Taming the beast

[Fred H.]

Actually my comment about Mobile One making the clutch act more like an on/off switch comes not from knowledge of friction modifiers (or fluid suface tension reducers), oil additives, Viscosity Index improvers, Zinc Dialkadithophosphate content, boron or calcium content, Group II, IV or V/ PAO base oils, or any other oil factoid you wanna throw out, but instead comes from good ole fashioned experience.

I have switched several bikes over to Mobil One 15w-50 (old red cap, no friction modifiers) and everytime I did, I noticed a marked change in clutch engagement. I suspect the FJR would suffer the same fate. Don't get me wrong, I love Mobile One have used it in all my bikes, but I can tell you for certain that it will decrease the friction zone of the clutch and make it act a bit more like an on/off switch. Given that the FJR already seems to have a very small friction zone, I think this could make the bike even more "jerky".

High quality synthetic oils like Mobil One just seem to affect clutch engagement behavior. If you pay attention when you switch from conventional to synthetic you will probably notice it yourself. It is not a huge change, but it is enough that you can feel the difference.

Despite this, I will probably still switch the FJR over to Mobile One soon, just cause I like it better than about any other oil on the market.

 

[RadioHowie]

Howzabout that tasty Rotella-T syn?

 

[Scab]

Howzabout that tasty Rotella-T syn?

I love it. I don't leave home without it.

 

[Groo]

Got a gallon of Rotella waiting patiently in my garage right now... gotta get to that this week sometime.

 

[pickax]

Fred

Any problems with the NEP throttle lock since the throttle spring modification?

 

[RadioHowie]

Got a gallon of Rotella waiting patiently in my garage right now... gotta get to that this week sometime.

Yep...me too. If I can find it. Can't find sh!+ since we moved, but I at least did put the new filter I bought in a safe place -- if I could only remember where that safe place is.

Funny thing, when I stopped in at the dealership the other day, the parts monkey mentioned they had 7 FJR filters in stock, but NO crushwashers for the drain bolt.

Is the FJR the only Yammy that uses that filter? 7 in stock doesn't seem like a lot, and NO crushwashers? Sheesh!! :glare:

 

[twowheelnut]

Funny thing, when I stopped in at the dealership the other day, the parts monkey mentioned they had 7 FJR filters in stock, but NO crushwashers for the drain bolt.
Is the FJR the only Yammy that uses that filter? 7 in stock doesn't seem like a lot, and NO crushwashers? Sheesh!! :glare:

The local owners all took rad's advice on a substitute washer so the dealer doesn't need to stock the crushers any more, but since you don't have a manual, he won't tell you his secret swap.

 

[rogerfjrfaster]

Actually my comment about Mobile One making the clutch act more like an on/off switch comes not from knowledge of friction modifiers (or fluid suface tension reducers), oil additives, Viscosity Index improvers, Zinc Dialkadithophosphate content, boron or calcium content, Group II, IV or V/ PAO base oils, or any other oil factoid you wanna throw out, but instead comes from good ole fashioned experience.
I have switched several bikes over to Mobil One 15w-50 (old red cap, no friction modifiers) and everytime I did, I noticed a marked change in clutch engagement. I suspect the FJR would suffer the same fate. Don't get me wrong, I love Mobile One have used it in all my bikes, but I can tell you for certain that it will decrease the friction zone of the clutch and make it act a bit more like an on/off switch. Given that the FJR already seems to have a very small friction zone, I think this could make the bike even more "jerky".

High quality synthetic oils like Mobil One just seem to affect clutch engagement behavior. If you pay attention when you switch from conventional to synthetic you will probably notice it yourself. It is not a huge change, but it is enough that you can feel the difference.

Despite this, I will probably still switch the FJR over to Mobile One soon, just cause I like it better than about any other oil on the market.

I've been useing Synethic oil since Just after I got it and with over 77,000 miles on it no problems.

rogerfjrfaster

 

[FJRChip]

I don't post often, but I solved my herky jerky lean throttle surge this evening with a revtech DFO. The installation was simple and the settings supplied at the techlusion web site seem to work perfectly. I'm sure you could fine tune a little here or there, but I was amazed at the instant smoothness at part throttle openings. The settings suggested were "with" the O2 sensor connected. They also provide settings with the sensor disconnected. I am heading to Northern PA this weekend from the Chesapeake VA area. When I get back I'll give a full report on the performance of the DFO. I interested to see if there is a gas mileage penalty.

