The Repair and Upgrades Begin

[Low Level FJR Pilot]

Ripped the front end and fenders off a few days ago. I replaced the stay and cleaned up the windscreen cables. While I was pulling the headlight assembly, I found that the Left adjuster plastic had broken in half. I went to Partzilla and found that that part is on a very long backorder from Yamaha so black JB Weld it was. I have all the rest of the parts I need so it's going back together after I send the lower cowlings, right saddlebag cover, and mirrors off for paint. While I had everything off I changed the anti-freeze, oil, rear end oil, and spark plugs. I still need to flush the brake and clutch fluid. I am also rerouting some of the wire work I did earlier to make it neater and easier to work on later. I am also rewiring the second horn as it used to run in front of the radiator and was rather ugly.

I ordered a Brydenstock shelf and will install that. I have a set of Two Brothers Carbon Fibers which I'm doing a repack on and will install those last. One more thing I need to do is install my STS Smart Turn system while I have the front off and I can get to the cables easier. I have the connectors and wire, I just need to set aside time to build it all. Let's see if my Electronics Tech training from the Navy will come back. Then it goes to the stealership to have a new set of Michelin tires spooned on. Once all is back together, I plan on doing a late summer, early fall road trip to continue what I couldn't finish last year when I dropped it and broke the stay. I was planning on getting this all done last summer but too many other priorities got in the way. Thanks again to other forum member posts regarding pulling the fairing.

 

[SkooterG]

Ouch!

 

[bonami00]

waw, my total respect

 

[Rocnsanman]

Ripped the front end and fenders off a few days ago. I replaced the stay and cleaned up the windscreen cables. While I was pulling the headlight assembly, I found that the Left adjuster plastic had broken in half. I went to Partzilla and found that that part is on a very long backorder from Yamaha so black JB Weld it was. I have all the rest of the parts I need so it's going back together after I send the lower cowlings, right saddlebag cover, and mirrors off for paint. While I had everything off I changed the anti-freeze, oil, rear end oil, and spark plugs. I still need to flush the brake and clutch fluid. I am also rerouting some of the wire work I did earlier to make it neater and easier to work on later. I am also rewiring the second horn as it used to run in front of the radiator and was rather ugly.

I ordered a Brydenstock shelf and will install that. I have a set of Two Brothers Carbon Fibers which I'm doing a repack on and will install those last. One more thing I need to do is install my STS Smart Turn system while I have the front off and I can get to the cables easier. I have the connectors and wire, I just need to set aside time to build it all. Let's see if my Electronics Tech training from the Navy will come back. Then it goes to the stealership to have a new set of Michelin tires spooned on. Once all is back together, I plan on doing a late summer, early fall road trip to continue what I couldn't finish last year when I dropped it and broke the stay. I was planning on getting this all done last summer but too many other priorities got in the way. Thanks again to other forum member posts regarding pulling the fairing.


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Wow, Hats off to you, heck of a project. Good luck

 

[MotoMike]

I was wondering what there was to be found behind the headlights and nose cone. Now I know.

 

[Coachpilot]

If I were that far, I would DEF put some tapered steering head bearings in it! I'm yet to hear of anyone on this site that says it didn't help the overall steering AND eliminate decelerating head shake if there is any.

 

[Low Level FJR Pilot]

If I were that far, I would DEF put some tapered steering head bearings in it! I'm yet to hear of anyone on this site that says it didn't help the overall steering AND eliminate decelerating head shake if there is any.

The bike only has a bit over 15K on it. No issues with the steering. I may do something way later down the road. Now that I know how to disassemble the bike it should be too hard.

 

[bonami00]

The bike only has a bit over 15K on it. No issues with the steering. I may do something way later down the road. Now that I know how to disassemble the bike it should be too hard.

can not argue with that

 

[RossKean]

If I were that far, I would DEF put some tapered steering head bearings in it! I'm yet to hear of anyone on this site that says it didn't help the overall steering AND eliminate decelerating head shake if there is any.

No question that I would replace my original bearings with tapered ones if mine were damaged (wear, brinelling, contamination, corrosion) or if I had issues with headshake upon deceleration. Haven't so far in almost 450,000 km on two Gen II FJRs.

 

[Coachpilot]

My 2017ES shook on decel from 40mph down to 25. And on cruise control at 35. Changed to new Dunlop RoadSmart-4 and that only raised the shake 'window' up to 35 and 50. Bought it with 5k miles and now has 10k. When I get a few days, it's off to the garage for some bearing replacements. Some shake more than others. Mine shakes, must have been built on a Monday!

