rushes
Well-known member
Take that **** off and then go twist it up.
Stuttering problem, I'm at a loss (Update, Problem Fixed)
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TownsendsFJR1300
Well-known member
How quickly we forget..
The ONLY issue I had with my old 04 had the same symptoms...
I found the problem on this forum and the fix.
Under the fuel tank is a white plastic connector with (as I re-call), 8-10 wires to it.
That connector is prown to collect water and the connectors corrode inside. I pulled mine apart and sure enough, pretty damn green.
Cleaned it out, dilectric grease, fixed!!!
BTW, it was still under warranty, the local Yamaha shop, with the help from Mama Yamaha in Ca, spent most of the day and couldn't find it..
The ONLY issue I had with my old 04 had the same symptoms...
I found the problem on this forum and the fix.
Under the fuel tank is a white plastic connector with (as I re-call), 8-10 wires to it.
That connector is prown to collect water and the connectors corrode inside. I pulled mine apart and sure enough, pretty damn green.
Cleaned it out, dilectric grease, fixed!!!
BTW, it was still under warranty, the local Yamaha shop, with the help from Mama Yamaha in Ca, spent most of the day and couldn't find it..
Queensland Ken
Well-known member
Any error codes ?
Have you checked for corrosion / high resistance on the ECU plug.
If the fueling improves as the motor warms up to 3 bars, may have something to do with the fast idle valves within the throttle bodies.
Or the wax motor and it's coolant supply, debris or air bubbles within the coolant pipes to or from the wax motor.
Make sure all 4 valves move as the bike warms up.
Coolant system may just need a good burp.
Dirty vacuum venturi ports within the throttle bodies.
Coolant sensor diagnostic test, important part of fuel mapping.
Have you checked for corrosion / high resistance on the ECU plug.
If the fueling improves as the motor warms up to 3 bars, may have something to do with the fast idle valves within the throttle bodies.
Or the wax motor and it's coolant supply, debris or air bubbles within the coolant pipes to or from the wax motor.
Make sure all 4 valves move as the bike warms up.
Coolant system may just need a good burp.
Dirty vacuum venturi ports within the throttle bodies.
Coolant sensor diagnostic test, important part of fuel mapping.
TownsendsFJR1300
Well-known member
Did you put some dilectric grease in there?
I never had an issue with the fan but an intermediate stutter over the entire RPM range...
Mine wasn't 2 years old at the time.
IMO, I'd pull it apart and re-check, won't take 20 minutes...
I never had an issue with the fan but an intermediate stutter over the entire RPM range...
Mine wasn't 2 years old at the time.
IMO, I'd pull it apart and re-check, won't take 20 minutes...
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That baby is full of dielectric grease. I checked it before putting the valve cover back on after the valve adjustment a couple weeks ago. It still looked good. When I cleaned it last summer, I pulled out each pin 1 by 1 and cleaned them thoroughly.
Carl
I got home and pulled the fuel controller all the way out and ............... that was not the problem. I took the bike for a ride and still stuttering, popping and low power.
Carl
Carl
TownsendsFJR1300
Well-known member
In your first post, you mentioned you adjusted the valves.
Dumb, but basic question,
I'm assuming the cam marks were lined up with the head surface.
Most importantly, TDC was verified at the crankshaft after pulling the Cam chain cover off? (Not just estimating TDC with something down the spark plug hole). IE cam(s) to crankshaft timing is dead on...(no skipped teeth, faulty CCT)
Also, re spark, do you have access to either a spark tester or an inductive timing light? Utilizing them on 1 & 4 cylinders would confirm one way or the other if you have spark from that coil.
With both of those cylinders likely not firing (same coil), as mentioned previously, the above test would confirm that and narrow down the issue.
Swapping the coils (if there's enough leads) and seeing if the problem follows the 1 & 4 coil would help..
Either a lazer temp gun pointed at each header would let you know what cylinder is working and which isn't. A spritz of water on the header would work too, not as accurate, but you'd get a good idea..
Dumb, but basic question,
I'm assuming the cam marks were lined up with the head surface.
