Stiff Clutch- ENOUGH !

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Well, well, you may want to pull the lever off, then clean the bronze bushing, grease it up, spritz the rubber boot with some silicon spray and see how that is. In fact, this should be routine maintenance along with the brake lever, shift pivot and brake pedal pivot.

Items 3 & 4 plus the bolt pivot.

BrakeLever.jpg


Picture borrowed from another Forum member that did not do regular maintenance. The lever and item #4, the bronze bushing.

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I'm with ionbeam on this one. WellWell's profile shows a 2006 model. If that lever hasn't been serviced since then, maybe that's all it needs. I have small hands for a guy and have begun to suffer from arthritis in both hands. But the FJR clutch isn't too strong for me at all.

 
`Maybe years of riding a dry clutch Ducati
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conditioned me to appreciate the light pull of my FJR clutch lever.

As others mentioned, clean and lube everything and if possible, pull the lever with your hand out at the very end of the bar. Leverage is your friend.

 
Once in motion, there is no need for a full clutch pull. Put a little load on the foot shift and a slight pull on the clutch and you will have a smooth shift with much less effort. Perhaps two fingers will work. I'll try it just for the hell of it!!

 
I have read all the posts about this. Even put that mousey earlier slave cylinder with a system flush.
Who knows how to get a 2 finger pull out this piece of ..... ?

Please skip the BS, I want this fixed or get another bike.

WW

2006 FJR
From the tone of your post I doubt you'd be happy with any bike.

 
Once in motion, there is no need for a full clutch pull. Put a little load on the foot shift and a slight pull on the clutch and you will have a smooth shift with much less effort. Perhaps two fingers will work. I'll try it just for the hell of it!!
Actually, no clutch pull is required at all for up-shifting. Just preload the shifter and then crack back the throttle to take the load off the gear dogs. It will snap right into the next gear pretty easily and as long as you throttle back, there is no appreciable damage to the dogs.

That isn't what I do since I have no problem with the clutch pull and just use all of my fingers to do it. No idea what is to be gained by using only 2 fingers unless the OP had an accident at the table saw and lost the others? In which case I would definitely advocate get an AE.

 
I don't think there is going to be a magic bullet for you.
Changing slave cylinder, replacing levers with Pazzos

and lubing all pivot point made it two-finger easy for me.

I may resort to four fingers waiting at a stop light but

on the road it's two fingers for clutch and brakes.
WellWell - When I bought my used 2007 last September, I too though effort at the clutch lever was high, Through this forum, I received much the same responses from many of same members replying in this thread... and their advice is dead on!!

Have you replaced the levers with Pazzo's (or knockoffs) yet?

Over the winter I made ALL of the changes that SLK50 listed ...and that HotRodZilla, ahchiu (both have early GENII's also), IonBeam and Fred W and others agree with. Their advice is as good as it gets. I also replacing the warn bushing that ionbeam references.

Today I was able to road test the changes and I am very happy with the results!

Many thanks to the forum members for their expert advice on this subject, especially the ones that I mentioned above.

 
I took my FJR out a few days ago and realized that I'm a 3-finger clutcher all the time; my little finger won't reach it
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. So I tried it with two and that was no problem, but I could see no advantage.

 
Since the OP appears to have abandoned the thread - I'll jump in with a bit of a thread hi-jack. Don't have a problem with the clutch pull really - installed a set of Pazzo's, per my farkle leader Fairlaner.

But I do have an issue with clutch engagement, When I first start it up it grabs quite noticeably with the clutch fully engaged. Goes away after it warms up for a bit. I have asked the dealer about it a couple/three times while having it serviced and he just shrugs his shoulders.

 
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Since the OP appears to have abandoned the thread - I'll jump in with a bit of a thread hi-jack. Don't have a problem with the clutch pull really - installed a set of Pazzo's, per my farkle leader Fairlaner.
But I do have an issue with clutch engagement, When I first start it up it grabs quite noticeably with the clutch fully engaged. Goes away after it warms up for a bit. I have asked the dealer about it a couple/three times while having it serviced and he just shrugs his shoulders.
Sounds like you need a new dealer

 
Sounds like you need to soak the clutch plates.
On a 2013 with 10K miles?

Especially on a newer bike with low miles. The clutch plates may never have been lubricated from the factory, and getting oil into the plates doesn't always seem to happen after everything is assembled. Just take a look how high the clutch pack sits compared to the oil level.

 
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