Top box induced handlebar wobble

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The first torque setting is 37 ft-lbs, then fully loosen the nut, then the second torque setting is 13 ft-lbs.

The torque arm of the torque wrench itself is 17". The torque arm of the torque wrench with a spanner at 90 degrees with 3" arm is 17.25". This is within 1.5% which is better than the accuracy of the torque wrench.
TYVM for your help! I've always wanted to torque it directly instead of using this stupid tool worthless-steering-head-tool.jpgThis is the second one I've bought because of the whole self destructing thing. Could anyone tell me if this one is any better?maybe-better-steering-head-nut-tool.jpg
Thanks for any guidance in this matter.

Links:
1st tool:
https://smile.amazon.com/TR-DIESEL-...jr1300+steering+stem+nut+tool,aps,122&sr=8-16
2nd tool:
https://smile.amazon.com/Yamaha-130...fjr1300+steering+stem+nut+tool,aps,122&sr=8-1
 
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TYVM for your help! I've always wanted to torque it directly instead of using this stupid tool View attachment 2912This is the second one I've bought because of the whole self destructing thing. Could anyone tell me if this one is any better?View attachment 2913
Thanks for any guidance in this matter.

Links:
1st tool:
https://smile.amazon.com/TR-DIESEL-...jr1300+steering+stem+nut+tool,aps,122&sr=8-16
2nd tool:
https://smile.amazon.com/Yamaha-130...fjr1300+steering+stem+nut+tool,aps,122&sr=8-1
Either should work OK. (Just remember to put the torque wrench at 90° to the spanner arm...
If you managed to destroy one of the spanner types, it must have been made out of butter - torque isn't that high!

You can always make one from an appropriate deep socket and a grinder...
https://www.fjrforum.com/threads/homemade-steering-bearing-socket.139053/
 
The first torque setting is 37 ft-lbs, then fully loosen the nut, then the second torque setting is 13 ft-lbs.

The torque arm of the torque wrench itself is 17". The torque arm of the torque wrench with a spanner at 90 degrees with 3" arm is 17.25". This is within 1.5% which is better than the accuracy of the torque wrench.
Says the guy that can shoot a satellite into space and hit an asteroid going 14,000 mph.
 
The torque arm of the torque wrench itself is 17". The torque arm of the torque wrench with a spanner at 90 degrees with 3" arm is 17.25". This is within 1.5% which is better than the accuracy of the torque wrench.

I apologize. The above statement is both sloppy and meaningless. I blame it on the product of rushing off a post late at night without carefully thinking about it.

It makes no difference what the length of the spanner is. If the axis of the spanner is perpendicular to the torque wrench at the moment the torque setting is reached, the torque at the center of the spanner opening (the center of the castle nut) will be the same as the torque wrench setting. That is, using a spanner perpendicular to a torque wrench applies the same torque to the castle nut as a socket directly above it.
 
I apologize. The above statement is both sloppy and meaningless. I blame it on the product of rushing off a post late at night without carefully thinking about it.

It makes no difference what the length of the spanner is. If the axis of the spanner is perpendicular to the torque wrench at the moment the torque setting is reached, the torque at the center of the spanner opening (the center of the castle nut) will be the same as the torque wrench setting. That is, using a spanner perpendicular to a torque wrench applies the same torque to the castle nut as a socket directly above it.
Absolutely! Although in all fairness, you will always be dead on for the socket but may not be perfectly perpendicular to the spanner.
 
A typically unhelpful mcatrophy comment.

I have an OEM 50 litre topbox on my 2018, it was on my 2014. It stays there all the time, usually empty. Never had a passenger or rear seat luggage to break the airflow. I've never noticed any of the wobble issues several others have talked of, but I think the bike’s more sensitive to blustery winds with it on.

