Re ES suspension: First, correcting a typo, the sentence should read "I bought an ES expecting to get approximately the same degree of suspension management as I experienced with a BMW RT (boxer motor). Maybe I'd get it if the front suspension could be changed as the back suspension is."
Second, to clarify, The ES system does work on the rear suspension, going from "marshmallow comfy" to "kick your butt". However, unless I've totally misread everything written about the ES' management of the FJR suspension, the front end stays as it was setup mechanically. Or... the back end changes, the front end doesn't. By comparison, the RT can be reduced to "almost disconnected from the road" front and back (very disconcerting to not have any distinct road feel).
Regional road quality, crappy roads are where you find them. I encountered a stretch of AZ road that was milled but not repaved. Compared to the majority of AZ roads I've met, that milled bit was the smoothest stretch of the lot. Rough is where you find it.