'll purchase a 450 / 650 cross over bike for the AK trip and sell it upon my return. Either way I win and still have the fjr for most rides.

just to be clear I only see a slight weave upon decel, typically in the 55 to 40 mph range. I have tried several tire pressure combinations and 40psig front/42psig rear works best for me on the oem metz's.

ride safe

rublenoon

 

[sparky3008]

sparky3008
thanks for sharing your opinion/insights

my priorities are as stated earlier and yes I will follow that path getting ready for a month run to and in AK next year [on all reasonable road types]. If the CO road trials don't work then I'll purchase a 450 / 650 cross over bike for the AK trip and sell it upon my return. Either way I win and still have the fjr for most rides.

just to be clear I only see a slight weave upon decel, typically in the 55 to 40 mph range. I have tried several tire pressure combinations and 40psig front/42psig rear works best for me on the oem metz's.

ride safe

rublenoon

Mostly I just enjoy giving Radio a hard time! :lol:

I do sincerely hope it works out on those roads.

I go to WV to a friends house a lot and it is a gravel road. The Fjr was definitely not fun on that road and neither is the gsxr. The gsxr being lighter with a stiff suspension is different than the feeling I got from the fjr. The fjr would push because of its weight and I just wasn't brave enough to go faster as it was up hill and off camber.

It is only about a 1/4 a mile and not something worth trying to "fix" for me.

Where my mother lives in Texas is all back country gravel roads and I definitely would not enjoy riding any motorcycle everyday in that environment.

I do hope you figure it out.

 

[RadioHowie]

Mostly I just enjoy giving Radio a hard time! :lol:

Bastage!

:glare:

 

[sullivan]

Holy crap. Talk about a bunch of old wives crabbing about nothing. Found this old thread and almost nobody wants a damper. But the intent of the question was can it be done? That's all. Don't offer anymore g.d. unsolicited advice. Period.

Specifically, did anyone think outside the box? Here is one thing: https://www.loringtiming.com/

Twice a year, people can run anything from a 50cc to a mega horsepower car.

Problem with running the FJR is that the axle shafts/nuts need wiring, oil filter I will do anyway for New England Dragway requirements, still need a kill switch which will be copied from a snowmobile or a pwc. Which leaves the steering.

If running over 125, damper needed. Period. Tech inspector got back to me and said the previous FJR's have been fitted with GSXR style units but not other information. So lets stop the gabbing and stick to the facts. Any details would be appreciated.