Towns named Atlanta

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CHAPTER 4, August 2018: Delaware, New York, Ohio, and Kentucky

This set of Atlantas was collected over a three-day ride that was originally supposed to take me to Niagara Falls. When Kelly said she'd rather not go on this trip, the Falls got cut and I saved 3 hours. Hey, those three hours are significant, and Niagara will still be around when my bride and I decide to fly there.

Spotwalla trace can be found here.

This ride had me pondering some philosophical things:

1. I think of my FJR like a cowboy thinks of his horse. "We" made this trip together, and neither of us could have done it without the other.

2. No matter where we rode, there was incredible natural or man-made beauty. We saw National Forests, the Dismal Swamp, Chesapeake Bay, and downtown Cleveland and Cincinnati. We rode alongside the Susquehanna River at flood stage, and through the Great Smoky Mountains at dusk. Didn't stop, but stopping isn't always necessary to appreciate the scenery sliding by. I encourage you to ride 500 miles from home in search of something beautiful. Guarantee you'll find unexpected beauty, too!

3. There are inherent challenges in this style of touring that I relish: planning, navigation, endurance, handling city traffic. Meeting these challenges is fun. Yes, I like twisties as much as you do, but its very rewarding to look at a Spotwalla trace, and realize that you can ride long distances in three days without a lot of effort. It makes me wonder about where to go next.

4. How in the world do some of you guys find time to do these epic two-week trips? Burns me up with jealousy.

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We set off about 8 am Friday, with a weather report that offered 50/50 chances for rain in SC and NC. First stop was the Peachoid, alongside I-85 in Gaffney, SC. This water tower is located in Congressman Frank Underwood's electoral district in the Netflix series House of Cards. From what I hear, its a big thing for tourists. Looks vaguely X-rated, doesn't it?

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Stopped in Charlotte to eat lunch with my younger son and his family, then headed to Suffolk, Virginia, and the Super8 for the evening.

Rained almost the entire way from Charlotte to Suffolk. Five hours of mist, drizzle, rain, and downpour. Fine droplets to big goober drops that stung through my gloves and made a loud racket inside my helmet. Bike performed flawlessly, equipment held up fine, and I've seen most of this route several times before, so no big deal.
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An early start got us to the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel before 7:30 on Saturday, but alas, there is no Early Bird Special on the toll.

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This structure has been a bucket list location for many years, and the weather was perfect for this crossing: clouds over the shore, and clear over the Bay.

I didn't know there are two sequential tunnels; did you? One tunnel goes under the Thimble Shoal Channel, the other goes under the Chesapeake Channel. Was surprised to find that the bridge sections have two lanes in each direction, but the tunnels have just a single lane in each direction.

A toll lady vacuumed $15 from my wallet in Norfolk, but the Bridge-Tunnel did carry me about 15 miles over and under the water to the eastern shore of Virginia and Maryland. Is $1 per mile a bargain?

Here's the merge section as we entered the first tunnel.

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This photo was taken from my phone, in its magnetic cradle, just as a lark to see what would happen.

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We were now on the Delmarva Peninsula, and a few miles farther north got me to Atlanta, Delaware. If you look carefully at the road sign in the background, it will tell you how to get to Federalsburg or Seaford.

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Atlanta, Delaware, is a small cluster of houses surrounded by huge fields of corn and soybeans.

There must have been a lot of chicken houses - even though I only saw a few - because there was a giant Perdue chicken processing plant on US 13, and a giant Tyson chicken processing plant just a couple of miles further north. Two giant chicken factories within a couple of miles, but hardly any chicken farms. Is there a Delaware law that chicken farms must be hidden from the roadway?

The FJR turned left (towards Seaford) and went across the Chesapeake Bay Bridge on US 50 towards Baltimore. This was terrible from a traffic perspective, since everybody in Pennsylvania and New York was also crossing the bridge, going home after their summer beach vacation. Hot and slow; bogged down by construction.

However, this was cool from a geeky perspective because there are actually two separate bridges here, one eastbound and one westbound, that do not share the same structural types. Both have suspension main spans, although with significantly different tower shapes. Each bridge also has a minor span near the east end. Both minor spans are trusses, although one is an arched through truss while the other is a peaked through truss. No photos; I was too frustrated with traffic conditions ... and it was HOT.

I like bridges! Major bridges are huge projects. They consume mass quantities of money during construction, and typically a few lives, but they become powerful symbols: the Golden Gate Bridge, the Brooklyn Bridge, the Ponte Vecchio, and the Tower Bridge in London are all globally familiar.

