The "dreaded Tick" Solved?

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All the evidence pointed to no common factor contributing to valve guide wear.

Either you get a ticker (1 in 7 or so) or you don't. Ride it.

Hopefully, the long overdue fix will come out soon (as mentioned above).

 
Mine was noticed as early as 2500 miles. Not extreme ticking like she has now at 9000. Slated for repair in January. Power is down and white smoke from right tail pipe on occasion. Man I want an '06!

Side note: I'm not a FNG anymore! WOOOHOOO! Slapnpop I'm gonna slap you upside your head at next EOM for these titles! I've been riding all my life and I'm now a student pilot?

 
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Side note: I'm not a FNG anymore! WOOOHOOO! Slapnpop I'm gonna slap you upside your head at next EOM for these titles! I've been riding all my life and I'm now a student pilot?
Those would come from heir Warchild, not me.

 
OK fine! Dale aka Warchild you've been ***** slapped for the titles! Sorry Slapnpop thought you were the culprit!

 
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drunk03.jpg


If a valve did not have adequate or appropriate prelube on the stem it would be very susceptable to scuffing and scoring when the engine was green
Yamaha has just discovered that no tickers were built on days this part-time factory worker was off. If you bike was made on Tuesday or Friday it will tick. Kaito Dani Hebereke was a stem luber.

 
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Why would the average person go and spend $14000.00 plus on a bike and not follow the advice of the engineers that have the education and research data to prove and tell you the proper way to break your bike, so you will be able to enjoy it trouble free for many years. Just an educational thought

weekend rider :clap: :clap: :clap:

 
Why would the average person go and spend $14000.00 plus on a bike and not follow the advice of the engineers that have the education and research data to prove and tell you the proper way to break your bike, so you will be able to enjoy it trouble free for many years. Just an educational thought

weekend rider :clap: :clap: :clap:
yea, but...but...you're just a weekend rider so there! :p

-r

 
My bike has developed a noise @ 3800 rpms that sounds like a playing card hitting bicycle spokes. I don't hear it any other time. Sound familiar to anyone?

Wagman

 
Why would the average person go and spend $14000.00 plus on a bike and not follow the advice of the engineers that have the education and research data to prove and tell you the proper way to break your bike, so you will be able to enjoy it trouble free for many years.  Just an educational thought

    weekend rider    :clap:    :clap:    :clap:
So tell us where doing a motoman break in goes against the advice of the owners manual? I've never spoke with any of the Yamaha egineers to get their advice, but according to my owners manual a motoman break in is well within the perimeter for a proper break in procedure.

 
If the problem is just the seals.....
Mark, I was at Sunnyside Yamaha a couple of weeks ago and discussed this issue with Dan Denchel and much to my surprise, he said that most of the "tickers" they had fixed only had one bad exhaust valve guide although a couple had had two bad guides. I had thought that Warchild's Timex had 4 bad guides but Dan said he thought that only 2 guides on that bike were bad.
Yeah! Are we talking about guides? I don't really know what a valve "seal' is. As far as I know is either guide or "seat" (against the head in the combustion chamber).....

 
A valve seal is basically a fancy o-ring that sits at the top of the valve guide and controls oil flow from the top end of the engine down the valve stem and into the guide. Seals are designed to provide a small amount of controlled oil flow down the guide to lubricate it, but without excessive oil consumption. The premise here is that Yamaha erred too far on the side of low oil consumption with the original FJR engine seals.

- Mark

 
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