Tools for TBSync

[Rickster]

See post #10

 

[FlyingLow]

That is pretty slick looking.

So what's yer day job? Design any new rockets lately?

 

[jestal]

What does the plumbing at the bottom look like? From the picture it looks like 1 connects to 3 and 2 connects to 4....?

That would let you balance 1 to 3 and 2 to 4 but how would you know that 1/3 are sync'ed to 2/4?...unless I misunderstand the plumbing.

Neat idea and nice job. The larger PVC at the top will also act as an accumulator to smooth out the vacuum signals.

 

[Rickster]

That is pretty slick looking.So what's yer day job? Design any new rockets lately?

Day job? actually i am a rocket scientist!

What does the plumbing at the bottom look like? From the picture it looks like 1 connects to 3 and 2 connects to 4....?
That would let you balance 1 to 3 and 2 to 4 but how would you know that 1/3 are sync'ed to 2/4?...unless I misunderstand the plumbing.

Neat idea and nice job. The larger PVC at the top will also act as an accumulator to smooth out the vacuum signals.

Looking Left to RIght I'll call it 1,2,3,4 like you did.

All 4 tubes are tied together at the bottom. I made a circle with tubing and the straight part of the 4 T's, and connected the vertical tubes to the top nipple. (id est from the front you see 1 tied to 3, 2 tied to 4, from the back you'd see 1 tied to 4 and 2 tied to 3)

 

[Scab]

Has anyone notified the FBI? Kaczynski is the wrong man!

Slick piece of engineering.

 

[nusman68]

-Okay, where'd you get all that Mercurachrome left over from the '60s?

Nice job!

 

[Fred H.]

Let us know how this works out.

 

[jestal]

Clever way to tie them all together. Makes sense with the larger picture. I though the bottom fittings were L's and didn't see the tees.

 

[Powerman]

I've been using my homemade unit for 20 yrs. Took a piece of PVC pipe and cut a notch in it, put a hot wheel track down the middle. Put a shampoo bottle in the bottom for the common mercury reservoir. Four glass tubes with long plastic hoses. The hoses I hang over head to keep the mercury out of the motor. Works sweet.

 

[Rickster]

Rick's Homemade Differential Manometer (Complete) No more need to e-mail me for the large document...

About $40.00 (all parts from Lowe's priced May, 2006)

CSValues:

Ref:, Lowes Price, Description, Used for:

1, $6.80, Qty 2, ($3.40 per 20' roll), rolls of 3/8" (1/4" ID) Vinyl tubing, Tubes, and to connect to TB or Carbs

2, $3.57, 1'X4' Shelving Board, Backboard

3, $1.60, Shelving brackets (0.85 each), Stand the backboard up, used as feet.

4, $1.18, 1" Pipe Straps (4 Pk), Screws the PVC 'Traps' to the backboard

X, $.99, Bag-O-Screws , Screwing the pipe straps to the shelving board (holding the PVC 'Traps' to the board). Screwing the shelving brackets to the shelving board as feet (one on the front, one on the back)

5, $20.80, 'Traps', Collect fluid in the event a tube becomes disconnected

6, $4.64, Qty 4 (1.16 each) 1/4 X 1/4 X 1/4 T with barbs , Connecting the bottom of the vinyl tubes together

TOTAL, 40.57, Includes glue, screws, etc.,

Instructions:

First, make the traps.

Traps Parts:

CSValues:

Cost, Description, More:

$3.24, 1" X 5' Sch 40 PVC, Cut (4) 10" Sections

$2.12, 1" Elbows 5Pk for $2.12, Cement to one end of the 10" PVC pipe

$1.44, (Qty 4, 0.36 each) 1" Sch 40 couplers, Glue to the bottom of the PVC pipe, Glue threaded bushing, and screw in barb with joint compound

$5.84, (Qty 8, 0.73 each) 1 X 1/2" 1/2" Threaded bushing Sched 40 , 4 glue into the elbows (top) 4 glue into the couplers(bottom)

$4.80, (Qty 8, 0.60 each) 1/4" barb with 1/2 threaded end, Screw into the threaded bushings above (4 into the elbows, 4 into the couplers at the bottom

$1.42, 1 oz tube of joint compound ok for PVC, Screw in threaded barbs

$1.94, PVC Cement (Clear), Glue Elbows, Couplers

TOTAL, 20.80, MAKES 4 'TRAPS',

Cut the PVC into 4 sections 10" in length

Clean out the inside of the sections

Glue an Elbow on one end, and a coupler on the other end of EACH section of PVC

Put joint compound (make sure that it's labeled as OK for PVC pipe) on the 1/4" barb with 1/2" threaded end. Screw one into EACH of the threaded bushings (these should be the type that are smooth on the OUTSIDE to be glued into the PVC)

Glue one of the threaded bushings with the barb fittings intoEACH Elbow, and the bottom of EACH coupler.

** YOU NOW HAVE the 4 TRAPS, ready for final assembly. **

Top of Traps:

Bottom of Traps:

Completed Fluid Traps:

Take a pipe clamp, and screw/fasten all 4 'Traps to the top of the shelving board.

