'Tick' Anxiety

[Ignacio]

But how exactly does a Bass Bote Blue FJR owner know if theirs is an original "'05" or an "05.5"? After searching about, that tidbit seems to be rather elusive, and I can't see how to extract the manufacturing date from the VIN or anything else.

I see from my expired YES paperwork that the original warranty start date was 09/2004, suggesting mine is an uber '05. It is also a Model FJR13AT. Does anyone have a known '05.5? Is your Model FJR13AU?

You likely have a the 2005 and not 2005.5. Warranty in September 2004 is before 2005.5 were delivered starting in march 2005.

I captured this some information in the Compatibility Matrix including a T for 2005 and "U?" for 2005.5

 

[Fred W]

My Bass Boat Blue FJR has a big 8/04 on the VIN. I would presume that to be a manufacture date and would put it in the first batch. I still only have 12,600 on it since buying it in December with 6477 miles.

Where does one find the AT or AU designation?

Dam. I just went down and found that mine does say 07/04 right on the VIN sticker. Doh! :blink:

So when its the cut-in for 2005.5's? Those actually made in '05, I suspect?

The AT designation was on my YES paperwork. Not sure where else it is denoted.

 

[Fred W]

You likely have a the 2005 and not 2005.5. Warranty in September 2004 is before 2005.5 were delivered starting in march 2005.

I captured this some information in the Compatibility Matrix including a T for 2005 and "U?" for 2005.5

I'd assume that the manufacture date is a more accurate indicator than the delivery or warranty start dates.

And I was trying to get rid of the "?" in the "U?"

And furthermore, is there actually any difference or was it just a two year run of the same exact bike (Warchild's tick theory notwithstanding)?

 

[exskibum]

You likely have a the 2005 and not 2005.5. Warranty in September 2004 is before 2005.5 were delivered starting in march 2005.

I captured this some information in the Compatibility Matrix including a T for 2005 and "U?" for 2005.5

I'd assume that the manufacture date is a more accurate indicator than the delivery or warranty start dates.

And I was trying to get rid of the "?" in the "U?"

And furthermore, is there actually any difference or was it just a two year run of the same exact bike (Warchild's tick theory notwithstanding)?

FWIW:

My '05 is a forty-nine states model purchased in Nevada while I lived there in April 2005. The sticker on the steering head says that it was manufactured "1/05".

I cannot find anything on the bike that specifies whether it as an AT or AU (whether that's e.g., FJR1300AT or FJR13AT, etc.). I do find it on the dealership's Bill of Sale and on its Odometer Disclosure Statement (it showed 1 mile at time of sale). Those forms specify that its model designation is "FJR13AT".

Further FWIW: as noted in post 37, above, mine proved to be a ticker, and with a Jan. 2005 manufacture date, is it not a 2005.5?

 

[sredder]

I also thought I had a ticker. (05 A with 50K miles) I changed the CCT and it still ticked badly. I used 1/2 can of Seafoam this Spring to clean the injectors and within 200 miles, all the ticking was gone! I can only assume that some of the ticking was due to carbon build up on the exhaust valves. I have not had any further issues with ticking since running the Seafoam. Haulin Ashe reports that he decarbonizes with Seafoam prior to doing a valve check and has had very good luck with it.

Sredder

05 A

08 A

Lots of other toys

 

[FJRBluesman]

My old 2005 (now selling 2005) was manufactured in 04/05. The 2005 I just bought was manufactured in 03/05. :huh:

 

[ionbeam]

I cannot find anything on the bike that specifies whether it as an AT or AU (whether that's e.g., FJR1300AT or FJR13AT, etc.). I do find it on the dealership's Bill of Sale and on its Odometer Disclosure Statement (it showed 1 mile at time of sale). Those forms specify that its model designation is "FJR13AT"

This is the VIN of a salvage bike that I was looking at: JYARP07Y33A000146 The 10th digit 3 indicates it is an '03 model year. My VIN in part reads JYARP09E84AXXXXXX, the 10th digit 4 indicates my FJR is an '04.

FJR model numbers for 2004 were:

FJR1300S = 49 state non ABS

FJR1300SC = CA non ABS

FJR1300AS = 49 state ABS

FJR1300ASC = CA ABS

Model numbers for 2005 were:

FJR1300T = 49 state non ABS

FJR1300TC = CA non ABS

FJR1300AT = 49 state ABS

FJR1300ATC = CA ABS

The R - AA are model year codes that follow the basic model letters. The letter changes every year. The A is the standard 49 state model, C is a California smog canister machine, and the AE is the electronic clutch model. In 2006 ABS became standard and AE was the option so the model codes now include FJR13AEV and FJR13AEVC. The year code letters as follows:

2003 = R

2004 = S

2005 = T

2006 = V

2007 = W

2008 = X

2009 = Y

2010 = Z

2011 = AA

 

[FJRBluesman]

^^^ Per ionbeam, my bike is a 49 state'r, yet both bikes are in Cali. I believe the original owner of my first FeeJ bought it new, the second 2005 I'm the third owner. Hmmm. Per the VIN, they were built 241 bikes apart, in just around month.

