Throttle body sync up

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fjrbird

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I'm new to FJR and read some other Internet site about doing throttle body sync up while changing spark plugs. What is the throttle body sync up for and does GEN II need that service as well? Thanks in advance.

 
I'm new to FJR and read some other Internet site about doing throttle body sync up while changing spark plugs. What is the throttle body sync up for and does GEN II need that service as well? Thanks in advance.
Yes the Gen II needs it. It's not hard to do, taking about 20 minutes or so the second time you do it (bit of a learning curve from the first time).

Here's a description of the task, with pictures: CLICKY

 
It's not hard to do, taking about 20 minutes or so the second time you do it

I meant to type 30 but even that was probably a bit of an underestimate, lol. Definitely quicker the second time though. :p

 
Tip: Contact Dave for his Wynpro block off plates to remove the AIS crap. They make the nipples easier to get to for sure. So many dirty jokes, had to pass, it would have been cheap. Anyway, it'll clean up that whole area and make your plug change easier, the sync easier and any valve checks easier. I'm about to order mine because I learned my lesson on my last sync.

 
I'm new to FJR and read some other Internet site about doing throttle body sync up while changing spark plugs. What is the throttle body sync up for and does GEN II need that service as well? Thanks in advance.
I used to do my Gen I at every plug change and it needed it every time. The Gen II seems to hold much better sync. I only check it every other plug change, and its not off enough to worry about. Just turned 77K on the Gen II.

 
thanks for the link Apostate! It looks pretty simple. Mine has 23k miles and I'll find sometime to check the plugs and also do this TBS. You guys rock. :)

 
My '10 was out at the 600, 4000, 8000, and 12,000. Not sure why they do not hold sync but my tech said it is very normal. Now they use a electronic sync tool so it is really down to brass tacks. I have my motion pro and will check on the 16,000 that I am going to do myself.

After all the pics of gunked butterfly's I am wondering if that has something to do with it?

 
Another fng. I'm trying to do the throttle body Sync. I have the 4 gauge tester. The word is to have the throttle bodies set to 250 mm and idle at 1100 to 1000 rpm. To reach the 250 mm the adjustment screws are way out. Like one to two threads showing on the screws. Is this normal?

Thanks.

 
Another fng. I'm trying to do the throttle body Sync. I have the 4 gauge tester. The word is to have the throttle bodies set to 250 mm and idle at 1100 to 1000 rpm. To reach the 250 mm the adjustment screws are way out. Like one to two threads showing on the screws. Is this normal?

Thanks.
The 250 mm is nominal (and is dependent on elevation and other atmospheric conditions), it is much more important to equalize your four throttle bodies; a good way to get to a starting point (if the 250 mm is not easily achieved with enough adjusted room in or out) is to set number 3 throttle body to 1 1/2 turns from seated and adjust off of #3 to the others.

 
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Thank you! I used the #3 as the start point but the 250 mm on the gauges left the adjustment way out. I'll do the 1 1/2 turns on 3 then set the rest to the #3 vac level. This is why I joined this group so I didn't feel alone.

Again, thank you!

 
At around 7000 miles the bike had no symptoms of needing a sync, but I thought I better check it ('10). They were so close I could have left them alone, tweaked one or two just to get them spot on.

 
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