Throttle bounce

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dcumpian

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Location
King William, VA
My 2018 FJR1300A is the first fuel-injected bike I've owned. On rougher roads where the asphalt crews were drinking and paving, I can get a bounce in the throttle, where the throttle can close and open again. This happens when I'm in sport mode. In tour mode, it's easier to control. I've only put 1200 miles on the bike since I bought it, so I'm sure I'll get better with the throttle control over time, but is this something others have dealt with before?

Regards,
Dan

 
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Not sure what you are describing but wonder if it is related to the traction control function? Power reduced if slippage is detected and comes back when slippage stops. Could be this if it only happens on rough roads.

 
Hi Dan.....I'm sitting here drinking my first cup of coffee trying to imagine what you are experiencing. I don't think either of my FJRs (an '11 and now my '14) have ever done that, something isn't quite right.

 
It's not the bike, unless I set the suspension too hard and it's making me bounce. I'm pretty sure it is me. I'm just not used to such a sensitive throttle. Bumps can make my wrist pull then close the throttle briefly. I've heard of people doing a "spring mod" or even putting a throttle tamer that changes the throttle cam shape. I don't want to do that if it is something I can change in my riding position or adjust in the front forks.

I think I may have gone too far in stiffening up the suspension...

Regards,
Dan

 
I think what the OP is describing is where a big bump in the road causes the throttle to move (either open or close) which then causes the throttle hand to do the opposite. It results in a choppy on-off-on throttle oscillation.

Ive never really experienced it on a street bike, but it has happened to me off road in really rough sections. I think it mostly happens when you have a death-grip on the throttle and your arms are tensed.

My suggestion is to try and loosen up your arms and grip a little. And running in Touring mode sometimes is ok too. It just means you have to twist the grip further to get to the same amount of power.

 
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My thoughts exactly - you don't need much pressure on the throttle to hold it steady, but here's an idea: hold it while your hand is over the bar-end, so you can steady it against that and prevent movement with the bumps. Or, grab the switch housing or brake pivot firmly while holding the throttle. See if either of these reduce what you're describing. If so, you know where the problem lies....

 
Some of these back roads where I live are pretty rough and I'm still not relaxed enough yet when riding, so I'm sure "death grip" is probably a good description, lol. Just to be clear, these are not pot holes, it's just a very uneven road surface. To top it off, the paver the county used when paving these laid the asphalt in wobbly grooves...looks like it was poured off the back of a truck and half-assed rolled over. On good roads, I'm fine, though I'm still working on my cornering skills. 25 years off a bike made me really rusty...

Regards,
Dan

 
I would agree with others and yourself, sounds like to much pressure on the bars. At any given time, except when putting both feet down for a stop, I can take both hands off the bars and never change my body position. The muscles in the lower body, back and abdomen allow us to relax our chest, shoulders, neck and arms. When I went off riding for about 8 years it took a few months to build back up (I'm getting old so it took a while!). BTW, I have a stretch of road close to the house that sounds very similar to yours. They paved it with chip seal, made it worse, and seems like only a bunch of drunks could have screwed it up that bad. In the wobbly grooves, if the bike seems to want to follow these grooves, that can also get us putting grip pressure on the bars, but I'm sure your FJR slides through them on it's own if we relax.

 
Heh. I lived in coastal VA when I was a squid, many years ago. The worst road conditions in Virginia are about the same as the very best roads in New Hampshire. It does give one a good reason to learn how to properly adjust the suspension. ;)

 
Heh. I lived in coastal VA when I was a squid, many years ago. The worst road conditions in Virginia are about the same as the very best roads in New Hampshire. It does give one a good reason to learn how to properly adjust the suspension.
wink.png
I plan to do some of that this weekend. When I picked it up from the dealer, it rode wwaaayyy to soft for me. May have gone a tiny bit to far the other way...can't go visit the White Mountains until I get in a good place with the suspension.

Regards,

Dan

 
If you're open to *really* learning, pick up the book "sport riding techniques" by Nick Ienatsch and Kenny Roberts. There are a few concepts in there that *dramatically* improved my skill and confidence in a short amount of time.

 
If you're open to *really* learning, pick up the book "sport riding techniques" by Nick Ienatsch and Kenny Roberts. There are a few concepts in there that *dramatically* improved my skill and confidence in a short amount of time.
Great suggestion!

 
Yeah, but...

What sport riders find acceptable are not necessarily what real world road riders do. Much of what I have read and digested through the years that was put out by anyone professing to be a sport rider, suspension "guru" (or even worse, an on track racer) is completely wrong in my opinion for normal street riders. Mainly as it relates to suspension compliance. But yet, that is what people hold up as suspension gospel.

Suspension compliance is always a compromise. The perfect suspension for all situations that could ever happen has not,yet been invented. Racers and serious sport riders have very specific goals that do not necessarily correlate to normal street riders, or sport touring riders, or even on street sport bike riders, especially any of those those that ride on sub-par road surfaces.

If anyone is actually interested, I will go on and explain further, but for now, lets just see who cares...

 
Yeah, but...
What sport riders find acceptable are not necessarily what real world road riders do. Much of what I have read and digested through the years that was put out by anyone professing to be a sport rider, suspension "guru" (or even worse, an on track racer) is completely wrong in my opinion for normal street riders. Mainly as it relates to suspension compliance. But yet, that is what people hold up as suspension gospel.

Suspension compliance is always a compromise. The perfect suspension for all situations that could ever happen has not,yet been invented. Racers and serious sport riders have very specific goals that do not necessarily correlate to normal street riders, or sport touring riders, or even on street sport bike riders, especially any of those those that ride on sub-par road surfaces.

If anyone is actually interested, I will go on and explain further, but for now, lets just see who cares...
In adjusting my own suspension, I've come to realize that it will never be perfect in every situation. I think that's what the ES tries to address, but I wanted a "set it and forget it" bike. I'm close, but I think it is still too harsh on the front. Fortunately, I always ride solo, so once I find a setting that works in *most* situations, I'll stop.

I'm also rusty as hell, so I'm having to relearn a lot of skills along with how different the FJR is to bikes I've owned in the past. I love the bike...it is a fantastic combination of sportiness and function.

Regards,

Dan

 
Sport mode can be pretty abrupt Dan. When you twist the throttle, the bike flat moves! I'd resort to tour mode for the time being while those rusty skills come back to you. Check throttle cable slack too...that's good advice.

Unless I'm in a hurry or in hooligan mode, my '15 stays in tour mode.

--G

 
Sport mode can be pretty abrupt Dan. When you twist the throttle, the bike flat moves! I'd resort to tour mode for the time being while those rusty skills come back to you. Check throttle cable slack too...that's good advice.
Unless I'm in a hurry or in hooligan mode, my '15 stays in tour mode.

--G
I enjoy T mode when I'm in traffic because it is easier to handle at lights. Out of town, or on the highways, S mode is usually what I use. It's these lane and a half back country roads where I still have to learn better throttle control, lol.

Dan

 
I experienced the same effect when riding on the cobblestone streets in old town on my V-strom in the 1st gear. It was my hand which could not stay fixed on the throttle due to the heavy movement of the handlebar.

 
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