A1) Cut 4 lengths of the 3/8" OD (1/4" Inside Diameter) tubing and place on the bottom barbs of ONLY 3 of the traps (let them dangle, should not touch the floor, if so, cut them a bit shorter). The 4th tube will be connected to the trap AFTER filling the manometer.

A2) Push a 'T' into the bottom of each of the dangling tubes

A3) Cut 4 pieces of tubing about 6" and connect:

FRONT of tube 1 to 3

FRONT of tube 2 to 4

BACK of tube 1 to 4

BACK of tube 2 to 3

(makes ALL 4 tubes connected to each other at the bottom) See picture:

A4) Screw on the shelving brackets as 'feet' (see picture)

A5) Either drill holes and use string, or zip ties (I used both) to affix the tubes so that they are straight. (see above picture for example of both zip ties – used to affix the 'T's to the shelving board, and also just above that, some string used to hold the 4 tubes together and straight.

A6) FILLING: Since one of the top tubes that connect to the traps was not connected, Slowly and carefully start adding some fluid (less than an ounce at a time). Let it settle, and carefully add more until the tubes are approximately 1/3 filled. I used Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF fluid (cause I had some), could also use 2-Stroke Oil, colored Water with a little bleach to keep any 'green' out of it) I prefer the ATF fluid. After filled (see photo below), verify no air bubbles are in the bottom tubes – if so, bend them down a little and let the air bubbles escape)

A7) Test it. Slowly and lightly blow into the unconnected tube, make sure that tube drops level, and the other three rise.

A8) Connect the tube to the last barb. YOUR DONE with assembly. (Total time should be less than an hour J )

How to use it:

Just like any other carb sync tool.

Some Notes: This manometer is DIFFERENTIAL – that is, it only shows difference in vacuum, not absolute inches of Hg. For syncing carbs/throttle bodies – balance is what is wanted, so this works fine. As far as resolution – much finer than a mercury based or 'Carb-Tune' type, you will see greater differences in the fluid level on this manometer.

ALL TUBES MUST BE CONNECTED TO THE SYNC PORT FOR THIS TO WORK.

The 'Traps' do 2 things: 1) They provide a place to hold 100% of the fluid in the event that one of the tubes comes off of the carb/throttle body, other simpler designs would allow the fluid to enter the intake – and that's bad. 2) They make a vacuum accumulator and smooth out the rate of change in the fluid.

• LEGAL DISCLAIMER: The information presented here is for reference or entertainment purposes only. No claims are made regarding the accuracy or reliability of the information.
• Ideas and projects are intended for technically trained individuals who are capable of evaluating their appropriateness and safety.
• Home-made devices are not reliable and unforeseen consequences may result from their use.
• Check all local, state, and federal laws regarding the use of home-made devices.
• Many of the materials used to assemble homemade devices could contain dangerous chemicals such as lead, check applicable Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) for all chemicals for use, storage, and emergency procedures.
• Although the information provided is believed to be original or in the public domain, the devices and suggested uses may violate existing patents.

 

[Constant Mesh]

One might redesign the trap configuration a bit. Once the oil covers the lower opening of a trap the eventual air flow up through the oil will result in oily foam and bubbles which may tend to follow the air flow out of the top of the trap and into the engine. Mixing air into oil makes a mess and some of this mess will likely reach the engine.

No air should be introduced into the trap until the column open to the ambient air is emptied of oil. Then the remaining vacuum columns will begin to empty their oil into their traps. But air will likely enter the traps before all the oil is evacuated from the columns.

An alternative trap design would be one where the air entering the trap doesn't have to percolate up through the entrapped oil forming foam and bubbles. Such a design might look like a T rotated to the right 90 degrees. The U-tube connection would be at the bottom of the T (left side). The lower right part of the T would be capped off. This portion of the T would have a volume greater than the total oil volume in the system. The upper right portion of the T would be the exit point for the air flow to the engine. When the oil enters the T from the left side it would drop down into the lower right portion of the T and be shunted away from the air flow to the engine.

 

[Roy Epperson]

Rick,

I just got an FJR and my wife got a new VStar 1300 which needs to sync'd too. If I put a "tee" in line-in with the lines coming off the VStar and then connect the other 2 ends of the "tee" to the trap inputs, would this work?

TI

 

[Wicked Webby]

Hey all,

I know some have done it here too, but I will add some input.

I made one, like a lot here have, by taking a piece of say 20 ft (you can go as long as you want)of that clear 1/4 inch plastic tubing. Found the exact center of this tubing.. marked it with a marker. Taped this tubing to the outside edges of a yard stick..The ends of the tubes facing up. The marked center of the tubing at the bottom edge of the yard stick. Thus, making the tubing "U" shaped around the yard stick. Mounted this to my garage wall (plum and level). Filled the tube up half way (up the yard stick equally on both sides) with some red transmision fluid. Took about a day for all the air bubbles to go away inside the tubing. There you have it.. A super, super accurate sync. No need for four tubes either. I just place one end of the tube on the base #3 cylinder and take turns tuning the other 3 cylinders in to the #3. I just shut the bike off before removing the tube to go to the next cylinder. By the way... If you mess up and accidently remove one of the tubes before shutting off the bike... The transmission fluid will not hurt anything if it gets sucked in.. AND... You won't have to have the HAZMAT team out for clean up if your using a mercury stick.

