timk
timk
By chance were you using those high watt bulbs?
Toasted Headlight Socket
- Thread starter RossKean
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RossKean
Well-known member
No, just a standard store-brand (cheap) H4. Possible that it was a defective bulb that had some additional resistance (=heat) in the internal connections in the base that started things but more likely just a weak connection at the socket. Quite a few miles on the bike and I'm not shy about riding in the rain. Sometimes, **** happens!
Edit: Interesting note. After the use of dielectric grease on the headlight connectors was mentioned, I turned to the FSM to see what Yamaha had to say about it. The only mention of dielectric grease is for the battery terminals - nothing in the section on headlight replacement. Did an internet search on the subject and there are some contrary opinions but the majority seems to say to use it for headlight connectors. I never have used it on the connectors (just the rubber boot) but I have to wonder if it might have prevented the problem?
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TomInPA
Well-known member
Since dielectric grease is not a conductor, it cannot improve resistance through a connection. You use it to lubricate fittings and provide some water repellant properties. I doubt it would have changed a thing.
mcatrophy
Privileged to ride a 2018 FJR1300AS
Whatever grease you use is simply there to reduce corrosion.
All (relevant) connectors rely on a gas-tight interface between the contacts, achieved by spring pressure and a sliding connection that squeezed out any debris and pushes through minor oxidation/corrosion.
Water around the contact area will cause corrosion that will creep between the contacts until the resistance rises and thermal runaway ensues.
Whether the grease is "conductive" or "dielectric" is irrelevant. Searching for a figure for the electrical conductivity of so-called conductive grease mostly gives the result "excellent". The only specification I've found is from this document, which gives a figure of 30 ohm-centimetres. Compare that with copper, which has a conductivity of 1.7x10-6 ohm-centimetres, a factor of near enough 200000 times more conductive.
Use dielectric grease where leakage between contacts matters, use very high temperature grease (brake grease?) for headlamp contacts and the like.
All (relevant) connectors rely on a gas-tight interface between the contacts, achieved by spring pressure and a sliding connection that squeezed out any debris and pushes through minor oxidation/corrosion.
Water around the contact area will cause corrosion that will creep between the contacts until the resistance rises and thermal runaway ensues.
Whether the grease is "conductive" or "dielectric" is irrelevant. Searching for a figure for the electrical conductivity of so-called conductive grease mostly gives the result "excellent". The only specification I've found is from this document, which gives a figure of 30 ohm-centimetres. Compare that with copper, which has a conductivity of 1.7x10-6 ohm-centimetres, a factor of near enough 200000 times more conductive.
Use dielectric grease where leakage between contacts matters, use very high temperature grease (brake grease?) for headlamp contacts and the like.
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JamesK
Got to ride
+1, you can't go wrong with the Eastern Beaver H4 Headlight Relay Kit, and your headlights will be brighter than you've ever seen them, since the EB H4 kit uses heavier gauge wiring and sources the power to the headlights via a relay directly from the battery so all the losses through the crappy thin OEM wiring (even if it is technically rated to take the load) are eliminated. I have used this kit on a few bikes before and was very pleased with the difference in brightness/performance.
Easter Beaver H4 Dual Headlight Relay Kit
If you still decide to just go with a pair of new connectors Eastern Beaver also has high quality Mitsubishi Heavy Duty H4 Sockets and Plugs with a cover to help keep dirt and moisture out in the first place.
If you plan to stay with the cheap Chinese stuff, than maybe consider using ceramic connectors with leads, at least these won't melt as easily
Advantages of the eastern beaver dual headlight relay conversion are the bulbs will burn brighter (due to higher power delivery to the bulbs) and the headlight load will be removed from the (infamously melting) ignition switch.
A disadvantage is that the higher power delivery to the headlamps will cause them to burn out faster.
A disadvantage is that the higher power delivery to the headlamps will cause them to burn out faster.
RossKean
Well-known member
I might do the Eastern Beaver headlight relay - winter project. I am only getting a touch under 12V at the headlight socket and I thought it should be better. Brighter headlights would be nice (at the probable expense of reduced headlight life) but the main motivation is reduced load on the anemic OEM wiring harness. I had the S4 spider fix before I had any issues but had subsequent failures with another spider (S7?) and one other non-spider ground connection. Also, less power running through the ignition switch could only be a good thing. Thanks to Ken and James for the suggestion.
I think I would route the EB harness back to my Fuze block (un-switched) rather than to the battery. Hate having multiple wires hanging off the battery terminals. Probably have to splice in some extra wire in order to reach to under the seat.