Recently, I was lucky enough to design a very small piece of the New Goethals Bridge between Staten Island, New York, and Elizabeth, New Jersey. Its a really cool bridge, and its now equipped with the cameras, message signs, and fiber optic cables that I specified!

So anyway, I'm rolling up the highway, mindlessly thinking about bridges for a couple of hours, mindlessly looking at the beautiful scenery of central Pennsylvania, mindlessly following where Miss Google tells me to go, half-mindlessly observing the Susquehanna River well above flood stage, mindlessly passing through Williamsport, PA, and ......... why, lookie here!

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My FJR finds interesting stuff every time we go out of town!

Got to keep moving, though; we have a schedule to keep. So we turned right onto US 15/501 and headed north to Atlanta, New York.

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Atlanta, New York, is a small town squeezed up against North Cohocton. (Regular Cohocton is a few miles away. To the south.) It does have a Post Office, although the sign says Approved Postal Provider -- what does that mean, exactly?

Wikipedia says Atlanta, NY, is a hamlet in the northeast part of the town of Cohocton. There are five or six neatly-kept stores along the one-block downtown, surrounded by ten or twelve neatly-kept houses with neatly-kept lawns. It's a neatly-kept little place. We elected to take Atlanta Back Road on our return to the Jamestown Highway. The Back Road is a wickedly fun four miles along a ten-foot-wide asphalt roller coaster of a road, and soon we were back on the freeway headed to Jamestown.

What's in Jamestown, New York? Lots of things, I'm sure, but this is what I wanted to see:

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I loved Lucy, and still pause the channel surfing if I see her, or Ricky, or Ethel, or Fred.

Spent a long time exceeding the speed limit on I-86, the Southern Tier Expressway, before turning in for the night in a tidy, clean motel that was -- I swear -- like time traveling to the 1950s: the Dav-Ed Motel in Kingsville, Ohio. The desk guy owns an R-1, and ooohed and ahhhed appropriately at my FJR.
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Sunday, and we're headed for the barn with a few stops along the way. "Southbound and down, loaded up and trucking, we're gonna do what they say can't be done! We've got a long way to go and a short time to get there, southbound now, just watch your Uncle run."

Shortly after dawn, I snapped a photo for a buddy who's a lifelong Cleveland Browns fan. Blind loyalty is the only reason anyone is a Cleveland Browns fan these days. Gotta respect that.

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Jim Brown was an NFL hero of my pre-teen years. For two seasons, I seriously thought they named the whole team after him. Mr. Brown also has a long list of credits as a movie actor, and I wonder if he preferred being a running back or an actor.

Found this guy, too. He's neither an NFL running back nor a movie star, but he knows that breakfast is the most important meal of the day.

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Thanks for breakfast, ElToroJoe, and for the escort down the highway!

Found an entire field of these, and realized BikerGeek99 and Suze must be nearby. Sunday morning isn't the time to surprise folks, so our little train kept a'rolling.

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The concrete corncobs are an art installation that represents Ohio's corn farmers. As I rolled through Ohio for the next several hours, I began to see why: miles and miles and even more miles of corn. The corn fields are very long, very wide, and completely uninterrupted to the horizon. If you squint your eyes just right, you can imagine the tops of the corn as ground level, and the highway five or six feet below the surface. I imagined that a lot -- riding in a slot canyon five or six feet below the surface of the Earth -- just to keep away the boredom.
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Seriously, though, it was mind-boggling to think about how many corn cobs were in those fields, and how many people it would take to eat them all.

It was appropriate, then, to discover that Atlanta, Ohio, consists of two grain elevators.

I mean that literally: Atlanta, Ohio, isn't a town, just two grain elevators. I took a photo here, because the other location's sign said it was in New Holland. Turns out the Mennel Milling website says their Atlanta Grain facility is also in New Holland, despite the banner shown below. So, Atlanta, Ohio, is nothing but two grain elevators, and neither claims to be in Atlanta.

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We saddled up and headed south, to Cincinnati and another bridge.

I like bridges! John Roebling designed this one in the heart of Cincinnati to cross the Ohio River. It was the longest suspension bridge in the world when it was built in 1867, over 150 years ago. Mr. Roebling could not have foreseen the physical load it carries today, because gas-powered automobiles weren't developed until the 1900s -- over 30 years after the bridge opened!

