Donal
Well-known member
If you're struggling to get hold of a test connector, just send a pic (of the mating socket on the bike) to Eastern Beaver. They will identify it and supply all the parts you need. 
Don
Don
Test and Maintain your ABS System
- Thread starter ionbeam
- Start date
Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
ionbeam
2 FUN
Thanks for pointing out my errors, I know better and try to keep my breaks, brakes, your, you're, peddle, pedal, to, too, two, etc straight. As one of the worlds worst speelers I reserve the right to butcher even simple words, at any time, without warning or remorse. Though I will correct any errors should I be able to see them or have them pointed out to me.
Your FJR did indeed react correctly by pulsing the lever, then the pedal and then the lever again. I will update the procedure to include the last lever pulse. The first test is to confirm that the ABS system is working, the second test is to give the Hydraulic Unit a workout. The FSM calls it a Reaction-Force pulsation action.
If the Test Coupler is no longer available but still in stock in some locations maybe we should buy and stockpile a few.
At < $10 for an assembled part I didn't think that there would be much advantage to buying parts from Eastern Beaver. But, in light of CC saying that the Yamaha OEM Test Coupler is no longer available, Eastern Beaver becomes the new supplier of choice.
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vabrzn
Well-known member
Thanks for the info!
RaYzerman19
Go Wings!
FYI... I got lazy and rather than do my own, ordered here too. Order was cancelled a couple of days later.... I presume because it is no longer available.
johnny80s
Turtle Gears
Thanks. This should be in the Bin o Facts.
wheatonFJR
...
I am fully willing to feed you next time yer in the neighborhood. waddulike?Could be. Willing to work for food.So is this "Test" going to be featured in a future video of an upcoming nor'easter FJR Tech Day??
yamafitter
Reigning NERDS Granite Lane Gold Medalist
If anyone has recieved the parts from Eastern Beaver could you please post the part numbers.If you're struggling to get hold of a test connector, just send a pic (of the mating socket on the bike) to Eastern Beaver. They will identify it and supply all the parts you need.
Don
Thanks.
Klunkshift
Well-known member
Yes, my order got cancelled too. It seems like this coupler is not available anymore.
I guess it would not be hard to build a jumper cable for temporary use during brake bleeding. Are those spade style connectors in the coupler residing in the FJR?
rushes
Well-known member
IME, he seems to favor lobstah and Irish eggs benedict (but not together, at the same time), and will consume good chowdah with gusto.I am fully willing to feed you next time yer in the neighborhood. waddulike?Could be. Willing to work for food.So is this "Test" going to be featured in a future video of an upcoming nor'easter FJR Tech Day??
Nice write up Ion.
wyowags
Well-known member
You da man Alan! Thanks for posting this.
When performing test 1, how much pressure should your helper need to put on the wheel to get it to move? Also should you be pressing hard on the rear brake? Its pulsing and doing everything as indicated, but it does not seem like the wheel wants to move. I got it to move when really pushing on it, but was wondering if the pedal is supposed to go up and thats what releases it? I figured it would all be internal? clarification appreciated
ionbeam
2 FUN
The rear brake pedal should be pressed until it stops moving and is firm, there is no need to crunch it. Both the brake lever and rear brake pedal should be held firmly, without release.When performing test 1, how much pressure should your helper need to put on the wheel to get it to move? Also should you be pressing hard on the rear brake? Its pulsing and doing everything as indicated, but it does not seem like the wheel wants to move. I got it to move when really pushing on it, but was wondering if the pedal is supposed to go up and thats what releases it? I figured it would all be internal? clarification appreciated
While test 1 is in process it operates the spool valve in the Hydraulic Block which will pressurize and depressurize the rear brake cylinder. Each pulse you feel in the brake pedal is the rear wheel cylinder being depressurized and releasing the rear brake. The rear wheel should turn as freely as it normally does during the 0.10 seconds while the rear brake is depressurized. The way the ABS system is designed as a fail-safe system it is highly unlikely that a dragging rear wheel is an ABS issue.
Put your FJR on the center stand, in neutral, and without doing anything (this is not an ABS test, just a straight forward, hands-on mechanical check) try to spin the rear wheel and note the spin resistance. Without doing anything, press the rear brake pedal until it stops moving and is firm; turn loose and release the pedal, then immediately try to spin the rear wheel while noting the spin resistance.
Did the rear wheel spin freely when you first put it on the center stand? Did it spin freely after pressing and releasing the brake pedal? It is *very* common for the rear brake pedal pivot to get dirty, and it results in a dragging rear brake. There is also the possibility that the rear brake caliper piston is dirty and not retracting properly when the pedal is released. Before going in to more troubleshooting, how did these couple of simple tests go?
The rear brake pedal and shift lever both should be fully disassembled and lubed regularly. A quick external spritz of oil will not get to the areas that need cleaning and lube, both complete assemblies need to come off and be completely disassembled.
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Fullchat
Well-known member
OK. Can someone describe exactly where this test coupler plugs into.
The description says that there is a socket above the battery.
I have a 06 Gen 2. There does not appear to be any spare sockets above or around the battery area.
The description says that there is a socket above the battery.
I have a 06 Gen 2. There does not appear to be any spare sockets above or around the battery area.
Crash Cash
Well-known member
I have an '07. It's quite well hidden. First of all, it's upside down with the cable pointing up. Second, it's clipped to a small metal piece so you have to release the little catch on the connector. It's at the forward-left corner of the battery. Mine has a weatherproof plug that was very very difficult to remove.
Fullchat
Well-known member
Ah there it is! Clearly obvious when you know.
Many thanks. I'm a Florida fan having done the theme parks for two years.
Many thanks. I'm a Florida fan having done the theme parks for two years.
BkrK12
Well-known member
Alan,
Thanks for culling this from the SM. This is the first thing I've done to the bike that was as easy as it sounds. The only problem was getting past the definitial difference between you and I as to which of the two blue wires is "sky" blue. One false start fixed that.
Dan
PS It's nice to know the ABS functions. Now having exercise it a few times, I think I'll reflush the brakes.
Thanks for culling this from the SM. This is the first thing I've done to the bike that was as easy as it sounds. The only problem was getting past the definitial difference between you and I as to which of the two blue wires is "sky" blue. One false start fixed that.
Dan
PS It's nice to know the ABS functions. Now having exercise it a few times, I think I'll reflush the brakes.
BkrK12
Well-known member
Alan,
Abject apologies for questioning your hue discrimination. If I had looked at your diagram, I would have seen that the wires were next to each other, not diagonally opposed. Color discrimination should have been irrelevant. Jersey boys need to stick together.
Dan
Abject apologies for questioning your hue discrimination. If I had looked at your diagram, I would have seen that the wires were next to each other, not diagonally opposed. Color discrimination should have been irrelevant. Jersey boys need to stick together.
Dan
Fullchat
Well-known member
Well I've been through both tests and everything pulses as it should.
I was on my own and managed to put some force on the back wheel by reaching back to it but it didn't move. Maybe it need more force than I could apply in the position I was in.
The only query I have is that the workshop manual indicates that the ABS warning light should flash then go off. Mine flashed constantly whilst the jumper block was connected.
I was on my own and managed to put some force on the back wheel by reaching back to it but it didn't move. Maybe it need more force than I could apply in the position I was in.
The only query I have is that the workshop manual indicates that the ABS warning light should flash then go off. Mine flashed constantly whilst the jumper block was connected.
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