Stuttering problem, I'm at a loss (Update, Problem Fixed)

[audiowize]

I vote for the 1/4 coil/wire assembly. When I did my first valve adjustment, I found that one plug wire was very tight, and ended up working loose on my test ride. It annoyed me enough that I am considering fitting coil packs into the bike and removing the coils.

In your case, it may be easier to just pick up a spare assembly on eBay and give it a try.

 

[Fred W]

I vote for the 1/4 coil/wire assembly. When I did my first valve adjustment, I found that one plug wire was very tight, and ended up working loose on my test ride. It annoyed me enough that I am considering fitting coil packs into the bike and removing the coils.
In your case, it may be easier to just pick up a spare assembly on eBay and give it a try.

That would be an interesting project. I attempted (unsuccessfully) to do that on a Triumph Trophy 900 triple because the coils that came on those bikes were such junk. They caused all sort of drive-ability issues including... wait for it... stuttering and stumbling! I ended up putting some different wired coils on it as I couldn't get the tachometer to work right with the COP coils.

 

[n2osx]

I first pulled the plug wires from #3 and #4 at the same time (different coils). #3 was super strong and #4 was super weak. I did the same for plug wires #1 and #2, but both of them were good and strong

If plug wire #4 is weak but plug wire #1 is strong....and they are both being fired from the same coil....doesn't that indicate the the problem is with the plug wire rather than the coil?

It is the wire. I just got a deal that was worth buying both coils with all the wires that way I have extras. Plus the clip that holds the wires into the coil is a piece of plastic that gets brittle and breaks when you try to take the wire out, not sure if I want to rig it to hold new wires in. I could do it, but not sure I want to.

Carl

 

[n2osx]

Well my friends, I got the coils today 4 day earlier than expected. I installed them.......... no change. This is really pissing me off. I almost never get to this point where I haven't been able to figure a running issue.

Carl

 

[08FJR4ME]

Maybe it is the clogged Cats then.

Maybe?

 

[n2osx]

Maybe it is the clogged Cats then.
Maybe?

That had crossed my mind. I really hope that it's not. I don't mind doing the cutting and welding, but I just don't feel like pulling off the headers. We will see.

Carl

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Do you have access to a leakdown tester (and air compressor)?

Its MUCH MORE comprehensive than a compression test.

That test would give you a better idea the health of the internals.

Should you be blowing oil past the oil rings and fouling a plug, that'd certainly affect the running condition.

 

[RossKean]

I have never heard of a problem that was attributed to a clogged catalytic converter on an FJR - not to say it couldn't happen but you would be unique AFAIK. In any case, the CC would not affect two cylinders more than the other two. Unlikely to be a fuel pump issue because it would also affect everything the same. At this point, I might have a look at fuel injectors. If nothing visible in terms of connectors, pull them out and have a look for evidence of clogging etc. Try swapping them around and see if the problems follow the injectors.

Of course, general electrical connections (ECU and "main" connector under the tank) are still suspect and should be checked.

Good luck.

 

[RaYzerman19]

I'm assuming you checked the spark with the plugs in the coil wire and grounded... if #4 is weak and all others are OK, it may be the #4 plug is faulty, i.e., cracked ceramic or internal resistor breakdown....... how about trying a new plug in #4?

 

[08FJR4ME]

I take it you unhooked the juice box and tried running it stock correct?

Dave

 

[rushes]

I know nothing about electronics, and the problems I've ever seen with a bad CDI or ECU were complete failure. But I'm wondering if you may have one with a slight problem in there. Maybe a diode or capacitor or something that is affected by heat?

Again, I'm just throwing crap out there...

*edit*

Now I'm curious to see which electronics wizard will be the first to call my crap crap...

 

[n2osx]

I'm assuming you checked the spark with the plugs in the coil wire and grounded... if #4 is weak and all others are OK, it may be the #4 plug is faulty, i.e., cracked ceramic or internal resistor breakdown....... how about trying a new plug in #4?

I did. Plugs are working great now. I think that while diagnosing the issues, the plug wire broke after going on and off repeatedly. I do believe the wire was trimmed before I ever got to it making it harder to get into the sparkplug hole.

I take it you unhooked the juice box and tried running it stock correct?
Dave

I did pull it completely out. After talking to a good friend on the phone from the forum, I am leaning to a leaky injector. It could be stuck open or partly open and flooding that cylinder. Makes sense. I thought about it a while ago but then focused on the coil instead of still checking out the injectors. I made a set up to flush out and clean the injectors that I will post pictures of tonight. I need to go to my friend's house after work and pick it up. Let's hope!

Carl

 

[Fred W]

The injectors are relative;y easy to remove, so you could swap them around and see if the problem moves with the suspect injector.

 

[n2osx]

The injectors are relative;y easy to remove, so you could swap them around and see if the problem moves with the suspect injector.

I will do that anyway after I put them back in. I numbered them and figured that because I already pulled the fuel rail, I might as well clean them. I made an actuator switch to use on the injectors while are out and that will let me hear the clicks as they open and shuts plus see that if any are stuck open and/or leaking. I already tested the injector plug with my noid lights, they were fine.