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It was hot. Really hot. We crossed the river into downtown Covington, Kentucky, and parked on the sidewalk under a shade tree. I took off my Aerostich and realized my clothes were completely soaked in sweat. Looking around, I saw an unoccupied campsite where homeless folks must have been living. Grabbed my swim trunks and a clean t-shirt, hid behind some bushes, took off my wet clothes and put on the clean, dry clothes. What a difference! The wind whipped around my bare legs and my internal temperature dropped immediately.

Lee's Famous Recipe Chicken looked good, mostly because it was air conditioned, but it was a block behind me on a one-way street. The sidewalk was too narrow to turn around, and too high to drive off it into the street.

BMR training took over. I rode down the sidewalk to the street corner in swim trunks and a t-shirt; no helmet and no gloves, although I did have on clunky black moto-boots. Waited for the light to change, rolled down one ped ramp, up a ped ramp on the wrong-way side of the street, and putt-putt-putted on the sidewalk back to Lee's parking lot. (Thank goodness there weren't any police cruisers.)

The chicken was indeed good, and the coleslaw was GREAT.

After 45 minutes of cooling off, we headed into the heat again. A few hours later, I'm in BFE, also known as Atlanta, Kentucky. Google Street View showed absolutely nothing here that said Atlanta. Now I understand why: there really isn't anything here. No crossroads, a few houses spread far apart, nothing except this brand-new highway sign to suggest that this is a community. See for yourself:

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Wikipedia only says this about Atlanta, Kentucky: "Atlanta is an unincorporated community in Laurel County, Kentucky, United States. Its elevation is 1,010 feet (310 m), and it is located just off Route 30." They left out this part: "Population of Atlanta, KY = zero."
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The sun was starting to go down, and taking the temperature with it. It was still warm, but it was no longer broiling hot. The FJR chugged a full tank of gas while I chugged a big Gatorade, and we rolled quickly along a very familiar stretch of I-75 back to the house.
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Eleven down, six to go.


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At this moment:
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Great RR, Taylor...I'm glad that I got up early to meet you at the mistake on the lake, and got to share the ride for a short part of it. Hope you can make it up to Maggie Valley

 
Nice write-up Hud, thanks. You covered a bit of ground for sure. And I take the Goethals a little less than half the time, leaning towards the Outerbridge more often, but will be thinking of you now on the next pass.

(Btw, if you've never seen Ken Burns' Brooklyn Bridge documentary it might be worth looking for.)

 
Very cool read and idea for a ride. I just went through the Chesapeake Bay Tunnel Bridge myself on Sunday. Needed to stop on the northern end rest area to get a pressed penny for the IBA pressed penny challenge and it made more sense to go that route for a TOH memorial in Parksley, VA as well.

Anxious to see the next installment. Hope to see you at EOM.

 
Mr. Hud, you were right in my neck of the woods when you were on the Delmarva peninsula. I used to work a lot in Virginia Beach and crossed the Bay Bridge Tunnel MANY times. In fact, I watched the second span of bridges being built. It was very interesting. They are planning to add adjacent tunnels to relieve the four lane to two congestion. The toll may go up after that.
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Oh yeah, isn't it nice to set your cruise control at 80+ mph and still have that dashboard ECO badge lit?

I can see it now:

Me: "But officer, I'm being green and operating my bike economically."

Mirrored sunglasses: "Well, recalculate your economics after including cost of this speeding ticket."

 
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El Toro Joe posted: Great RR, Taylor...I'm glad that I got up early to meet you at the mistake on the lake, and got to share the ride for a short part of it. Hope you can make it up to Maggie Valley
Thanks for making the time to meet me. It's really cool to ride four states away and meet up with someone!

Cleveland isn't a mistake; Cavs, Indians, Browns, Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, boating with skyscrapers as your backdrop. As they say: Cleveland Rocks!

BigOgre posted: Nice write-up Hud, thanks. You covered a bit of ground for sure. And I take the Goethals a little less than half the time, leaning towards the Outerbridge more often, but will be thinking of you now on the next pass.
(Btw, if you've never seen Ken Burns' Brooklyn Bridge documentary it might be worth looking for.)
You have my pity if you're driving the Goethals during construction, although even THAT may be better than driving across the old bridge. During our first walk-through, it looked like parts of the old bridge superstructure were going to fall off at any moment. Despite that, I was mesmerized at being that high above water with active ship traffic below.

BkerChuck posted: Very cool read and idea for a ride. I just went through the Chesapeake Bay Tunnel Bridge myself on Sunday. Needed to stop on the northern end rest area to get a pressed penny for the IBA pressed penny challenge and it made more sense to go that route for a TOH memorial in Parksley, VA as well.
Anxious to see the next installment. Hope to see you at EOM.
Almost as cool a ride as your IBA Pressed Penny Challenge. 100 pennies from 20 different states, right? Good thing you're near New England where you can touch all six states with just a few hours' ride.