Parameters that might be relevant:
Suspension is the OEM electrically adjustable (AE in the USA; ES, and on the AS in the UK), almost invariably set for rider only, no luggage, standard damping;
Windscreen: Yamaha touring (no issues at any height setting, though never set high enough that I can't see over it);
Rider weight: 140 pounds (that's in my birthday suit, though I usually ride in a full motorcycling suit);
Rider height: 5'7" when last measured (was 5'8.5" for most of my life);
Tyres: BT023 or T32, pressures 39-40/42-43, though a few psi under doesn't cause wobble, just affects handling);
Speeds: often in the 80s (must be on private roads), occasionally a few minutes at nearer jail speeds, though in that case I usually have maybe 20 pounds in the topbox.
Head bearings: I’ve never checked them, they are as they came from the factory, the bike is serviced at my dealer, I don't know if he has ever adjusted them. With the front wheel off the ground, the bars flop side-to-side with no friction other than cables. Since I get no symptoms of head bearing issues (I don't consider handlebar wobble when decelerating through the 40mph area an issue) I leave them alone.

I do understand how the topbox might add eddies from round the rider (you've only got to look at a flag fluttering in a steady wind to visualise that possibility), just never experienced it.

I am thinking rider bulk in particular might be something to do with it, I am smaller than most riders.

As I say, probably of no help at all, maybe just some sort of data point.

I also have an '18 with similar setup, and I agree on a similar experience. I'm 5’10“ and usually around 180#. The issue is there, and as I said earlier in the thread, I've experienced this in a number of bikes.
On this FJR I've had Dunlop OEM, 1 set of Avon, and finally settled on Pirelli Angel GT II (A) spec., now on a second set.
The issue has been the same across all brands.
What I have not done yet is the split weights. This makes sense to me and I will do that on my front next tire to test it.
 
The first torque setting is 37 ft-lbs, then fully loosen the nut, then the second torque setting is 13 ft-lbs.

The torque arm of the torque wrench itself is 17". The torque arm of the torque wrench with a spanner at 90 degrees with 3" arm is 17.25". This is within 1.5% which is better than the accuracy of the torque wrench.
If you arrange the spanner at a 90 degree angle to the torque wrench there is no torque amplification and you can read the wrench directly.
 
TYVM for your help! I've always wanted to torque it directly instead of using this stupid tool View attachment 2912This is the second one I've bought because of the whole self destructing thing. Could anyone tell me if this one is any better?View attachment 2913
Thanks for any guidance in this matter.

Links:
1st tool:
https://smile.amazon.com/TR-DIESEL-...jr1300+steering+stem+nut+tool,aps,122&sr=8-16
2nd tool:
https://smile.amazon.com/Yamaha-130...fjr1300+steering+stem+nut+tool,aps,122&sr=8-1
I just went to Amazon they are out of the socket style steering head nut tool and not sure if they will receive any more. sigh I guess I will have to make one unless someone has one for sale. Good luck with that hard to find.
 
I just went to Amazon they are out of the socket style steering head nut tool and not sure if they will receive any more. sigh I guess I will have to make one unless someone has one for sale. Good luck with that hard to find.
Search steering stem socket on ebay...
 
Ignacio is right. I have to very heavy bar ends (perhaps a bit too big), and I ride with a Givi 52L Monokey top case. Since I had the bike ('06, only 7K miles when I got it), I replaced the tires, and torqued the steering head to spec, using the two-step process. The slight wobble is there, no matter what. I am not worried about it, as I know what to expect and as everyone else said, the wobble stops as soon as I place my hand on a handle bar. BTW, all my previous three bikes had wobble issues, the '86 Magna was probably the most noticeable.
 
I just went to Amazon they are out of the socket style steering head nut tool and not sure if they will receive any more. sigh I guess I will have to make one unless someone has one for sale. Good luck with that hard to find.
If you want to borrow one, the USPS flat rate small box is $10.40. It would cost $20.80 to ship mine both ways. I bought mine from Amazon for $30.00 but with tax and shipping from the UK it ended up being $50.00. The ones on eBay come from the UK as well. Send me a PM if you want to go that route. It would save you $30.00 on a tool you won't use very often, if ever again.
 
If you want to borrow one, the USPS flat rate small box is $10.40. It would cost $20.80 to ship mine both ways. I bought mine from Amazon for $30.00 but with tax and shipping from the UK it ended up being $50.00. The ones on eBay come from the UK as well. Send me a PM if you want to go that route. It would save you $30.00 on a tool you won't use very often, if ever again.
Thank you for the offer that was very generous of you. I received a PM from a local member ( friend) that made one from a socket.
 

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