 

[Big Shasta]

No matter if you pay for the other valve guides or they do, I would only keep the bike if they give you at least a 1 year warranty now that it's been torn into.

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

No matter if you pay for the other valve guides or they do, I would only keep the bike if they give you at least a 1 year warranty now that it's been torn into.

So..., in your view, putting in Yamaha's better parts (new-style guides & seals) can only make the bike's engine worse...?

Potentially, less reliable (or, having a shorter life)...?

...now that it's been torn into.

How does that compare to "disassemble, repair, and reassembly by a competent technician"...? :huh:

 

[Big Shasta]

No matter if you pay for the other valve guides or they do, I would only keep the bike if they give you at least a 1 year warranty now that it's been torn into.

So..., in your view, putting in Yamaha's better parts (new-style guides & seals) can only make the bike's engine worse...?

Potentially, less reliable (or, having a shorter life)...?

...now that it's been torn into.

How does that compare to "disassemble, repair, and reassembly by a competent technician"...? :huh:

A competent technician because you know he has a proven track record or because he told you he was? Unless I had a past relationship with said technician and knew he did excellent work, I wouldn't look at the engine the same now that it's been disassembled/repaired. I didn't sat "Run from it, it's been opened up" A competant technician would gladly stand behind his work with a warranty for a year because he's confident it's been done right. If he won't do that, leave the bike for someone else. I think that's reasonable.

 

[exskibum]

^^^ Per ionbeam, my bike is a 49 state'r, yet both bikes are in Cali. I believe the original owner of my first FeeJ bought it new, the second 2005 I'm the thrid owner. Hmmm. Per the VIN, they were built 241 bikes apart, in just around month.

I believe he has a typo there. He said:

Model numbers for 2005 were:
FJR1300T = 49 state non ABS

FJR1300TC = CA non ABS

FJR1300ATC = 49 state ABS

FJR1300ATC = CA ABS

The R - AA are model year codes that follow the basic model letters. The letter changes every year. The A is the standard 49 state model, C is a California smog canister machine, and . . .

2003 = R

2004 = S

2005 = T

2006 = V

2007 = W

2008 = X

2009 = Y

2010 = Z

2011 = AA

No quarrel with any of that except the bolded part, in which I believe he erroneously included an extraneous "C", and that it should have been:

FJR1300AT = 49 state ABS

Mine's an '05 49 states model ABS without the charcoal canister, and it's an AT. Curious that there is no "U" in the model year codes listed . . . just where a 2005.5 might have been.

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

...A competant technician would gladly stand behind his work with a warranty...

And, if the work proves to be sub-standard...? What good is a warranty?

You're not going to be satisfied with any repair, then -- are you?

Even if it's free... :huh:

 

[ionbeam]

...No quarrel with any of that except the bolded part, in which I believe he erroneously included an extraneous "C"...Curious that there is no "U" in the model year codes listed . . . just where a 2005.5 might have been.

No quarrel? Why that's - that's - that's very unForum like... Tnks, fixtered it. Damn insubordinate typing fingers.

There may be a U, Yamaha doesn't acknowledge it in most common documentation like parts lists, service manuals or owners manuals. Companies can do odd documentation things when they implement 100% backward compatible changes. Ok youse guys that claim a U model, show your work

 

[exskibum]

There may be a U, Yamaha doesn't acknowledge it in most common documentation like parts lists, service manuals or owners manuals. Companies can do odd documentation things when they implement 100% backward compatible changes. Ok youse guys that claim a U model, show your work

Yes, please -- I too would love to know where to find a U or T designation (esp. if on the bike somewhere), support for this U (or 2005.5) designation, and any certain (not speculative) differences between the 2005 and 2005.5 versions.

I recall the discussion long ago wishing/hoping/speculating that 2005.5 (late year, second wave) models may have had the newer, tick resistant exhaust valve guides that we know were standard in 2006. At the time, I was HOPING that mine was among them and immune to the tick. Whether mine was among the 2005.5 models is something I have never definitively known, despite its January '05 mfg. date. But alas, I DO know that my January '05 AT was not immune to the tick and that after its delousing at Roseville Yamaha in summer 2009 at ~29K miles, it now has the later tick resistant exhaust valve guides.