Gitbox posted: Mr. Hud, you were right in my neck of the woods when you were on the Delmarva peninsula. I used to work a lot in Virginia Beach and crossed the Bay Bridge Tunnel MANY times. In fact, I watched the second span of bridges being built. It was very interesting. They are planning to add adjacent tunnels to relieve the four lane to two congestion. The toll may go up after that.
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That will make it more than $1 per mile, but it's a tremendous time-saver for NY and PA folks that vacation at Virginia Beach, and probably well worth the cost. Oh yeah, please don't call me "Mister" Hud. You'll destroy my reputation around here for immaturity.

 
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Today, I realized that Team Strange has a 'State of Confusion' touring rally with seven towns named Atlanta as bonus locations. Link here, last page. Guess who's going to score some big points this summer?

If you have never done a Team Strange rally, you're missing out on some big fun!

 
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I was raised in Boise and Atlanta was one of my favorite camping and fishing spots. My friend Brent and I would throw down a tarp and our sleeping bags, gaze at the stars and listen to the mountain lion screams. In the morning we would get up early and catch our limits of trout. In those days RV's were practically non existent so we had the camping and fishing pretty much to ourselves. Miss those wonderful days.
I wouldn't be afraid to ride my FJR into Atlanta. It did have some severe washboards though and the road is made up mostly of decomposed granite.
There wasn't much of anything when you were that age Jer. Hell Henry Ford hadn't invented the production line yet.
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CHAPTER 5, Memorial Day weekend, May 2019: Indiana, Michigan, Wisconsin, Minnesota, and Missouri

This set of Atlantas was collected during a four-day ride over the Memorial Day weekend. If you’ve been reading along, you know I am stingy with my vacation days, so the plan was to leave Friday and return Monday. That would involve burning only one vacation day.

I’ve called it the Yooper Loop because the main sightseeing goal was the Mackinac Bridge to Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, and I’d make a big loop on the U.P. around Lake Michigan. As an aside, Team Strange had a States of Confusion touring rally where I could get points for four of my Atlantas, so I signed up! Adding stops along the route for even more Strange points, I figured on nailing this Team Strange rally!

Alas! Things got a bit convoluted and, at the last minute, I decided to leave on the Thursday before Memorial Day. That screwed me out of meeting Bustanut Joker, whose vulgar humor (yes, his HUMOR) was one of the original reasons I joined this Forum. Sorry, Bust; see you at next year’s Owosso Tech Day.

(Apparently, the other guys I’d planned to meet have no social life whatsoever, and were available despite the re-arranged schedule.)

Spotwalla trace can be found here.

This ride was one of my more ambitious rides, but the bike has gradually become my main transport and it’s been farkled enough so I fit very comfortably on the saddle and behind the handlebars. Tornados in Iowa and northern Missouri a week or so prior to departure caused slight concern, but forecasts during the three days prior to departure showed little chance of storms. My detailed planning spreadsheet (translation: I might be a little OCD) had been checked and re-checked:

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During the last few days before departure, I checked stuff again and again. Bike was good; weather was good; I felt good; work was good. I could do this guilt free, and would complete the Atlanta Tour and place well in the Team Strange rally!
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CHAPTER 5a, May 2019: Indiana

Thursday started fine. The FJR and I started at 6:00 am and headed north on I-75. About two hours later, we were crossing Nickajack Lake just west of Chattanooga. Done it three dozen times in the past ten years. This bridge is a fine example of modern Interstate bridge building: simple, economical, and functional.

I’ve always thought of it as the “Soulless Bridge” because there’s absolutely nothing special about it. See what I mean?

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There’s absolutely nothing special about it … except the view. Since this is such a minimalist bridge, there’s nothing to block the driver’s view of the lake and its mountainous edges.

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See that other soulless bridge in the distance? Bet the view from there is schweet. So maybe the bridge isn’t soulless after all. Maybe it’s just how you look at it, or how you look FROM it.

Three hours later and we’re in Buffalo, Kentucky, to collect Team Strange points.

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As we hit the road from Buffalo, my FJR found Abraham Lincoln’s birthplace! There was a long line of folks waiting for pictures, so I just snapped a quickie ...

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… and ten minutes later, we were in Boston, Kentucky. This Team Strange rally is gonna be a cakewalk!

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Around a gentle curve on KY 61, and … SURPRISE! Jim Beam’s Booker Noe plant! That’s their small-batch, high-octane stuff. Thanks, FJR, I had no idea this was on our route! My FJR may be a better ride planner than me. We decided against a tasting and headed north.

