Top Heavy - Relocate Battery?

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If you are going to keep it, invest in both front and rear suspensions. It will make a different bike out of it.

 
Since a properly maintained FJR will easily make 300k miles, you're 92k isn't hardly a dent yet. If you "can't" sell it, perhaps you're expecting too much out of it in the used market. Other than those 2 issues, the handling answers have already been addressed. The stock suspension has always been marginal; even when new. As with all other bikes using typical suspensions, they are sacked out at around 25k to 30k miles and need replacing. Since the suspension is a wear item, give the bike some love and get something nice for it. Works, Traxxon, Ohlins, Wilburs (are they still around?) can all set you up with something; each based on what you want to spend and how high you set your sights.

Is it a 300# race replica in the corners? Hell no. It wasn't meant to be. Does it handle well for it's intended design? Much better than some of the competition.

 
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I wonder if it wouldn't be worth meeting up with HotRodZilla and let him ride your bike to see if there isn't something out of whack with it. I know he's ridden several different FJRs (including mine), so he should have a good sampling to compare against.

 
I wonder if it wouldn't be worth meeting up with HotRodZilla and let him ride your bike to see if there isn't something out of whack with it. I know he's ridden several different FJRs (including mine), so he should have a good sampling to compare against.
Just wash the seat and handle bars after Zilla rides it. JSNS

 
It would be easier to lose a few pounds than to relocate the battery if she feels a little top heavy. Honestly relocating the battery wouldn't make much of a difference in my opinion. After you get a few thousand miles on her, I doubt that you will have the same view. Enjoy the bike!
Is 68,000 enough?
Ha ha ha. Yeah, 68,000 miles is plenty. I reread your post. Somehow I thought you were new to the bike even though you explained everything thoroughly. My mistake. I'll blame it on being tired.
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I wonder if it wouldn't be worth meeting up with HotRodZilla and let him ride your bike to see if there isn't something out of whack with it. I know he's ridden several different FJRs (including mine), so he should have a good sampling to compare against.
Actually we all know there is something wrong with it, the debate is what it is and whether I want to pump money into a bike that might be worth $4000 at the most because of it's high mileage.

 
Probably worth less and that is if you find a buyer.

If you don't like the bike, sell for whatever.

If you want to keep it, upgrade the suspension, add double risers, 2" longer clutch/brake lines and ride the crap out of it.

Your suspension is shot, that's all I've read that's wrong with it.

 
Jack, I have Racetech Springs and Gold Valves up front. I have a Wilbers shock in back, but it's currently out for a rebuild. I have a LOW mileage OEM shock in there now. Bike has just over 60k, and new Bridgestone T30GTs.

You can call High Velocity Cycles down by Zuni and San Pedro: 505-237-2006. Those guys are good, and they do great work on dirt bikes. The dirt crowd swears by them. I'm probably going to have them rebuild my Wilbers and have him set up my FJR. Can't remember the owner's name, but try them.

 
Jack, I have Racetech Springs and Gold Valves up front. I have a Wilbers shock in back, but it's currently out for a rebuild. I have a LOW mileage OEM shock in there now. Bike has just over 60k, and new Bridgestone T30GTs.
You can call High Velocity Cycles down by Zuni and San Pedro: 505-237-2006. Those guys are good, and they do great work on dirt bikes. The dirt crowd swears by them. I'm probably going to have them rebuild my Wilbers and have him set up my FJR. Can't remember the owner's name, but try them.
Did you put in the Gold Valves yourself? I have been curious about what Racetech says to do with the compression adjustment screw. When I rebuilt my forks I was shocked at what the FJR's "cartridge fork" valves really do. It would seem to me that the FJR's fork compression adjuster would be incompatible with Racetech's Gold Valves.

 
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Jack, another option if you have not already considered is a brand new OEM Gen3 rear shock. It can be purchased for a fairly decent price, actually cheaper than the Gen2 shock. It has a stronger spring and better damping. We put one on Dad's '07 and the results were remarkable. It had gradually sagged and the steering had gotten heavier over time without him noticing it. He had no trouble noticing the new shock.

I get the fact that the bike is old and if you want a new one I get that too. But it sounds to me like all you really need is some refreshed suspension.

Of course, with all the refinements of the Gen3...

 
"Jack, another option if you have not already considered is a brand new OEM Gen3 rear shock."

I have been procrastinating about that for a little over a year trying to choose between that option or a much more expensive one. My concern was that the GenIII shock would make the bike about as good as a new GenII was and in my original test ride I was not overly excited about how good that was. In the meantime I discovered that the bike had little monetary value. Fortunately I do not have to make a quick decision as I have other bikes. Unfortunately we have another issue that could dictate that we get a bike with a sidecar.

 
You have to do what is right for you but I can promise you the Gen3 shock is a wonderful upgrade over the original Gen2 shock. It made a HUGE difference, and Dad's bike did not have as many miles as yours does. Leaps and bounds better than the original.

I only mention it because it is a cheaper option.

 
I think I'm voting for the Gen3 shock then. Those who mentioned this are not fly-by-nighters.

As for the battery re-location? I'd forget that idea. I once had the same idea notion for it going under the seat, for low center of gravity and for convenience/access. It's best just to forget about this one entirely, like does this bike even have a battery? yup, forgotten!.

Good luck mate.

 
I relocated my stock battery underneath the seat. It fits perfect horizontally in the front compartment. I moved it back to the stock location later because I wanted the storage space back and I think the bike felt better balanced with the battery back up front... I know, weird right?

Either way, it's easily doable if you're good with running some wires around.

 
I relocated my stock battery underneath the seat. It fits perfect horizontally in the front compartment. I moved it back to the stock location later because I wanted the storage space back and I think the bike felt better balanced with the battery back up front... I know, weird right?
Either way, it's easily doable if you're good with running some wires around.
The ES has a control box in the bottom of that storage location. Not sure a stock battery would fit.

Why did you move it in the first place? A handling experiment as suggest by the OP?

 
I relocated my stock battery underneath the seat. It fits perfect horizontally in the front compartment. I moved it back to the stock location later because I wanted the storage space back and I think the bike felt better balanced with the battery back up front... I know, weird right?
Either way, it's easily doable if you're good with running some wires around.
The ES has a control box in the bottom of that storage location. Not sure a stock battery would fit.

Why did you move it in the first place? A handling experiment as suggest by the OP?
I actually was installing some 55w HIDs with big ballasts so I used that spot for those as well as try the battery lower. I went back to halogens and put the battery back up there.

 
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