 

[bluejag]

Fred.. I am 100% sure that the return spring release is one of the most significant things you can do to smooth out throttle control. I also believe that becuse of the strong spring you get (in the heavy equipment field) they call it .. operator induced ocillation.(No joke) you are unknowingly making small corections to control the surge but in effect you are making the problem worse. That's why now all your heavy equipment is hydraulicly Pilot controlled i.e. the operators input is hydraulicly( feathered) to reduce this unwanted excessive overcompensation. Also the clutch operation on my 05 was always very good but with the spring release you must now relearn your clutch/throttle technique. Alot smoother now!

 

[jjsC6]

Fred.. I am 100% sure that the return spring release is one of the most significant things you can do to smooth out throttle control. I also believe that becuse of the strong spring you get (in the heavy equipment field) they call it .. operator induced ocillation.(No joke) you are unknowingly making small corections to control the surge but in effect you are making the problem worse. That's why now all your heavy equipment is hydraulicly Pilot controlled i.e. the operators input is hydraulicly( feathered) to reduce this unwanted excessive overcompensation. Also the clutch operation on my 05 was always very good but with the spring release you must now relearn your clutch/throttle technique. Alot smoother now!

I agree - along with taking the play out of the cable. I did those two things about three weeks ago on my 06, and the difference in throttle control was night and day.

REGARDING SYNTHETIC OIL - First, let me say that I don't claim to know if its more "slippery" or not. I have used it in all of my vehicles for several years, and swear by it. But here is my question to the guy who does not believe it is more slippery. It is widely adviced these days not to switch from dino to synthetic for a couple of thousand miles so that the engine can properly break in.

I'm not genius, but that tells me the reason would be because Synthetic is more slippery - not allowing the engine to break in as well. So my question to you is this - Do you believe it is okay to switch to Synthetic on a brand new vehicle?

For a reference, I have now owned four Corvettes that come from the factory with synthetic, so I am actually inclined to believe that it is a myth that you should let an engine break in fully before switching. I would like some other opinions on this matter.

 

[GreyGoose]

Just completed the barbarian mod. Already had the throttle body's synced (that were dead on), and released the throttle spring (an 80% improvement). at first ride, bike is definitly smoother at slow speed than before. i'd say those two fixes alone took out 85 % of the herky jerky stuff we've got. On initial ride, i believe the bike is running cooler, but the amount of heat i feel on my legs seemed to have increased (and i know that dosent make sense). Also installed the new doug hines risers. They make a big difference and i would recommend them. I will say that this is way more farkling than i planned on doing. And i dont particularly like the idea that i had to do them to make matters in a state of normalization.

Grip puppies

Cruise control

throttle spring release

barbarian modification

heat shields for boots

cycle gear helmet locks

Tankslapper kit

Doug hines risers

New windshield planned for july

New seat 2007.

There isnt one of these modification that i felt was optional to fully enjoy this bike. Dont get me wrong, this bike is a blast to ride, but this is a bit much. (and dont get me started about the amount of heat this machine puts off).

GreyGoose

 

[v65]

Fred, out of curiosity which of the three variants of the throttle body sync did you perform?

1) authorized

2)unauthorized

3)jestal

 

[Fred H.]

I set them per the shop manual.

 

[RONFJR06]

Hi Fred

Ron Brown in Burleson would like to known if you can just lift the front of the tang to remove the throttle spring or do you have to remove tank on the 06's.I did this on my 03 but was told to get to spring on 06's there was a cover under tank ??? it's killing my right hand.Also my is a AE.

I spent some time this week doing a series of mods and adjustments to the 06 to see how much of the herky-jerky I could get rid of.
I started by doing the Barbarian Mod and increased all the settings by 7 increments, and that went a long way to making the bike run smoother and get rid of some of the vibration and slight lean surging.

I then synchronized the throttle bodies, though they really were not very far off. Next, I released the center throttle spring, and got rid of all the slack in the throttle cable that I could. By the way, after I released the center throttle spring, I went back and re-checked my throttle body sync to see if it changed it any, and it did not.

