This and That

[Kneedragger55]

Lost a Yamaha side emblem from the interior of the chrome bumper on one side bag. Is my only option to pay $50 for an entire new bumper?? That kinda sucks. Any cooler aftermarket replacements?

Next unrelated question, rear wheel is off for a new tire. Should I pack the gear (is that technically the ring gear?) with moly on reassembly? Never worked on a drive shaft bike before, but that seems like the right thing to do.

 

[Niehart]

If you bought the extended warranty, Yamaha will pay for it.

 

[Pterodactyl]

I got just the rubber piece for $8.

Have you checked any of the online parts schematics?

Edit: I just checked yamahapartshouse.com and it did not show the rubber emblem as a separate part. Guess I had a parts guy at my local dealer that knew how to get one. I only checked a 2015 schematic. Perhaps it is available for other years.

 

[Redfish Hunter]

Check back to an earlier Gen2 schematic. The 2007 schematic will allow you to purchase just that black sticker. The Gen 3 requires you to buy the entire thing.

 

[Niehart]

Just check the moly on the ring gear. It does not take much and if you put to much on, it will find it's was to your rims.

 

[Kneedragger55]

Check back to an earlier Gen2 schematic. The 2007 schematic will allow you to purchase just that black sticker. The Gen 3 requires you to buy the entire thing.

Will do, I checked RMATV 2013 schematic and they only sell the entire bumper. Guessing the Gen II black sticker is the same? If they sell separate maybe I can buy two cheapies just to be sure. Moly looked good when I disassembled, will add another small glob when it goes back on.

 

[HotRodZilla]

The black rubber part is the same, so a GenII part will work for you.

 

[mcatrophy]

...Next unrelated question, rear wheel is off for a new tire. Should I pack the gear (is that technically the ring gear?) with moly on reassembly? Never worked on a drive shaft bike before, but that seems like the right thing to do.

...

Just a smear.
Pics below taken after the first shaft removal of my '14. I didn't add any, just buttoned it up with the factory amount. Some FJRs come dry, put a smear on if yours is one of those.

(Click on image for larger view)



While you're there, pull the drive shaft (the four acorn nuts), check the splines:



I put on a smear of Castrol LM to reduce the rusting.

When you put the shaft back in, keep your finger clear of the seating faces.

 

[rbentnail]

...Next unrelated question, rear wheel is off for a new tire. Should I pack the gear (is that technically the ring gear?) with moly on reassembly? Never worked on a drive shaft bike before, but that seems like the right thing to do.

...

Just a smear.
Pics below taken after the first shaft removal of my '14. I didn't add any, just buttoned it up with the factory amount. Some FJRs come dry, put a smear on if yours is one of those.

(Click on image for larger view)



While you're there, pull the drive shaft (the four acorn nuts), check the splines:



I put on a smear of Castrol LM to reduce the rusting.

When you put the shaft back in, keep your finger clear of the seating faces.

In addition, pull the left foot peg cover stuff to pull the universal joint out. The splines on the transmission output shaft could likely use a clean/lube.

 

[Kneedragger55]

...Next unrelated question, rear wheel is off for a new tire. Should I pack the gear (is that technically the ring gear?) with moly on reassembly? Never worked on a drive shaft bike before, but that seems like the right thing to do.

...

Just a smear.
Pics below taken after the first shaft removal of my '14. I didn't add any, just buttoned it up with the factory amount. Some FJRs come dry, put a smear on if yours is one of those.

(Click on image for larger view)



While you're there, pull the drive shaft (the four acorn nuts), check the splines:



I put on a smear of Castrol LM to reduce the rusting.

When you put the shaft back in, keep your finger clear of the seating faces.

My rear drive looked just like that. Yea I read the "things you should check at 600 miles" thread and the drive spline was one of them. Saying that most have insufficient moly from the factory. I've been thinking about it but was honestly kind of intimidated. Fairly easy? I have a service manual. Anything particular I should check for besides just thread wear and grease? Pack it back with a considerable amount?

 

[Kneedragger55]

In addition, pull the left foot peg cover stuff to pull the universal joint out. The splines on the transmission output shaft could likely use a clean/lube.

Ok ok enough LOL. Sounds and looks easy enough. I'll tear into that tonight. You guys won't desert me once I get this thing apart will you??

 

[dcarver]

Kneedraggerwho?

 

[mcatrophy]

... Pack it back with a considerable amount?

No, just a smear, enough to "wet" the surfaces of the splines. If yours looks like mine, no need for any more.
I also always ensure the bearing seals are cleaned, and I put a little Castrol LM on those. Again, don't "pack", just "wet". Excess grease tends to find its way to where you don't want it, like on the rear tyre.

 

[Kneedragger55]

Ok so I read through most of the fjrtips website spline removal etc (great info there!) and it looks like it's not really necessary to remove the drive shaft from the pumpkin? He's saying that the back end of the driveshaft technically gets lubed with the final drive oil, so really there's no need to check and clean that end as often as the front end. Considering I'm only at 12k miles and the rear drive by the wheel looks really clean I can likely get away with skipping the entire driveshaft removal? Thoughts? Maybe knock that out every 3rd tire change or so...

 

[mcatrophy]

No one seems to have had any issue caused by lack of lubrication of any part of the FJR final drive train. Do whatever makes you feel comfortable, the bike will be fine.

 

[s.ga.rider]

I lost that same piece on my 14. Just the rubber decal isnt much. The other side was peeling off too so I put a dab of adhesive on it.

I lubed the splines on my 07 when I had it. They were completely dry and rusted. I put some honda moly on it. When I change the rear on the 14 im going to check it. From what I remember you take the 4 acorns off and it comes out. Fairly simple.

 

[Kneedragger55]

Pulled the pumpkin earlier which was easy, everything was pretty clean and well greased after 12k miles. Wiped off the spline and regreased with lithium. Couldn't get the footpeg off due to the astronomically large torx head on the front, which I didn't have. I could see the universal pretty well from underneath once I pulled the shaft out and it looked a tad dry but fairly clean. Shouldn't be any worries since I greased the spline. Putting the shaft back in was a pain though because the universal joint sagged some when I pulled the shaft and wouldn't sit back up and line up. After some strong finagling and propping it up underneath with a screwdriver it went in. All back together and hopefully it won't fall apart. Changed the final drive fluid too, it needed it. Thanks fellas.

 

[rbentnail]

Right, no need to pull the drive shaft out of the punkin.

IMHO you did most of the job fine but you'll need to get a wrench to fit "the astronomically large torx head on the front" so you can pull the universal joint, too. There's another splined shaft it goes on to on the other end of it, it's called something like 'the transmission output shaft'. Whatever- it needs a clean/lube job once in a while.

Is that rust I see on your wheel spacer? Did you clean it? Did you clean/lube your axle before re-assembly? If you didn't, it will get more difficult to remove next time. Some folks have been known to have to beat it out.

 

[Kneedragger55]

Yes the wheel spacer had a spot or two of rust, nothing major. Didn't reassemble the wheels yet, waiting to pick them up today with fresh rubber. Trust me, I ALWAYS clean the axles and put on a tad bit of grease. I own too many dirtbikes to not know better. And yea I'll be looking for a torx head that'll fit the peg and will be sure to pull that next time as well.