Carl

 

[rcsnclh]

Up front, I have no answer to this but am extremely interested in the ultimate finding. I have been dealing with a rough idling and "rich off idle when hot" 2004 for years. This thread was a bit of deja vu for me. In an ongoing effort to correct the problem, I bought and installed new coils and wires; no difference. Cleaned the plug at the steering head, made a little difference. Carbs synched to within an inch of their lives, no difference. TPS adjusted perfectly, made a little difference. Just (in the last two weeks) had all four injectors cleaned and tested (before and after), no difference. And they found no problems with the injectors at 2 different flow rates

So here's where I may be able to provide some additional info to the puzzle; last summer while cruising through canada on an open road, I glance down and the check engine light is on. Pull over and check codes: 32 shows up. I called my dealer and he said if it has oil and isnt overheating go ahead and ride it to the nearest dealer. I had a dealer in Victoria check it out. They found that the number 4 plug was showing waaaay rich. They swapped #4 & #3 injectors then #3 plug showed waay rich. Indicates a bad injector, right? Well, not according to the report I got from the injector testing service i used.

I'm hopeful this additional info may help you solve your problem so that I can solve my own. Best of luck!

 

[n2osx]

Up front, I have no answer to this but am extremely interested in the ultimate finding. I have been dealing with a rough idling and "rich off idle when hot" 2004 for years. This thread was a bit of deja vu for me. In an ongoing effort to correct the problem, I bought and installed new coils and wires; no difference. Cleaned the plug at the steering head, made a little difference. Carbs synched to within an inch of their lives, no difference. TPS adjusted perfectly, made a little difference. Just (in the last two weeks) had all four injectors cleaned and tested (before and after), no difference. And they found no problems with the injectors at 2 different flow rates
So here's where I may be able to provide some additional info to the puzzle; last summer while cruising through canada on an open road, I glance down and the check engine light is on. Pull over and check codes: 32 shows up. I called my dealer and he said if it has oil and isnt overheating go ahead and ride it to the nearest dealer. I had a dealer in Victoria check it out. They found that the number 4 plug was showing waaaay rich. They swapped #4 & #3 injectors then #3 plug showed waay rich. Indicates a bad injector, right? Well, not according to the report I got from the injector testing service i used.

I'm hopeful this additional info may help you solve your problem so that I can solve my own. Best of luck!

It must be an injector. While going through hundreds of postings trying to find a solution, I did read of another guy that had a simular story as yours. He also had the dealer "test" his injectors and also found that they were "fine." After much banging of his head, he finally bought new injectors (new or used, I can't remember) and his problem is gone. If the problem moves with the injector, I would say injector.

I bought a multi-pack of injector o-rings at the autoparts store. Unfortunately they are all either too big or too small. I for the life of me, can't find the actual size of the FJR injector o-rings. I have the part # for the o-rings but can't find the size. Anyone know the actual size of these o-rings??

Carl

 

[n2osx]

Update-

I looked all over the Portland Metro area and could not find the injector o-rings anywhere. Hell, I even tried Harbor Freight! It is crazy because they fit so many things. So I ordered them from Beaverton Motorcycle. I get a friends and family discount on pretty much everything. It looks like stealerships try to charge $8.25 each. Partzilla is the cheapest that I have found normally @ $5.75 each. Luckily with my friends and family discount, I was able to get them for $4.80 each.

After I get them, I am going to measure them out for future reference. I will let you know what happens next.

Thank you everyone for all the input regardless of the outcome. Many I had already tried, and others just didn't fix. But I think you all anyway.

Carl

 

[n2osx]

Final Update!!!

An already long story short, I found and fixed the issue. Clogged fuel injector/s. I pulled the fuel injector to look inside the tops and they were full of crap. I rinsed out the tank, cleaned out the fuel rail, and shot out the fuel pump. After that, I made flushed out the fuel injectors with a set-up that I make out of a 9 volt battery, momentary switch, some wire, mini wire connectors from a Freightliner, and a tire valve stem. (I just remembered that I still need to take pictures of it, I'll get them!) Cleaning the injectors, the spray pattern went back to normal and flowed very well. I finally got them installed when the new injector O-Rings came in. Took the bike for a test run, and she was finally alive!!.....Until I had an Ignition Switch and Intake Air Pressure Sensor malfunction. I'll save you the details of all the trouble shooting and just say that 1- the ignition switch broke internally last year and I modified it to work, but neglected to replace it (because it was working and I plum forgot). The sensor is the same sensor that is under the seat (Gen 1), so I swapped them and the code moved with it to the seat. This sensor is almost unheard of failing, but sense the problem followed the move to under the seat, I am guessing there is an issue. I did another TBS this weekend too. I rode to work this morning and the only thing that happen (other than my smile) is that the ignition cut out once but that is it. I'll buy one that I found online with low miles on Friday when I get paid.

Again, thank you everyone for the help. That is one of the reasons that I love this forum. If you have questions about any of this that I went through, please ask here. That way, it may be able to help others out in the future.

Carl

 

[Niehart]

LIKE

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Congrates, glad you found it..

Just as a side note,

I've replaced the fuel tank on my FZ several times (PO wrecked it).

I'm very anal about keeping it clean, watching what goes in the tank, etc. Even after a year or two, I'd drain the tank (for the swap-brand new tank) and find grit/crap in the bottom of the tank.

Now this isn't an 11 year old tank.

It really doesn't surprise me of the injectors being clogged up.

On a Yamaha OB forum frequent, ( https://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/forum2/ ) a 10 Micron fuel filter is used prior to fuel entering the engine. Most of the engines are FI'ed with the high pressure pump in a VST tank (like a carb, filled from the main vessel fuel tank).

There are more issues with clogged injectors/filters, VST filters. And thats AFTER fuel passes thru the 10 micron filter/water separator..