Throttle position sensor

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Just to put myself on record, last night I found my '04 FJR with the before mentioned symptoms. Moving along in slow traffic, just off idle on the throttle, 2500-3000 RPM. At first I thought I must be having a stroke, and my throttle control had gone to hell. :lol: However, when it started trying to buck me off, I knew better. The internet is a wonderful thing. Because of it, I knew with almost no doubt what I was experiencing. I did the diagnostic, and sure enough, I am set to 15 on idle, but at 17 or 18, all sorts of shit starts happening. It bounces all over the place, from 20 all the way down to about 4. I talked to Seth at Sunnyside today, a new TPS is on it's way, and soon all will be well. A further interesting note was that when I talked to Seth, he said that they had a FJR in the shop for a valve check, and after that, were to investigate a problem just as I was describing. I asked him how many miles on that bike, and as I remember, he said it was just under 26,000. Mine just hit 26,800. Just something to watch for I guess.

 
Silverbullit I thought i had the same problem and did the TPS test several times and did the test when the bike was hot and doing the surge thing and the test was negative.My problem ended up being the sidestand switch so now that it's fixed the TPS will probably go bad next week.My bike has 27000 miles.

 
Nice to know others have gone through this PIA.(well kinda) I had the same deal as RTSR1, about 2 months ago, while just cruising along, the bike just cut out, just like someone hit the kill switch, into the dealer it went, could not find anything.

After that, no problems until yesterday; very warm day, riding 2 up, all is well for the better part of 3.5 hrs, around the finger lakes area, and then it hit, approx 3500 revs, and it cut out,(WTF!!!) pulled in clutch, revved it back up, cut out again, pulled in clutch, revved it back up......(you get the idea), pulled over, shut the bike off for a few moments, got back on, did not act up the rest of the day. Made me think it was electrical, I checked the diag screen when I got home, no issues showing. I think i'm going to order a TBS, and put it on, in hopes of not having this issue again.

 
I checked the diag screen when I got home, no issues showing. I think i'm going to order a TBS, and put it on, in hopes of not having this issue again
That's expensive shotgun troubleshooting. If you can access the diag screen then you are 3/5 the way to testing the TPS (this is what you mean, right? ;) ). It is just a simple matter to twist the throttle and watch the screen, see post #3 in this thread. It's also simple to wiggle the side stand switch and see if the engine stumbles. Put your bike on the center stand, put down the side stand, start; wiggle; observe. PUT THE SIDE STAND BACK UP before taking the bike off the center stand. Beverage break. Good job!

 
I checked the diag screen when I got home, no issues showing. I think i'm going to order a TBS, and put it on, in hopes of not having this issue again
That's expensive shotgun troubleshooting. If you can access the diag screen then you are 3/5 the way to testing the TPS (this is what you mean, right? ;) ).
TPS would be correct :poster_oops:

It is just a simple matter to twist the throttle and watch the screen, see post #3 in this thread. It's also simple to wiggle the side stand switch and see if the engine stumbles. Put your bike on the center stand, put down the side stand, start; wiggle; observe. PUT THE SIDE STAND BACK UP before taking the bike off the center stand. Beverage break. Good job!
Thanks Alan, gonna give it a try this eve, really have no idea what a TPS module costs, but I hafta assume it's cheaper to wiggle the side stand, and twist the go grip slowly!! :thumbsupsmileyanim:

 
OH SHUCKS!!!! [SIZE=18pt]Don't put down the side stand!!![/SIZE] We want to simulate the over road experience and ya can't do that with the side stand down.

On my part: DUH !?!?! What wuz I smokin'? Oh, wait, it was the fish for supper....

 
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I performed a Google search for FJR OEM TPS and of the 4k plus sites found, the one in Muskegon, Missouri at Babbitt's Sports Center had the best price for a Throttle Position Sensor of $105.19 and $7.16 for the two screws and $9.43 for UPS Ground (1 week to WA) I called today to order the part ASAP and found the cost was $139 and change. I told the parts man that was significantly more than their web order price. He said that was the idea, to get people to order parts on line. I did, it will be here the 9th.

 
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bikerschim,try checking with gary mccoy at university motors for that part he is usually cheaper then anyone else on yamahe parts.I think you can find his number in the vender section.

 
trimmantom,

What would we do without Google, did a search for "gary mccoy at university motors" and the correct link was on the first page. I have sent an email message to Gary - waiting for his reply.