The throttle now has significantly less spring force on it, but still returns like it should. I do notice that now there is some disparity between the heavier clutch springs on the left and the light throttle spring force on the right grip that takes some getting used to. You also need to exercise some care after releasing the center throttle spring, as it is easy to grab too much throttle until you adjust to the new feel.

The end result, is now the bike has less vibration and runs just a wee bit cooler, and there is less herky-jerky shifting and the bike is a bit easier to ride smoothly. I suspect the reason that Yamaha made the throttle springs so heavy was to match the force needed for the clutch and throttle, and to give the rider a feel for the power of the engine, as by making the throttle a bit stiffer, it tends to give you some feedback that you do have a considerable amount of power at your disposal and helps you adjust to the pull of the engine.

The clutch still acts a lot like an on/off switch and doesn't seem to have a very large engagement zone and heavy springs. Some of this is just a matter of getting used to, but it can make transitioning back and forth from another bike a bit more difficult. I also suspect that Mobile One oil or another high quality synthetic is only going to make this problem worse, as many synthetic oils can further reduce the slip zone of the clutch.

All in all, I think these three items (1. Increase fuel mixture settings, 2. release center throttle spring, 3. throttle body sync) are a good thing for most folks and that you will find the bike more controllable and easier to ride after you do them. Just be REALLY careful the first time you ride the bike afterwards until you get used to the new feel.

 

[RadioHowie]

Fred, out of curiosity which of the three variants of the throttle body sync did you perform?1) authorized

2)unauthorized

3)jestal

These three links need to be "stickied" together in the technical forum for future reference. Great resource.

Admins?

 

[jcyuhn]

Ron Brown in Burleson would like to known if you can just lift the front of the tang to remove the throttle spring or do you have to remove tank on the 06's.I did this on my 03 but was told to get to spring on 06's there was a cover under tank ??? it's killing my right hand.Also my is a AE.

You have to completely pull the tank on the '06. There is indeed a head shield covering the engine/throttle bodies. It's just a glorified piece of aluminum foil, held in place by one of those black plastic rivets Yamaha seems to love so much.

Removing the tank is only five extra minutes work. There are two electrical connectors and one fuel line (on 49 state bikes...) and all have quick disconnects. Just make sure to run it down on fuel first, otherwise you'll have to contend with ~40lbs of fuel sloshing about.

- JimY

 

[RONFJR06]

THANKS

Ron

Ron Brown in Burleson would like to known if you can just lift the front of the tang to remove the throttle spring or do you have to remove tank on the 06's.I did this on my 03 but was told to get to spring on 06's there was a cover under tank ??? it's killing my right hand.Also my is a AE.

You have to completely pull the tank on the '06. There is indeed a head shield covering the engine/throttle bodies. It's just a glorified piece of aluminum foil, held in place by one of those black plastic rivets Yamaha seems to love so much.

Removing the tank is only five extra minutes work. There are two electrical connectors and one fuel line (on 49 state bikes...) and all have quick disconnects. Just make sure to run it down on fuel first, otherwise you'll have to contend with ~40lbs of fuel sloshing about.

- JimY

 

[Fred H.]

One other thing I have been thinking about that might help make the bike smoother, is to go figure out exactly what Yamaha changed on the throttle pull assy for the 06, and undo it by either modification, or installing parts off an 05.

In 06, they apparently made a change so that the throttle plate actuation is not linear with throttle grip movement and I believe they made small throttle grip changes at low RPM result in larger throttle plate movements. I am not clear why they did this, maybe it was to make the bike feel like it had more low end grunt. I can't help but feel that this change is one of the big reasons the bike is hard to ride smooth.

If I can figure out exactly what changes they made, I may attempt to go see if they can be put back to the way they are on an 05. If the changes were made at the throttle grip it should be fairly easy, but if they made them to the throttle bodies it may be more trouble than it is worth.

 

[GreyGoose]

Fred,

that would be great. I think we've done about everthing in our power (other that a PcIII) to smooth this out. I cant believe we've even had to mess with this as long as we have. We all appreciate you efforts.

it remains a mental effort to try and drive this thing smoothly in the lower gears. I never imagined this type of problem on this bike. (but then again, i never thought the st1300 was going to cook my gon&%#s either). So far, all recommmendation have been dead on. but we're no where close to this thing being what you or i would consider "right".

Your making progress in the right direction. Keep up the good work. its definitly apppreciated.

GreyGoose