Test and Maintain your ABS System

[dcarver]

Posted 17 March 2018 - 05:53 PM



ABS test coupler found here:

https://www.amazon.c...0?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I read everywhere that this part was no longer available from yamaha...
i intend to try it tmro and see how it goes.

 

[Brodie]

In a pinch all you need is a piece of 15 gage solid house wire stripped on both ends, hammered flat, and bent into a U shape. The other two leads arent used on a Gen 2 bike.

Brodie

 

[bigjohnsd]

Same on Gen 3 ?

 

[donaldb]

I'm going to knock the dust off this thread and see if I can get some ideas and maybe some help. I believe my ABS pump has a frozen valve that operates the rear brake. I have searched unsuccessfully to see if there is a thread here that addresses replacing the ABS pump, maybe there is, but I cannot find it. If there is one, then maybe someone could provide a helpful link. I'm still running my 04 Gen. 1 and pulling a trailer, and while I'm not overly concerned about the rear ABS failure while riding without the trailer, it becomes a bit more worrisome when I have all that trailer weight behind me while I tour. With that in mind I recently visited my local bike repair shop and inquired about the labor cost of replacing the ABS pump. They could not give me a price, they said they could not find this repair data in any of their software manuals. Not sure why, but in any event, this is why I'm here today inquiring if anybody knows of a thread here on this forum that addresses what is involved in the replacement of this ABS pump for Gen 1? I hope to find a used one in good working order and get a reasonable firm cost of labor to replace it. If I can't then I may think about selling the 04 as is and moving on to something else.

Best,

Bruce

 

[Fred W]

The labor involved is not that extensive. Swap the hydraulic block out and bleed, bleed, bleed. Worst case two hours labor would be my guess. The biggest expense is the part itself.

 

[dcarver]

The labor involved is not that extensive. Swap the hydraulic block out and bleed, bleed, bleed. Worst case two hours labor would be my guess. The biggest expense is the part itself.

Any chance of pre-filling the block on while on bench? Thinking of small hyd pp or vacuum pp set up?

 

[donaldb]

Thanks for the replies. These were my general thoughts as well. My local independent repair shop insists they can't find a labor time to perform this repair. I don't understand why that is, but it does not seem to be all that involved to me. While I replace brake fluid and bleed my system regularly, I'm not so sure I could perform this level of a brake service on my own without some experienced help. My repair shop wants me to bring it in and leave the repair time open and they will charge me for what ever time it takes, I'm a bit hesitant to do this under those terms.

So, this leads me to my next question, what years are interchangeable with this ABS module? Is it only the Gen 1 (04 & 05)?

I have seen a few pumps listed on ebay from parted out bikes for what I felt were reasonable prices and would not be opposed to purchasing. I just have not pulled the trigger because of my labor cost concerns.

 

[08FJR4ME]

Check a parts fishe between years. If the numbers match you will know.

Dave

 

[Fred W]

They won’t match. 2004/2005 ABS is different from later years by a very important detail. It only had two brake circuits. 2006 on had three circuits, one for the linked rear to front circuit. You will need to find one from another first gen. Problem with buying one on eBay is that you won’t know it is fully functional until it has been installed and tested on the bike. The new one goes for around $1000. Still available.

 

[donaldb]

I'm not in a hurry, maybe someone in the near future will part out a 04-05 and I can first inquire about its function before negotiating. Thanks for the help.

 

[rbentnail]

Just curious... but does the '04 have the ABS test connector fwd of the battery? Have you tried using the procedure in post #1 (I use method 2)? Some folks have reported that replacing brake fluid then cycling ABS manually over and over has freed what seemed to be a stuck valve.

 

[BigOgre]

Thanks for the replies. These were my general thoughts as well. My local independent repair shop insists they can't find a labor time to perform this repair. I don't understand why that is, but it does not seem to be all that involved to me. While I replace brake fluid and bleed my system regularly, I'm not so sure I could perform this level of a brake service on my own without some experienced help. My repair shop wants me to bring it in and leave the repair time open and they will charge me for what ever time it takes, I'm a bit hesitant to do this under those terms.

Something to keep in mind, and maybe your shop may not know this, but the '04 Service Manual only covered the non-ABS models. Can't speak to other years but in '04 they produced a Supplement ABS manual which dealt with just that.

 

[HIGHLANDER]

Just wanted to say thanks to Ionbeam for the tutorial, worked like a charm on my 2008.

I had 12.7 volts showing on the Datel and it wouldn’t work, it needs to be 12.8 at least, per the tutorial. I plugged in my trickle charger and everything went perfect, thanks again !

 

[mech 1 twa]

Just curious... but does the '04 have the ABS test connector fwd of the battery? Have you tried using the procedure in post #1 (I use method 2)? Some folks have reported that replacing brake fluid then cycling ABS manually over and over has freed what seemed to be a stuck valve.

Yes it does. Can be jumped to cycle ABS I'd try this first and flush system.

 

[NSrider]

Just testing my 08 today, everything works as described in the first post with the exception that the rear wheel only rotates once instead of twice.

 

[Droff]

I know this thread has been around awhile but it's aged well. I'm working on my '07 to get it on the road and just finished a brake/clutch fluid flush along with the ABS test described earlier. Ionbeam provided pretty much idiot proof guidance. Everything worked like a champ, got it all buttoned up and started. After a warm up and still on the center stand I dropped it into first gear and the ABS light started flashing. When I pull in the clutch or put it in neutral the light went off. I'm not having any error codes pop up either. While in gear with the rear wheel turning, it doesn't sound 'smooth' by any means.

Would the ABS light flash while in gear on the center stand? I searched here and online and was unable to find anything related to this.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

 

[Droff]

BTW. I have posted here before - in a previous life. Didn't realize the board was updated at some point and some info was reset.

Thanks.

 

[RossKean]

ABS senses a difference in speed between the front wheel and the rear wheel.

Doesn't like it when rear is turning and front is stopped.

 

[Droff]

ABS senses a difference in speed between the front wheel and the rear wheel.

Doesn't like it when rear is turning and front is stopped.

Good to know. I'll test it on the ground.
Thanks a TON.

 

[Droff]

Good to go. First ride in about a year and half.