 

[RossKean]

My 2017ES shook on decel from 40mph down to 25. And on cruise control at 35. Changed to new Dunlop RoadSmart-4 and that only raised the shake 'window' up to 35 and 50. Bought it with 5k miles and now has 10k. When I get a few days, it's off to the garage for some bearing replacements. Some shake more than others. Mine shakes, must have been built on a Monday!

Hope the bearing does it for you.
Other than the tires, have you done anything else?
First thing I would do is make very sure that both forks are at the same height in the upper clamp.
Make sure that both upper and lower pinch clamps are torqued correctly.
Verify that the steering head bearing is torqued to spec.
Next, I would loosen the front axle bolt and the four pinch bolts (bike on center stand). Bounce the front vigorously several times, compressing the front suspension. Tighten in the order specified in the FSM. Excerpt below for Gen II although I don't think it matters which Gen.
Might not make a difference but worth a try.
Tires have fixed quite a few (including one bad front tire I had). Adjustment has fixed a few as well but I would love to know what is fundamentally wrong with those that these things don't fix. Nothing inherently wrong with non-tapered bearings - they work just fine for most people.

 

[Coachpilot]

Hope the bearing does it for you.
Other than the tires, have you done anything else?
First thing I would do is make very sure that both forks are at the same height in the upper clamp.
Make sure that both upper and lower pinch clamps are torqued correctly.
Verify that the steering head bearing is torqued to spec.
Next, I would loosen the front axle bolt and the four pinch bolts (bike on center stand). Bounce the front vigorously several times, compressing the front suspension. Tighten in the order specified in the FSM. Excerpt below for Gen II although I don't think it matters which Gen.
Might not make a difference but worth a try.
Tires have fixed quite a few (including one bad front tire I had). Adjustment has fixed a few as well but I would love to know what is fundamentally wrong with those that these things don't fix. Nothing inherently wrong with non-tapered bearings - they work just fine for most people.

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Thanks for the insight and taking the time to address this. Actually, I've done them ALL... even bought the special tool to properly torque the steering head (to be used with a quality torque wrench). When I started to search the problem, I was floored at how many bikes (even from day one) have this problem. I was also floored by how many do not! ...and, before finding a solution, no one has a real reason for why! I also done tire pressures, changing luggage load, removing bags (wind induced). It's the ONLY thing I can say that actually sucks about this bike. P.S. It only happens if you have no hands on the bars, so I keep at least one hand when decel. Not a big deal... but maybe why yours doesn't is because I'm a bit more careless!!

 

[RossKean]

Not a big deal... but maybe why yours doesn't is because I'm a bit more careless!!

While I (almost) always have at least one hand on the bars, I do check for oscillation and for tracking to one side or another from time to time. If I noticed any head shake upon deceleration, I would most certainly want to resolve it and might end out with the tapered bearing if other avenues failed to get me anywhere.

 

[Dale Martin]

I was wondering what there was to be found behind the headlights and nose cone. Now I know.

Those pictures should discourage anyone considering making a naked street fighter out of a crashed FJR. Where do you even begin to hide all that mess!

 

[Coachpilot]

While I (almost) always have at least one hand on the bars, I do check for oscillation and for tracking to one side or another from time to time. If I noticed any head shake upon deceleration, I would most certainly want to resolve it and might end out with the tapered bearing if other avenues failed to get me anywhere.

Try taking your hands about 1/8" or 1/16" off bars on a3rd gear decel from 50 to 25... I'm curious if you get any slight shake/oscillation at the grips.

 

[RossKean]

Try taking your hands about 1/8" or 1/16" off bars on a3rd gear decel from 50 to 25... I'm curious if you get any slight shake/oscillation at the grips.

I don't get noticeable oscillation... (I said ALMOST always - except when checking stuff like headshake or tracking)

 

[Priscillag Saunders]

Regarding the Two Brothers Carbon Fiber exhaust, a repack is always a good idea to keep them running smoothly. When it comes to the STS Smart Turn system, installing it while the front is off is a perfect opportunity, and your Electronics Tech training should certainly come in handy for wiring. Don’t forget, once everything is reassembled, your bike will need the bearings to be in good shape, especially in the wheels and any components you’ve worked with like the horn and other systems.