MCRIDER007
Well-known member
I wasn't asking how to measure the sag, I was asking how you adjusted/changed the sag....I'm assuming you are referring to the sag at the rear end.
Last edited by a moderator:
Too much forward lean
- Thread starter 67DLA
- Start date
Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
A41Billy
Well-known member
I guess I should have taken a picture of it while I was doing it, but I'll try to explain it without the helpful photo. I did the measuring and marking as instructed from all the tutorials. It is advised to use a helper to hold the bike and perhaps even a second helper to read the tape measure. I didn't have any helpers so I made due. So after the measuring while on the center stand I created a benchmark on the side of the bike with a marker on some blue painters tape.I took a piece of wood moulding, similar to a yard stick and set it on the top of the nut on the rear wheel on the left side (kickstand side). While it was setting on the nut I clearly marked the stick with a black marker to match the bench mark . Then I put about 3" worth of tic marks on the stick below the black mark. Then I used some blue tape to hold the stick to the final drive hub as the stick set on top of same the nut from where I measured. The stick was taller than the seat and it rested against the very front of the handlebars that are beside the seat. The stick wouldn't stand up by itself and I couldn't tape I to the seat because the bike had to move freely along side of it, so I took my daughters jump road and looped it around the stick and then hung both ends of the rope on the opposite side of the seat. This kept the stick upright and tight to the bike, but allowed the bike to move up and down beside the stick. I then set up a mirror (the bigger the better) beside the bike to look at the stick as I would balance on the bike. Once on the bike I took it off the center stand and bounced it a bit to let it settle in and then took a look at the stick via the mirror. I got off and marked the stick where I thought I read it, and then got on the bike again. I wanted to make sure that I was reading correctly. I did this a few time to be as accurate as I could. According to my first dimensions and markings, my bike had no SAG at all. I then started to turn the nut on the shock to adjust the SAG. Every time I would get back on, I would bounce the bike a bit for it to settle in, and then balance it just barely touching one tip toe and checked the marks on the stick in the via mirror. I took about 10 times off and on the bike, but it only took about 15 minutes to do. I will have to admit that this is not an approved Yamaha method, but way better than just flat out guessing or doing nothing at all. I guess it wouldn't take much to recreate the process and photo it but I am not sure how to load pictures onto this forum. Watch the other videos on the web to learn better about the marking and measuring, but you can use the tape, mirror and rope to be your helpers. Good luck.
MCRIDER007
Well-known member
It sounds like the "nut on the shock" you are referring to is the rebound damping adjustment wheel. Increasing or decreasing rebound damping is going to change how fast the spring returns to its original position after it is compressed but is not going to change the sag.
Last edited by a moderator:
A41Billy
Well-known member
Then there must be something wrong with my shock. When on the center stand and then sitting on the ground the bike barely moved off the same dimension. Adjusting the hard/soft lever didn't do anything. The only time any change to the dimension happened is when I adjusted the lower nut. Not being the motorcycle genius I'd like to be as compared to you guys this was all I could do. By definition of the word "sag", it did change though. I obviously need to find out what's up with my shock then.
HotRodZilla
GOD BLESS AMERICA
Man...Suspension stuff is mostly magic...To me anyway, but one or two of every three here thinks he is a suspension engineer while fully 2/3 of those have no idea what they're talking about...So remember the advice you get here is worth what you paid for it.
Last edited by a moderator:
MCRIDER007
Well-known member
Don't get discouraged but do find someone to help you measure sag. The most important sag number is the one with the rider's full weight and you cannot do that by yourself.
In regards to the soft/hard adjustment, its probably doing a lot more than you think although it might not be apparent when the bike is sitting in the garage. The OEM shock is rather unique in that it has 2 separate springs and gives 2 much different spring rates......but does not have a preload adjustment for either spring rate, therefore the sag cannot be adjusted for either spring rate. If you have been riding on the hard setting, try the soft setting for riding solo with the damping adjustment in the middle, and then switch to the hard setting. There should be a very noticeable difference. If not, then I would certainly be concerned about the shock.
