Sudden (ish) oil usage..

[wallypiper]

Actually the oil light is a low oil level warning (doesn't measure pressure).

That is correct.

The light is solely a low pressure indicator

That is incorrect. Don't post facts that you don't know to be true. Read the owner's manual.

 

[bramfrank]

Actually the oil light is a low oil level warning (doesn't measure pressure).

That is correct.

The light is solely a low pressure indicator

That is incorrect. Don't post facts that you don't know to be true. Read the owner's manual.

I suppose I could easily have blown you off with a glib comment about the fact that an oil pressure switch is itself a form of level monitor (because if the level is low you won't have any pressure while the engine is running) and used the manufacturer's really incorrect claim on their web site of how the linked brakes operate as an example of how you can't believe everything you read - especially if it has been translated from an Asian language.

But I checked the service manual from my '06 and there really IS an oil level switch referenced. Interesting. This is the first of the 15 or so bikes I've owned in the past 10 years that has one. Even my car (a premium model from a domestic manufacturer) doesn't have a level switch for the oil, though it does for the washer fluid.

Then again, I have been combing the service manual looking for an oil pressure switch . . . can't seem to find one.

In the end, it doesn't much matter. If the light comes on you switch off the engine as soon as you safely can and wait for a tow - and if indeed there is no pressure switch and your oil pump is toasted, you end up with a seized engine because there'd be no indication of low pressure.

Mea Culpa.

 

[ELP_JC]

I might be stupid, but I'm almost sure there's no oil level sensor on the FJR due to one simple fact: there's a freaking sight glass down there, which pretty much serves the same purpose. Besides, I've never heard of a WET SUMP MOTORCYCLE having just that sensor, but it's an option on high-end BMW twins (which also have a sight glass), but those bikes are notorious for oil consumption. In this case, my guess is a translation error, but I'm so baffled by some of the 'engineering' on this bike I don't doubt anything anymore.

The bottom line is BOTH sensors are your best defense, since each addresses different potential problems.

I'm too lazy to browse my CD manual just for this, but will follow this thread to find the conclusion. Later gang.

JC

 

[Rogue]

I might be stupid, but I'm almost sure there's no oil level sensor on the FJR due to one simple fact: there's a freaking sight glass down there, which pretty much serves the same purpose. Besides, I've never heard of a WET SUMP MOTORCYCLE having just that sensor, but it's an option on high-end BMW twins (which also have a sight glass), but those bikes are notorious for oil consumption. In this case, my guess is a translation error, but I'm so baffled by some of the 'engineering' on this bike I don't doubt anything anymore. The bottom line is BOTH sensors are your best defense, since each addresses different potential problems.

I'm too lazy to browse my CD manual just for this, but will follow this thread to find the conclusion. Later gang.

JC

Its a level sensor. IMO it is so un common for an oil pump on a modern bike to go out that the rider not checking his oil level or an oil leak is much more likely.

 

[ELP_JC]

Its a level sensor. IMO it is so un common for an oil pump on a modern bike to go out that the rider not checking his oil level or an oil leak is much more likely.

Without a sight glass, I'd pick the level sensor for the reasons you mentioned. With the sight glass, I prefer the pressure one by a small margin, since I religiously check the sight glass before pushing my bike off the center stand. But again, both are best. Only some new BMW R1200 bikes have both, but they have to be loaded to the gills to get that option.

May I ask you WHERE is this sensor? It should be pretty conspicuous, as it has to be in the sump area, no? Thanks for the heads up man.

JC

 

[Windjammer]

...and no, nothing is leaking, no puddles anywhere.

How can it possibly be that a bloke from England knows less about oil leaks/loss than a bunch of Yanks? I only ask because I own a Norton :lol:

OK, smartass comments aside, oil leakage could go to the following areas (possibly without you noticing)

1. Into the coolant (internal gasket leak). Make sure your coolant level doesn't rise as oil level is falling. Look at the coolant for signs of oil intrusion.

2. Into the airbox. Excessive blow by can cause oil mist to accumulate here over time. Check to see if the air filter is fouled with oil.

3. Into the atmosphere. Not all leaks pool onto the ground. Some simply get "blown" off the bike by wind as you're riding. It all depends on where a leak runs down to. A very slow leak around the drain plug might act like this. You did put a crush washer on the drain plug, right?

Good luck Mate! B)

WJ

 

[v65]

I gave the bike a service

What exactly did you do?