We tested this homemade sync next to a buddy of mines mercury sync and the mercury sync is not nearly as accurate or sensitive to the vacuum pressure.

This whole setup ran me about $7. I used clear packaging tape so I could see the various levels of the fluid on each side while tuning. I used a yard stick that had equal markings on both edges for a very accurate tune!

WW

 

[Constant Mesh]

Has this 4-port syncing system worked well for those who've built it? I have a 2-port system (U-tube manometer) I built and it works well. But a 4-port would be better since you wouldn't need to stop the engine when connecting to other TB's.

My only concern would be when you first start the engine before you have an opportunity to make adjustments. If a TB has a large vacuum error the liquid column might rise too far, too rapidly and enter the trap before you could turn the air screw.

 

[Mike101]

Just purchased the Morgan Carbtune and tool pouch shipped from UK under 100. Since the Pound is lower against the USD. Probably saved about $50 from what it was just about 2 Months ago.

Morgan Carbtune

Mike

 

[SPORT]

Hey all,
I know some have done it here too, but I will add some input.

I made one, like a lot here have, by taking a piece of say 20 ft (you can go as long as you want)of that clear 1/4 inch plastic tubing. Found the exact center of this tubing.. marked it with a marker. Taped this tubing to the outside edges of a yard stick..The ends of the tubes facing up. The marked center of the tubing at the bottom edge of the yard stick. Thus, making the tubing "U" shaped around the yard stick. Mounted this to my garage wall (plum and level). Filled the tube up half way (up the yard stick equally on both sides) with some red transmision fluid. Took about a day for all the air bubbles to go away inside the tubing. There you have it.. A super, super accurate sync. No need for four tubes either. I just place one end of the tube on the base #3 cylinder and take turns tuning the other 3 cylinders in to the #3. I just shut the bike off before removing the tube to go to the next cylinder. By the way... If you mess up and accidently remove one of the tubes before shutting off the bike... The transmission fluid will not hurt anything if it gets sucked in.. AND... You won't have to have the HAZMAT team out for clean up if your using a mercury stick.

We tested this homemade sync next to a buddy of mines mercury sync and the mercury sync is not nearly as accurate or sensitive to the vacuum pressure.

This whole setup ran me about $7. I used clear packaging tape so I could see the various levels of the fluid on each side while tuning. I used a yard stick that had equal markings on both edges for a very accurate tune!

WW

WW; PM sent.

Now this seems like the tool I'm looking for. WW; do you have pics? Are you willing to provide a parts list?

Thanks in advance.

Sport

 

[RadioHowie]

Just a quick couple of questions....

Assuming we'd call the side of the shelf board where the traps are mounted as the "front", where the tubes terminate in the bottom of the traps, where do the tubes on the "back" of the board terminate? That would be the 4 tubes going up from the connection tees at the bottom of the last picture in #10.

And the tubes that attach to the vacuum ports on the engine during the TBS...are they attached to the barbs on your traps and just not shown in the pics?

Basically what I need to grasp the entire concept is to see a couple of pics of the completed unit, front and back, including the tubes attached that run to the vacuum ports on the bike.

Or hooked up TO the bike, as during an actual TBS, would be fantastic!

Gee, I'm not asking for much, am I?

This would come in REAL handy for both my Feej and my Rex...they're BOTH due for a TBS.

 

[dsmack]

Radio ~ Not my thread, but because I'm up late tonight, thought I'd give it a shot anyway...

There are NO tubes which run up the "back of the board". The cutout at the bottom of the board where the "T"s are is to give clearance for short pieces of tube which connect two of the tubes to each other on the back side. On the front side, tube #1 connects to tube #3, and tube #2 connects to tube #4. On the back side, tube #1 connects to tube #4, while tube #2 connects to tube #3. Hence, all tubes end up being interconnected so you can compare all four flows at once without having to shut off the engine to change connections.

Nothing runs up the back of the board. The interconnection of the two tubes in pairs allows the two to interact in relation to the vacuum applied to the column of fluid contained in the upright front tubes. When the two columns of fluid are equal, the vacuum is equal, and the two cylinders are said to be "Balanced".

The barb fittings at the top of the "Collectors" is where the flex tubing attaches the columns of fluid to the synchronizer ports on your throttle bodies or carburetors. The vacuum being drawn from the synch ports is what causes the fluid to rise in the individual tubes, and your ultimate quest is to get the flow of vacuum (and the resultant columns of fluid) as nearly the same as possible.

If you've never used a tool like this before, I can see where it (and the concept) might be confusing ~

Hope this helped clarify things a bit.

Don

 

[zzzzip]

Here is a link somebody might find interesting: www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp

2 tube yardstick thingy.

B)