 

[Big Shasta]

...A competant technician would gladly stand behind his work with a warranty...

And, if the work proves to be sub-standard...? What good is a warranty?

You're not going to be satisfied with any repair, then -- are you?

Even if it's free... :huh:

By your thought process, we don't need factory warranties since the plant has very competent people putting these bikes together...What, you don't trust them?

I just don't get it. Why would some accountability toward the technician that just disassembled a very complex piece of machinery be a bad thing? Sounds like you're one of the "competent Technicians" that doesn't like someone holding you responsible for your work.

Here's how it would go. "Mr Service manager, the technician that repaired my bike last month accidentally put part A in backward or pinched gasket B and now it's leaking or all of the sudden a valve seal got a nick in it and I'm burning oil....I'd like it fixed since you stood behind your work with a warranty....Could you oversee the technician that does it to be sure there are no more problems....Thanks"

That sure is better than "oh ****, that gasket they just replaced is leaking I'm going to have to pay for it out of my own pocket."

Back in the day, you could walk back into the shop and say "Bob, the engine you opened up last month is now dripping oil"...and he would take care of it. These days, get it in writing....aka WARRANTY.

Stuff happens. It doesn't always mean it was incompetence by the technician...why are you so defensive about it? It's simple, if they won't stand behind their work for a year, walk away while you have the chance. If they truly are "Competent" AND nothing unforeseen happens, you won't need the warranty anyway. Any good shop will do that. There are plenty of bikes out there for sale.

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

...A competant technician would gladly stand behind his work with a warranty...

And, if the work proves to be sub-standard...? What good is a warranty?

You're not going to be satisfied with any repair, then -- are you?

Even if it's free... :huh:

By your thought process, we don't need factory warranties since the plant has very competent people putting these bikes together...What, you don't trust them?

Warranties are, usually, for faulty parts/components.

I just don't get it. Why would some accountability toward the technician that just disassembled a very complex piece of machinery be a bad thing?

Forced accountability...? :huh:

Sounds like you're one of the "competent Technicians" that doesn't like someone holding you responsible for your work.

I'm trying to not get personal... You...?

These days, get it in writing....aka WARRANTY.

Our increasingly litigious society...

Stuff happens. It doesn't always mean it was incompetence by the technician...why are you so defensive about it?

I'm trying to not get personal... You...?

(do you trust anyone...? )

It's simple, if they won't stand behind their work for a year, walk away while you have the chance. If they truly are "Competent" AND nothing unforeseen happens, you won't need the warranty anyway. Any good shop will do that. There are plenty of bikes out there for sale.

Unfortunately, that's a popular sentiment -- "If it's been worked-on, sell it..."

 

[Big Shasta]

charismaticmegafauna - Yes, I would force them to be accountable for the repair work. I don't see that as being unreasonable. If they balked at being held accountable, then I'd run from them as fast as I could.

Having a warranty would direct parties AWAY from litigation. It's an agreement up front as to who is responsible. What if he didn't have the 30 day warranty he currently is using? I guess the shop could wash their hands of it and say sure we'll fix it....for 1,000.00 (or whatever the cost is) Bet he's glad he has it.

I guess you got me....I don't make it a habit of trusting complete strangers with things that I pay thousands of dollars for.....if you do, good luck with that.

You continue to believe I have a "Sell it if it's been worked on" attitude. I never said run from it if they have to open it up.

I'll say it again, the bottom line is that any truly competent tech wouldn't mind standing behind his work for a year. I guess you've proven what category you would fall into....maybe a little unsure of your skills.

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

charismaticmegafauna - Yes, I would force them to be accountable... If they balked...then I'd run...

I don't make it a habit of trusting...

...if you do, good luck with that.

You continue to believe...

I'll say it again...you've proven what category you would fall into...

Really like to get personal..., huh...?

(I guess it's the refuge of those who are unable to enter into objective discussion...? :huh: )

 

[Big Shasta]

charismaticmegafauna - Yes, I would force them to be accountable... If they balked...then I'd run...

I don't make it a habit of trusting...

...if you do, good luck with that.

You continue to believe...

I'll say it again...you've proven what category you would fall into...

Really like to get personal..., huh...?

(I guess it's the refuge of those who are unable to enter into objective discussion...? :huh: )

I'm sorry, I missed where someone was trying to have an objective discussion with me.....all I've seen with you is baseless objection to my opinion (yes, my PERSONAL opinion...I never disputed thats what it is). I've presented the cons to not having a warranty....you have yet to present one Pro for not having it or one Con for having it. Since that seems to be your stand, you would need those for objective discussion. Or is "Trust" all you've got?