 

[Rogue]

...May I ask you WHERE is this sensor? ...

Go to the Yamaha On-Line Parts web site, for my bike (04' Kalifornia) it's under "Electrical 1", part # 13 5JW-85720-00-00 OIL LEVEL GAUGE ASSY.

It's hard to tell from the drawing but it looks like the rear of the sump.

 

[AArnie]

Well, I just topped the oil level up again. Just over a week ago (1000mls +/-) I added 300ml, today it's back to where it was again. I've checked the spark plugs and they are all clean. (in case it's significant)

I also asked at a local-ish dealership today and was told the following. FJRs can use upto 500ml per 1000mls, and the type of oil will make a difference. If synthetic oil is used the the engine can "suffer" from Bore Glaze: especially if lots of motorway miles are done. This inturn can increase the oil consumption. If I use a cheap non-synthetic oil, then if I have glazed bores then the symptoms may ease.

I currently run either silkolene Comp 4 or Pro 4 (cannot recall which it is - the tin's in the garage and i'm not.) - as recommended by the silkolene website.

I've heard of this [bore Glazing] being the case during a run-in period for a new engine - the manuals normally state that the full rev rang should be used (upto certain levels), but after 30K Miles.

Next step I guess would be to check for oil in the header pipes, but i'm not sure it "ticks" too much - there is some noise but not like the sound bites on the web - at least i don't think so.

Any thoughts?

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

<snip>...a glib comment about the fact that an oil pressure switch is itself a form of level monitor (because if the level is low you won't have any pressure while the engine is running)

This is not a 'fact' and is not true. First, many motorcycle engines (Yamaha included) don't have much oil pressure anytime -- they just pump lots of quantity. Second, if there is an oil pressure requirement, it'll be there right down to the last cup of oil in the sump.

bramfrank: "This is the first of the 15 or so bikes I've owned in the past 10 years that has one."

Get out much...? Actually, Yamaha has incorporated oil sump level switches for over 25 years in many of their motorcycles.

bramfrank: "In the end, it doesn't much matter. If the light comes on you switch off the engine as soon as you safely can and wait for a tow - and if indeed there is no pressure switch and your oil pump is toasted, you end up with a seized engine because there'd be no indication of low pressure."

Sorry, but this is not true either -- you can happily ride for-ever with you oil-level light lit as long as you know that there's oil in the sump (by checking the level in the sight-glass). Often the oil-level light will light when the engine's cold, oil is cold, revs are high, etc -- IOW, much oil is pumped to the upper parts of the engine and it takes longer (when cold) for it to return to raise the float in the level switch.

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

I also asked at a local-ish dealership today and was told the following. FJRs can use upto 500ml per 1000mls, and the type of oil will make a difference. If synthetic oil is used the the engine can "suffer" from Bore Glaze: especially if lots of motorway miles are done. This inturn can increase the oil consumption. If I use a cheap non-synthetic oil, then if I have glazed bores then the symptoms may ease.
I currently run either silkolene Comp 4 or Pro 4 (cannot recall which it is - the tin's in the garage and i'm not.) - as recommended by the silkolene website.

I've heard of this [bore Glazing] being the case during a run-in period for a new engine - the manuals normally state that the full rev rang should be used (upto certain levels), but after 30K Miles.

Next step I guess would be to check for oil in the header pipes, but i'm not sure it "ticks" too much - there is some noise but not like the sound bites on the web - at least i don't think so.

Any thoughts?

A few:

The 'local-ish dealership' is "loco". Neither my FJR (nor those of a few friends') have used any oil. In fact, (w/nearly 50K miles) mine recently completed a 4K mile in 10 days trip with absolutely no oil consumption. You may have an engine problem -- but that in no way means "FJRs can use....etc". FJRs with serious engine problems can use.....(my take).

Modern name-brand motorcycle oils are excellent (and don't cause your engine to use oil) -- Silkolene included.

"Bore-glazing" and other 'ponderables' make I.C. engines sound like 'witch-craft'. When, if there is an engine problem, there are time-honored, proven diagnostic techniques to determine same and are used by reputable shops. Having said that -- it might not hurt to make a 'Lands End to John O Groats' run (and, don't spare the horses) -- sometimes, some good use has a way of sorting things....

There is an issue with oil consumption and worn exhaust valve guides with Gen I FJRs -- the whole bleak story is well documented on this forum (search....).

Good Luck