I was looking for a higher quality socket but couldn't find one - lots available on-line but was not willing to wait a week or more to get it done.
I think I would route the EB harness back to my Fuze block (un-switched) rather than to the battery. Hate having multiple wires hanging off the battery terminals. Probably have to splice in some extra wire in order to reach to under the seat.
I was looking for a higher quality socket but couldn't find one - lots available on-line but was not willing to wait a week or more to get it done.
By running the power off the FuzeBlock you will be defeating the purpose of running the harness. You will not have full power delivered since there is voltage drop on the Fuzeblock distribution feeders proportional to the current in them, and you would have a very long wire run to the FuzeBlock and back.
Plus you may overtax your FuzeBlock depending on whatever else you have on there:
Plus you may overtax your FuzeBlock depending on whatever else you have on there:
I would make an exception for the headlights harness and have them connect directly to the battery terminals.
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RossKean
Well-known member
Fred, you are probably right on the FZ-1 although I find I get pretty much the same voltage there as I do directly to the battery terminals; at least in a relatively unloaded state. I have 10ga. wire from the battery to the FZ-1 and the internal paths are pretty robust and direct BUT... There is bound to be some (small) voltage drop and I would have to use two circuits (10A max, each). I am currently only using the block for my battery tender hookup, GPS and heated gear so I have lots of room in the 30A total but I want to add some aux. HID lights (should do LEDs but I bought the HID a few years ago and never got around to getting them installed).
RaYzerman19
Go Wings!
Check again that 10 ga. to the FZ1, as I recall from installing on a friend's bike, it will not accept 10 ga. It's likely 12 ga. or could be a 10 ga. with a couple of missing strands at the FZ1 end.......
TomInPA
Well-known member
This thread needs some controversy.
Get HID lights. They use just one plug to trigger the relay, only use 35 watts of power and are brighter and longer lasting.
Get HID lights. They use just one plug to trigger the relay, only use 35 watts of power and are brighter and longer lasting.
RossKean
Well-known member
RossKean
Well-known member
A few years ago, I seriously considered HID replacements for the headlamps but was never happy with any of the Hi-beam solutions. Not to say they didn't work but heard about too many issues with solenoid-operated shields.
I would forget the harness completely and go with LEDs if anyone comes up with a really good one. They have low current draw, low temperature and they are very long-lived (probably out-last the motorcycle). The best I have heard about are "almost as good" as halogens. Whiter and (arguably) brighter but beam pattern is not ideal. Most don't meet the mark when done as a side-by-side comparison with standard halogen bulbs. Also a little concerned about the cooling fans on most of these bulbs. I expect the LEDs will outlast the fans by a factor of five in the less-than-ideal environment of the nose of a motorcycle.
Seems to me that Twigg found some LEDs that made him happy and since he is a LD rider, I'm sure they get a lot of nighttime use. LEDs have come a LONG way in the past couple of years. Hopefully, someone will come up with something that works with reflector geometry designed for halogen incandescent bulbs. I may have to revisit some of the research I have done on them...
PJ4863
Well-known member
Like twigg, I did the led conversion to mine to lessen electrical draw on the whole system. The LEDS draw less... bit the beam isn't any better than the halogens. The up side, the LEDS are way more visible during the day.
It's possible that the bulb's three terminal lugs aren't as thick as those of the OE bulb.
The lugs of the OE Philips H4 bulb are 0.029 inches thick.
A thinner lug wouldn't be gripped as tightly by the wiring socket. A looser connection equates to more ohms and more heat.
Approximately 5 amps flow through each headlight bulb. That's comparable to the amperage of the fuel pump motor.
Keep the bike moving so cooling air is flowing across the headlight fixture keeping its temperature down.
The lugs of the OE Philips H4 bulb are 0.029 inches thick.
A thinner lug wouldn't be gripped as tightly by the wiring socket. A looser connection equates to more ohms and more heat.
Approximately 5 amps flow through each headlight bulb. That's comparable to the amperage of the fuel pump motor.
Keep the bike moving so cooling air is flowing across the headlight fixture keeping its temperature down.
TomInPA
Well-known member
The best H4 HID lights do not have Hi/Lo capability. They are fixed and therefore no solenoid or weird connectors. I use HID, with Clearwater Krista LED which go to full power when the highbeam is used whether the lights have a solenoid or not. Great low beam performance with clean cutoff, and the auxiliary lights do the high beam duty better than any headlight.
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