:good: :whistle: :shades2: :smokin: :shades: :lazy: :coolsmiley: :beach: :bigglasses: :detective2: B)

 
Gary got it for me for $73.76 :yahoo: , $2.52 for the screws and about $8.00 for 3 day UPS. :clapping: He da man! :clapping: Ya do have to use the technique out lined by trimmantom (Thank you trimmantom) and the site at University Motors where you find Gary McCoy.

 
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I finally got to use my extended warranty for that issue. I had done all the trouble shooting and knew exactly what it was thanks to this board. If not for that they would still be trying to figure out what it was. The dealer was trying to tell me it was due to not having enough freeplay in the throttle. It was only happening when it was warm and they took it out for a 2 minute ride and nothing happened, so there must not have been anything else wrong even through I had told them it usually didn't show up for about 20 minutes or so. The I had to tell them how to access the diagnostic screen. Oh, well at least it finally got done and was completely covered under the warranty. It happened at about 60,000 miles on my bike.

Grady A. Dunham

 
Yup, this forum has save my bacon more than once! Follow up on the TPS for my FJR I got from Gary at University Motors. The removal/install is a snap - IF you have the correct tools. Prop up the fuel cell (gas tank) and on the right side you will find the pesky TPS. Unplug the lil' bugger and with a Torx Security (has a pit in the center of the tip to allow the tip to fully seat in the top of the screw) T-25 tip, unscrew the top screw. For the lower you will need a 1/4" Sears Ignition open-end wrench (comes in a set, a leftover from the days of points) to enable access to the T25 tip which you will just be able to get into the lower screw. Using the 1/4" Sears Ignition open-end wrench reach down to the Torx tip to loosen and remove the lower screw. Remove the defective TPS, install the new TPS, reinstall the screws, light finger tight, perform a TPS sensor diagnostic to set the correct position for the new TPS. Tighten one of the Torx screws, double check your TPS diagnostics, tighten the lower screw on the TPS, triple check the TPS diagnostic. Button down the fuel cell go for a nice smooth ride!

 
I had a TPS problem with my '03. It was hard to figure out what was wrong. the dealer you take the bike to can make all the difference. I caried mine to one dealer who sat on my bike for 2 or 3 days doing nothing because he was waiting on a call for the Yamaha techs. I quickly grabbed the bike from him before he could do any damage. I carried it to another dealer who quickly agreed I had a problem. They replaced the O2 sensor first, but that didn't cure the symptoms. The TPS was the culprit.

I had no recognizable symptoms at highway speeds, but tooling around city streets it would run really rough and often stall altogether if the revs got too low.

When you think you're bikes got problems, be persistent and keep plugging away until you get it fixed.

 
This is the same issue I explained in another thread in the forum, I have my bike in the shop today, having a new TPS sensor installed. Thanks to the Great troubleshooting notes here... Thanks all!!

will let you know how this fix resolves or does not resolve my problem with surging.

This is the same issue I explained in another thread in the forum, I have my bike in the shop today, having a new TPS sensor installed. Thanks to the Great troubleshooting notes here... Thanks all!!

will let you know how this fix resolves or does not resolve my problem with surging.

 
Where is Yamaha getting these TP sensors? From the parts rejected bin at the local car plant? I've never heard of any cars having problems with these sensors.

 
Where is Yamaha getting these TP sensors? From the parts rejected bin at the local car plant? I've never heard of any cars having problems with these sensors.
They do, and do often. Not necessarily the TPS, but various makes and models have their idiosyncrasies. And in cars, with automatics, and a much smaller power to weight ratio, problems aren't as obvious as they are in a lightweight, powerful machine. The TPS is the only mechanical device in the sensor array, and as such are subject to mechanical wear, and a resultant shorter lifespan than other components.

 
Where is Yamaha getting these TP sensors? From the parts rejected bin at the local car plant? I've never heard of any cars having problems with these sensors.
They do, and do often. Not necessarily the TPS, but various makes and models have their idiosyncrasies. And in cars, with automatics, and a much smaller power to weight ratio, problems aren't as obvious as they are in a lightweight, powerful machine. The TPS is the only mechanical device in the sensor array, and as such are subject to mechanical wear, and a resultant shorter lifespan than other components.
Installed a pc111usb today with the wally map. Runs like smoooooooth. ; Did a TBS also. Now the engine trouble light stays on all the time with a diag. code of 15 showing (TPI sensor.) This did not show up before the change to a pc111usb. Was wondering if the PC takes over the TPS position as on the computor it showed 0. Trying to diag it showed 101 on top and 0 on bottom of screen with no change at all with any throttle movement. Seems like the pc has taken over. It sure runs great except for the engine light being on. Help anyone?????

 
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