Last edited by a moderator:
blrfjr
Well-known member
You should see a NOTICABLE difference when switching from HARD TO SOFT especially when two up. The soft setting is way to soft when two up.
A41Billy
Well-known member
An aftermarket adjustable shock will have preload settings that will allow proper sag and give a much better ride. Depending on how many miles your stock shock has, it may be time for a new one anyway. I rode with my stocker on the hard setting always and it still wasn't even close. It was tired at 30k miles.
bgross
Recusant Infidel
The good thing about the price of advice on suspensions (or on anything else) is that it gets added to the cost basis of your bike for tax purposes. This will reduce your capital gains obligation when you sell your bike.
Naturally, capital gains only applies if you sell your bike for more than you paid for it. Last time I checked, that's not likely to happen.
If only there was a capital loss tax credit for our bikes....
To keep this on topic (and not about the monetary value of Internet advice), you might look into a two-step approach:
1) apply drawer liner to reduce the sliding.
2) wear a small rucksack when riding with your S.O. This will reduce HER lean angle, resulting in less pressure on you.
3) estimate the $$$ saved by not buying a) suspension upgrades, B) custom saddles, c) back rests , etc. and deposit this $$$ into a savings account.
4) use the savings account to purchase a previously-owned Wingabago.
Please feel free to use Paypal to compensate my for the sagacious advice, at the prevailing rates.
Yikes! Either you are posting from an iPad or you do not like formatting your responses with paragraphs. Giving you the benefit of the doubt and assuming you're an iPad user, I find that when you first submit a post to this forum it strips out any paragraph formatting when using an iPad. But if you click on "edit" and then immediately click on "Save Changes" (even though you haven't made any) it restores the formatting.
As for the rear sag, the rear wheel travel on an FJR is ~125mm (just shy of 5 inches). Ideally you would want the loaded sag to be roughly 1/3rd of that total travel, or ~42mm (~ 1 5/8"). That sag is not very adjustable on a stock shock. Just pick hard or soft and go with whichever comes closest to 42 mm.
Last edited by a moderator:
timsfjr
Member
How time changes things. I remember riding an old 750 Honda in high school circa 80's. Wanting my female passenger who was well endowed btw to slide into me at stops. Sometimes the rear seat would get some armor all on it by accident before our rides. Lol. That's all I got to say about that. To each their own.
Redfish Hunter
Gone Fishing
I can relate to this ^^^
In the '80s I would ride Dad's GoldWing to school any time I could steal it from him. I was so ignorant in those days that other than helmets, gloves, and boots, riding gear was not thought of much. I loved it when my after school passengers would slide forward against me... In my youthful stupidity I imagined they were impressed with the way my triceps muscles would bulge with power while supporting us against the bars... I was skinny as a rail by the way.
FWIW, I only put ArmorAll on the seat one time. I had washed, waxed, polished chrome, armoralled everything, and Dad was working nights. He rode his shiny GoldWing to work that night with a big smile. He called from the plant that night, which was very unusual. "Did you put Armor All on the seat? You did? Uh son, you know I appreciate you but please don't ever do that again."
Now you guys know the difference between riding with your new high school girl friend and your wife. 
Last edited by a moderator:
HotRodZilla
GOD BLESS AMERICA
Unless your new girlfriend doesn't want to ride with you either!!
bernie1
Member
I think you are working on the wrong end of the bike. The front sag is completely adjustable. You still need a loaded and unloaded measurement and if it is off specs. then just crank the springs. Also I like the fork tubes to be flush with the top of the triple clamp. I am not afraid to go 1/4 inch below flush in extreme cases but no more than that!
Can not remember the exact sag specs but it is around 1 1/4 inches, does anyone else remember? Bernie
Can not remember the exact sag specs but it is around 1 1/4 inches, does anyone else remember? Bernie