Most importantly, TDC was verified at the crankshaft after pulling the Cam chain cover off? (Not just estimating TDC with something down the spark plug hole). IE cam(s) to crankshaft timing is dead on...(no skipped teeth, faulty CCT)
Also, re spark, do you have access to either a spark tester or an inductive timing light? Utilizing them on 1 & 4 cylinders would confirm one way or the other if you have spark from that coil.
With both of those cylinders likely not firing (same coil), as mentioned previously, the above test would confirm that and narrow down the issue.
Swapping the coils (if there's enough leads) and seeing if the problem follows the 1 & 4 coil would help..
Either a lazer temp gun pointed at each header would let you know what cylinder is working and which isn't. A spritz of water on the header would work too, not as accurate, but you'd get a good idea..
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rushes
Well-known member
Maybe you could find someone near that would let you swap parts until you stumble on to the problem.
Valid question. 1- It was running this way before I did the valve adjustment and 2- I checked like 4 different times to be sure that it was spot on. Just to be extra sure, I turned the motor by hand between each check. I had the crank, and both cams zip tied when I moved the cam out of the way while changing the valve shims. I checked the alignments before and after pulling the cam.
Thank you guys for the good suggestions. Keep them coming.
Carl
TownsendsFJR1300
Well-known member
No I understand that.
I was hoping the cam chain jumped a tooth (loose/old chain) causing the issue. And that you checked alignment of all three critical marks (and didn't skip over the crankmark, etc).
And lastly, re the chain and marks, all the slack was taken out in the front run (between the exhaust cam and crank) when checking marks and all the slop was at the rear by the CCT?
I know in the Yamaha shop manual for the FZ6, its INCORRECT. Yamaha has you turning the engine backwards, CC when going thru checking valves. I don't know if the Gen I manual may had the same issue. As a side note, the FZ6, cam and chain set up are about identical.
I was hoping the cam chain jumped a tooth (loose/old chain) causing the issue. And that you checked alignment of all three critical marks (and didn't skip over the crankmark, etc).
And lastly, re the chain and marks, all the slack was taken out in the front run (between the exhaust cam and crank) when checking marks and all the slop was at the rear by the CCT?
I know in the Yamaha shop manual for the FZ6, its INCORRECT. Yamaha has you turning the engine backwards, CC when going thru checking valves. I don't know if the Gen I manual may had the same issue. As a side note, the FZ6, cam and chain set up are about identical.
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Luis
Well-known member
I had something similar a year ago in my car when the camshaft sensor became disconnected. Loss of power etc. Did you reconnect that bugger after replacing the cylinder head cover?
Absolutely. I checked this thing every way possible.
It is a thought. After reading what you wrote, I went out and double checked it. It is plugged in.
TownsendsFJR1300
Well-known member
A member on the FZ6 forum with just over 100,000 miles on the clock had the Pick Up sensor in the RS cover get hacked up and destroyed from a sloppy chain..
I'm leaning, with the #1 and #4 cylinders probably not hitting, the coil is the common denominator.
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I am thinking that it is the coil and possibly a break in plug wire #4 right above the boot. I pulled #3 plug wires and the spark in #3 was jumping out at anything with a ground. #4 would not arch out with the opening right up against the frame. I am going to get another coil.
Carl
Carl
FJRay
Well-known member
I'll look in the pile. I think I saw some coils.
The FJR will definitely throw an error code if the sensor is disconnected. DAMHIKT
One more theoretical thought about your spark testing: That symptom may be perfectly normal since, with a wasted spark design, one plug wire will be arcing from the wire to ground and the other one will be arcing in the opposite direction. Arc discharges (spark) happen more readily from a sharp object, where the ions are concentrated at a tiip or edge of the electrode. Arcing from a large flat object (like the engine) to a smaller electrode would be somewhat more difficult.
How readily do the two wires from the other coil spark to ground?
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I first pulled the plug wires from #3 and #4 at the same time (different coils). #3 was super strong and #4 was super weak. I did the same for plug wires #1 and #2, but both of them were good and strong.
I hate having to wait this long before I can ride her. Maybe I will go borrow my friends VFR800 this weekend and flog the **** out of her again! That little ******* is a blast!
Carl
MCRIDER007
Well-known member
If plug wire #4 is weak but plug wire #1 is strong....and they are both being fired from the same coil....doesn't that indicate the the problem is with the plug wire rather than the coil?
