SacramentoMike
Not Safe For Work
It's hard to tell with that yellow background, but is that rider wearing a yellow helmet?
Guess I finally found a case where being short-assed and small is an advantage
How about flying economy class?
Throttle Rocker/Crampbuster Issue
- Thread starter SacramentoMike
- Start date
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It's hard to tell with that yellow background, but is that rider wearing a yellow helmet?
How about flying economy class?
Or when looking for an aftermarket windshield?
SnowAviation
Well-known member
Been using Throttle rockers and Cramp busters for a many many years, mostly on my 35hp KLR650 dual sport. use them on and off road and just about everthing everyone has said is right.
They can be dangerous until you learn to properly use them, you must be remain aware 100% of the time that it's attached.
When I first attached one to my FJR I found that a little tiny mistake can bring those 140 horses to life real quick. But I learned to use it safely and did so for a year or so, eventually I went for the even easier road and installed an Audiovox criuse control.
Any throttle assist will have risks on a high horsepower bike, just be careful and learn to properly use which ever tool you get.
They can be dangerous until you learn to properly use them, you must be remain aware 100% of the time that it's attached.
When I first attached one to my FJR I found that a little tiny mistake can bring those 140 horses to life real quick. But I learned to use it safely and did so for a year or so, eventually I went for the even easier road and installed an Audiovox criuse control.
Any throttle assist will have risks on a high horsepower bike, just be careful and learn to properly use which ever tool you get.
Auron
FJRForums' Red-headed stepchild
Could be made to look a lot nicer but you get the idea
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Not sure I get it. What does the added hinge accomplish?
I'm also a regular user of these oft dissed contrivances. As was said earlier, once you learn to adjusted it right, and become completely used to it always being there, it is no longer a danger of causing accidental acceleration.
I set mine on the extreme outside edge of the throttle side grip, so that just the heel of my hand contacts the flap. And most importantly, rotationally you want it set so that when the throttle is fully closed your wrist is straight, not arched. This does mean that your wrist will be dorsiflexed while riding down the road, but with minimal weight on your arms and only a light grip on the throttle being required, that is a comfortable position to maintain for long periods.
The one thing you most definitely do not want to do is to rotate the throttle rocker so your wrist is nearly straight while cruising. That would be dangerous because you wouldn't be able to close the throttle while gripping the bars in an emergency.
I'm also a regular user of these oft dissed contrivances. As was said earlier, once you learn to adjusted it right, and become completely used to it always being there, it is no longer a danger of causing accidental acceleration.
I set mine on the extreme outside edge of the throttle side grip, so that just the heel of my hand contacts the flap. And most importantly, rotationally you want it set so that when the throttle is fully closed your wrist is straight, not arched. This does mean that your wrist will be dorsiflexed while riding down the road, but with minimal weight on your arms and only a light grip on the throttle being required, that is a comfortable position to maintain for long periods.
The one thing you most definitely do not want to do is to rotate the throttle rocker so your wrist is nearly straight while cruising. That would be dangerous because you wouldn't be able to close the throttle while gripping the bars in an emergency.
El Toro Joe
FYYFF
Gotta agree with you Fred. I also use the TR, and have it mounted at the outer most edge of the grip. Sometimes I will remove it for spirited twisty rides, if I remember. I have become quite accustomed to it being there.
Falko
Well-known member
I run mine on a fairly low down angle. It only relieves maybe 50% of the effort, which is fine for me. I have tried running it higher to allow the weight of my hand do the work, but when off throttle it gets in the way. I try not to slab much at all, so rarely need it anyway.
Auron
FJRForums' Red-headed stepchild
The hinge allows you to make the rocker basically dissapear in town where it can be an annoyance. Get on the highway and flip the hinge over and your palm has something to rest on. Otherwise it would be too low to do anything.
If that works for you, that is great! I truly appreciate anyone willing to design and fabricate their own solution to a problem. :thumbsup:
As I said already, I'm able to adjust mine so that it is high enough to assist on the highway and is still not in the way at idle. Not sure what is different about mine.
As I said already, I'm able to adjust mine so that it is high enough to assist on the highway and is still not in the way at idle. Not sure what is different about mine.
Auron
FJRForums' Red-headed stepchild
Funny how I never had a problem on my Blackbird because it was lighter and had less wind resistence. When I got my FJR, I noticed I had to open the throttle about 20% more to maintain 80mph and decided to do that mod.
Do you have a different cam profile throttle tube on your bike? Or maybe the '09's already have one on there. That would alter the amount of grip twist for a given speed.
Auron
FJRForums' Red-headed stepchild
Just the G2, which if I could do again I wouldn't. Does the '09 even need one? All it seems to have done is create interference and I'm pretty sure mine started stuttering when I put it on,
That may be the big diff. A lower profile cam would mean you need to turn your wrist more to maintain a given speed.
But with the G2 throttle I think you can custom select a cam to fit onto the tube, right? So you could get a more "aggressive" profile cam that would result in fewer degrees of turn per mm of throttle cable pull and get back to stock or better.
You might want to check into that.
But with the G2 throttle I think you can custom select a cam to fit onto the tube, right? So you could get a more "aggressive" profile cam that would result in fewer degrees of turn per mm of throttle cable pull and get back to stock or better.
You might want to check into that.
Auron
FJRForums' Red-headed stepchild
Really? I didn't see how that's possible? There was only 1 place for the for the cables to grab on but I could be wrong
This is what I have, is it adjustable? Sure would make a lot of sense why I had so many problems after I put it on
This is what I have, is it adjustable? Sure would make a lot of sense why I had so many problems after I put it on
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Redfish Hunter
Gone Fishing
There is only one place to attach the cables, no they are not adjustable. What Fred is saying is that you can buy different cams from G2 to accomplish different ratios. By changing/replacing the cam on the throttle tube you can tailor the throttle response to suit your needs. You can go faster or slower than stock.
