Tank Removal Question

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TWILKIN650

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In a few weeks I plan to raise the tank for the first time, and have printed all the helpful notes and read the FJRTech articles regarding tank removal. I'd like to do as much of the electrical farkling, throttle spring unwrapping, insulating and so forth at one time as possible. If I find myself with a full tank of gas, is there any problem with siphoning the tank down as far as possible? Are the gas gauge sender units delicate enough or in the way that I could damage them with a siphon hose?

Yes, I know, running the tank down with a brisk 100mph run would be better!

 
The shop manual says to pump the gas out prior to tank removal. However, if you are just going to leave everything attached and just gain access then you can leave some gas in it and raise it up just like syncing the TB's.

 
I've siphoned gas out of the tank before, no problem. You can also raise the tank with a partial fill as wll. I've raised the tank with over a half tank and there isn't a concern. I use a 10 gauge insulated electrical wire to form a loop to go around the tank hold-down bracket, then raise the tank and pull the wire back to the grab rail and wrap/bend to hold it in place. (This just an alternative to the rope method.)

 
Thanks, I just didn't want to do a "fuel gaugectomy" if I snaked a siphon down the filler neck.

 
+1 with C&C

Except I hold up the tank with bungees that have plastic hooks. Don't forget to pop off the side panels first...

 
Years ago a lawnmower shop steered me onto one of those plastic 'squeeze-bulb' siphoning units used for kerosene heaters. Have used it every fall for 10 or more years to drain fuel from lawn equipment and it still works great!

 
TWILKIN650 - You ought to consider just taking the tank off. I did that when I did the Blue Sea install (and to insulate the bottom of the tank last year) just to get it out of the way. While daunting the first time, not really difficult. I did it this last time w/about half a tank of gas. Remove the two front bolts, lift and secure the tank, remove the 2 x electrical leads (gotta press a small lever on each plug) and remove the 2 x fuel leads - stick a golf tee in the one lead and a rag or such in the other (second fuel lead takes a 90 degree turn and the tee (clean tee!) won't work - the undo the 2 x relief tubes on the left (clutch) side of the tank. Remove the pivot bolt at the back and lift off (does help if you have someone help with this step, but can be done by yourself). I just put it on the floor on top of a blanket to not damage any of the connections.

Fuel won't (at least didn't for me) come out of the tank, but the fuel in the 2 x fuel lines will come out if you're not carefull - heck, some will come out even if you are careful!

If you're gonna add the insulation under the tank you really do need to remove the tank and since you'll need to tilt it, etc when applying the insulation, it should be as low as possible; I had one bar on the fuel gauge when I did mine.

It was real nice not having the tank in the way when I did the powerblock install and again, it's not really difficult to take off. Good luck!

Jim

 
SYPHON!!???

Don't you know that will cause ticking, engine seizure, listlessness, ruin the fuel pump, injectors, fuel guage, cause the tank to implode, loose the war in Iraq, get your dog pregnant, and worst of all it's boring.

No, verily I say unto you, the only way is to do the 100 mph tank emptying manoever. It is the time-honored method. Trust me on this.

Pepperell

 
I generally agree with JimLor. I had half a tank of gas when I needed to take it off to add a fitting for my auxilliary tank. I didn't even plug the lines up. The tank seemed to self seal on the main fitting.

In fact, I popped open the lid, turned the whole thing upside down over a 5 gallon bucket and drained the tank that way. It poured out perfectly with minimal splash.

If you're siphoning, the pump is on the right side. Stay left of midline with the hose and you won't get near the sender unit.

 
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