Tapered bearing

[mattster31]

I installed a tapered bearing set two years ago. This winter, I stripped the bike down (literally) to the bare frame to take care of maintenance (lubrication, CCT, valve shims, shock replaced, new fluids everywhere).......but I digress.

I have re-installed the triple clamps and torqued the bearing to the recommended setting (52Nm initial, backed of then 18Nm final) there is now a rather noticeable "stiction" in the bearing movement. The races look and feel fine, and the bearings look OK...... I cleaned and re-greased everything too.

It feels like pitted races and or squared rollers. I don't get it. In order for the bearing to move smoothly, I have to leave it hand tight only, which would result in a clunky front end once I ride it I believe.....

I think I'll just spend the $30 and order a new set.

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

I installed a tapered bearing set two years ago. I have re-installed the triple clamps and torqued the bearing to the recommended setting (52Nm initial,

That may have been un-necessary? -- since they weren't 'new' bearings and were already 'set' in their mounts?

backed of then 18Nm final) there is now a rather noticeable "stiction" in the bearing movement. The races look and feel fine, and the bearings look OK

Really look with a bright light and, maybe, a magnifier. "Brinelling" occurs to tapered rollers as much as to the original balls -- one isn't necessarily "better" than the other, just different designs for different applications.

It feels like pitted races and or squared rollers. I don't get it. In order for the bearing to move smoothly, I have to leave it hand tight only, which would result in a clunky front end once I ride it I believe.....

The "test" for good ball/roller-type ('friction-less') bearings is a smooth & quiet feel & sound.

If there's a rough or notchy feel or any roaring-type sound, when spun, -- not good.

I think I'll just spend the $30 and order a new set.

Probably a good idea.

Even reto-fitting the original ball-type bearings may be OK, too.

 

[frito1]

To me using only a torque setting to tighten tapered bearings isn't the best way to do business. A steering neck with tapered bearings is just a car spindle turned 90 degrees. tighten the bearings enough to remove all slack, the bearings should still turn freely, continue to tighten until you begin to get some resistance, then back it off just enough that it doesn't bind, then you're set. HD uses tapered bearings and a swing-away method for adjustment or uses a scale on the front wheel to measure the true amount of "stiction". Either way a torque wrench is not necessary. I've set, and watched career mechanics set, tapered bearings all my life. I've never seen anyone use a torque wrench.

JMHO YMMV

Just out of curiosity, since the FJR doesn't come with tapered bearings, what source did you get the torques values from?

 

[TomInPA]

I have found that Timken bearing races are much harder and more resistant to brinelling than All-Balls and some others. Also the bearing cages are metal rather than plastic. They cost more, and I assume you didn't use them the first time.

 

[SLK50]

Does anyone have the part numbers and a source for the Timken bearings handy?

TIA

 

[frito1]

Does anyone have the part numbers and a source for the Timken bearings handy?

TIA

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=124441&st=0&p=678905&hl=timken&fromsearch=1entry678905

Post #10

 

[dcarver]

 

[mattster31]

I have found that Timken bearing races are much harder and more resistant to brinelling than All-Balls and some others. Also the bearing cages are metal rather than plastic. They cost more, and I assume you didn't use them the first time.

Thanks for the responses guys! The first set was ALL BALLS (with steel bearing cages) so I am not sure what I did differently re-installing this time. Although I didn't really pay attention to the feel of the bearings when I removed them last fall. Anyways..........I just ordered another set (all balls).