The G2 was an excellent fix for the '06 & '07 models because Yamaha used a different "lobed" throttle pulley at the throttle bodies. Many, but not all installed the G2 and a Power Commander on those two model years. I would not think the '09 model would need it. I have no idea how the throttle cam profile would cause your bike to stutter.
So, here's the way these work: The cables are fastened at the same (or similar) point which is relatively insignificant. But... the variable diameter of the cam area that resides underneath the throttle cables as you rotate the throttle tube will influence how much of the throttle cable gets pulled in per degree of tube rotation. This was the supposed problem with the early 2nd gen throttles causing herky-jerky throttle actuation; that the initial cam diameter was too large, thus making it too difficult to accurately apply smaller throttle openings.
As an illustration: We could reduce the throttle cam to the bare minimum diameter, i.e. just a hair bigger than the handlebars, and this would give the finest possible control over throttle actuation, But the result would be that the rider would have to turn the throttle tube too far to reach full throttle. The flip side would be an overly large throttle tube cam diameter, which would mean that a very small change in the grip position results in a huge change in the throttle plate angles. That would result in a 1/4 turn (or less) throttle, but one that is hard to regulate because every minor degree of grip twist results in so much change of the throttle plates angles.
Both the stock and G3 tubes have "cams" meaning that the diameter of the cable pull varies through the grip rotation. IN the initial pull areas it is of a smaller diameter in an attempt to make it easier to regulate, then the cam ramps up to a larger diameter so that the rider doesn't have to twist the grip too fat to get to max volume of the 1300cc monster.
It is a very tricky balancing act to get that cam profile just right. Curiously, it was just fine on all of the 1st gens, but the introduction of the AE in 2006 caused some changes that were not fully worked out by the engineers. Not that surprising really considering they were going into uncharted territories with the AE and its auto-clutch. Reports are that they got it figured out sometime between 2007 and 2008.
As an illustration: We could reduce the throttle cam to the bare minimum diameter, i.e. just a hair bigger than the handlebars, and this would give the finest possible control over throttle actuation, But the result would be that the rider would have to turn the throttle tube too far to reach full throttle. The flip side would be an overly large throttle tube cam diameter, which would mean that a very small change in the grip position results in a huge change in the throttle plate angles. That would result in a 1/4 turn (or less) throttle, but one that is hard to regulate because every minor degree of grip twist results in so much change of the throttle plates angles.
Both the stock and G3 tubes have "cams" meaning that the diameter of the cable pull varies through the grip rotation. IN the initial pull areas it is of a smaller diameter in an attempt to make it easier to regulate, then the cam ramps up to a larger diameter so that the rider doesn't have to twist the grip too fat to get to max volume of the 1300cc monster.
It is a very tricky balancing act to get that cam profile just right. Curiously, it was just fine on all of the 1st gens, but the introduction of the AE in 2006 caused some changes that were not fully worked out by the engineers. Not that surprising really considering they were going into uncharted territories with the AE and its auto-clutch. Reports are that they got it figured out sometime between 2007 and 2008.
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Patriot
Isabella is Lazarus
geez, small is better...I have a Kury throttle boss on THE FAR ENDS of both my grip puppies.
my hands can be on the inner 2/3 of the grips not even touching the throttle boss.
on the highway, I can move my hands an inch further out and rest the heel of my hand on it. It wraps around the grip with a rubber/elastic piece to hook on a tit of the big part.
works for me and the only grip wrist rest I'll recommend.
those large and extra large crampbusters scare me to just look at them
my hands can be on the inner 2/3 of the grips not even touching the throttle boss.
on the highway, I can move my hands an inch further out and rest the heel of my hand on it. It wraps around the grip with a rubber/elastic piece to hook on a tit of the big part.
works for me and the only grip wrist rest I'll recommend.
those large and extra large crampbusters scare me to just look at them
Auron
FJRForums' Red-headed stepchild
I can't say I'm very happy with what I'm currently using and I'd probably do something about it if changing the throttle tube wasn't such a gargantuian pain in the ass with factory heated grips. Is there a way I could somewhat reverse the effect the G2 has without actually taking it off?
So does that mean it was probably a coincidence that my AE's stuttering problem arose around the time I put the G2 on?
So does that mean it was probably a coincidence that my AE's stuttering problem arose around the time I put the G2 on?
Redfish Hunter
Gone Fishing
Let me answer your question with a question. Some of your other posts indicate some proficiency with tools and some experience wrenching on bikes. So...If the idle adjustment screw is at the throttle bodies and the G2 is at the handlebar, how can the G2 affect the fueling or idle speed to cause stuttering? I don't see any correlation there, however I am ready to learn.
I have to disagree with Fred W on this one. The pulley the cables actuate at the throttle bodies is different on the '06 and '07 models. It is an eccentric or egg shaped pulley resulting in a much faster more abrupt response to the twistgrip input. The G2 effectively countered that with a differently shaped cam on the twistgrip. After '07 Yamaha stopped putting that egg shaped pulley on the bottom and from '08 on the throttle response is much more linear and controlled.
Auron
FJRForums' Red-headed stepchild
I was just asking if there could be a correlations. I believe the auto-clutch engagement is directly related to throttle input and if the G2 alters the input, I was wondering if there could be a connection.
I'm not sure where I gave the impression I knew a lot about anything, I just like fixing problems. Beyond that I often do more harm than good.
I'm not sure where I gave the impression I knew a lot about anything, I just like fixing problems. Beyond that I often do more harm than good.
