odot
CC member # 17,----- DUP member # 7, mensa club m
You probably need a new battery.
Yes. Everything that you've said is correct.I suppose what I'm trying to say (or rather, ask) is: On your 1st gen bike, with the air bypass screws closed, and your idle adjusted up to 1000 RPM, your throttle plates are open more a bit more than on my 2nd gen bike under the same circumstances, correct? Or am I way off base here?
Hi Fred,Yes. Everything that you've said is correct.I suppose what I'm trying to say (or rather, ask) is: On your 1st gen bike, with the air bypass screws closed, and your idle adjusted up to 1000 RPM, your throttle plates are open more a bit more than on my 2nd gen bike under the same circumstances, correct? Or am I way off base here?
Here's what I would do on a 2nd gen:
Adjust your idle speed first, before closing down the air screws, then don't touch it (until the very end).
Next, close down all 4 air screws and use the throttle itself, possible with a throttle locking device of some kind to hold it, maintain a decent idle speed while adjusting the throttle plates. The idle speed for the throttle plate adjustment isn't critical.
After you are happy with that vacuum balance, open each of the 4 air screws an equal amount. Try 1 turn first.
If the idle is too high, close each of the 4 air screws an equal (small) amount. Conversely, if the idle is too low open the 4 an equal amount. Either way, don't worry about the balance until you get your speed to ~1100 rpm.
Finally make adjustments to the individual air screws to balance them. They should be very close already.
Note, that even after adjustment, there will be some amount of engine vibration present, so your last observation about the cause being the thing between your ears is entirely possible.
Yes!Great procedure Fred, but I have a few questions that I did not see in your first writeup:
1. Is it recommended to have a baseline rpm of 1,100 first?
Should not matter.2. Should the plugs be changed before starting this procedure?
Yes, for sure. I've started with a cold engine and the gauge hooked up and watched the vacuums as the bike warmed up fully, and it does seem to matter. So since you usually ride it warmed up, that is where you'll want to adjust it.3. Should the engine be warmed up before starting the procedure?
Thanks for a great writeup.
It would kind of depend on how far out of sync it was before the adjustment. If it was already good before hand it would be harder to make it much better, right?I must be one of the only people on this forum who noticed none, nada, zilch difference after doing the TBS, authorized or not. All these posts about people having a whole different bike after doing the RDCUATBS really depress me. I should stop reading them.
Carry on.
well, you're probably right. I re-sync'ed it and didn't have to make much of a change. Tonight I went for a long ride and the bike seemed fine. Still seems sluggish from when I first bought it but perhaps it's the 50,000 age or mt ever-increasing fat ass.Dude, you are over-thinking this thing way too much. And imagining things too, no doubt. Obsession is not a good thing.
Adjusting the 3rd cylinder screw is no different than adjusting the other three. It didn't cause your engine to sack out. What the absolute reading is on your vacuum gauge is not significant. You have no ability whatsoever to change that.
Take the ride and enjoy it and stop worrying yourself about nothing.
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