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I got us lost in Louisville, trying to avoid a toll bridge. Probably spent more money in gas than the $4 toll. At any rate, here’s a photo of the no-toll bridge I originally wanted to use: the George Rogers Clark Memorial Bridge carrying US 31 across the Ohio River. (George Rogers Clark is one of the guys in “Lewis and Clark”.)

The Clark Memorial Bridge is a truss— a real-life steel Erector set — that you drive through, so it’s called a ‘through truss bridge’. It’s getting painted a cool yellow/gold color.

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This next pic has three bridges: a peaked through truss (highway), a cable-stayed bridge (highway), and an arched through truss (rail-turned-pedestrian).

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Truss bridges have been around for 200 years or so. They first were built with timber, then steel, and now, some pedestrian truss bridges are made with high-strength plastics or fiberglass. Many truss designs were (and still are) patented.

Cable-stayed bridges have at least one tall tower with a fan of cables. Each cable can be as large as your waist, and the cables support the bridge deck like spider web tendrils. Cable-stayed bridges became uber-fashionable 40 or 50 years ago. They’ve become the go-to design for landmark bridges, especially when dramatic lighting illuminates the cables and the towers.

From front to back …
Peaked through truss: John F Kennedy Bridge (I-65 southbound, TOLLED)
Cable-stayed: Abraham Lincoln Bridge (I-65 northbound, TOLLED)
Arched through truss: Big Four Bridge (named for the Big Four railroad company that built it, now pedestrians only and presumably free)

After I got un-lost and made it to southern Indiana, I saw a big billboard that said, “Welcome Home, Brothers of the Iron Order”. Perhaps they were having some kind of big meeting in their Jeffersonville, IN, headquarters, because I saw lots of southbound Harley riders for the next several hours. The Iron Order MC tries be an MC without being an MC, and is pretty big in metro ATL and Middle Georgia. Look ‘em up; they allow FJR riders to become members.

An hour or so later, I rolled into Indianapolis. Oh, snap! The big race is in town this weekend! The security lady was nice, but insisted we move within two minutes. Had to grab a quick photo from close by, rather than crossing the street and getting the entire Speedway’s name.

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Another hour later and we’re in Atlanta, Indiana, collecting a photo. WooHoo! Since this was a Strange bonus, my “cutesy” photo got replaced by an “official building” photo of the Post Office and my rally flag.

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Atlanta, Indiana, is a substantial town; probably eight blocks by four blocks rising in the middle of corn fields. They have a New Earth festival in late September, featuring the Flying Toasters Band. Anybody who used computers 30 years ago knows about Flying Toasters, but the town website has no explanation of the festival or why it’s held. Maybe an FJR rider should attend this year and report back to us.

It was getting chilly now. The sun was getting very low and the temperature had dropped below 60. We met Timmy (DesignFlaw06) at the Holland (Michigan) Best Buy and I put on a fleece jacket that I had added as an afterthought just before leaving the house. Thank goodness for lucky happenstances.

I didn’t get a photo of Tim, but I'll post one right here ...

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... if he wants the internet exposure. (By the way, his bike was sparkling clean when we met, just as it is in this photo!)

Just so you know, Timmy is a kid. A big kid and a very nice kid, but still far younger than I imagined. Both my sons are older than he is. It’s semi-depressing to realize an FJR biker bro can be that young, because that makes me realize my own age.

He took me by the USS Silversides, the most decorated submarine in World War 2. Thanks, man! That was a VERY cool experience for a sub vet!

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Tim and his family accepted me warmly, and I slept like a log.

Thursday: Georgia to Michigan, about 875 miles and 15 hours.

 
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CHAPTER 5b, May 2019: Michigan and Wisconsin


Friday dawned clear and cold: it couldn't have been much over 50F, and it didn't get above 60F all day long. I put on two long-sleeve tees (all that I brought), my lightweight long pants (only long pants I brought), my thickest socks, and dug out the cold weather gloves. Crossed my fingers and hoped the sun would be out soon and strong.

Whasssup with Michigan's freezing cold weather at the end of May? From now on, when I call this part of the country "America's Tundra", I won't be joking.

Tim's son had to be at school, it being Friday, so the three of us grabbed breakfast together. That boy's a bright one and a mighty fine breakfast companion Shy? Not in the least.

We (the FJR and I) headed up US 131 and US 127, then turned right into some of the most enjoyable riding I've done in a long, long time: County Road F-38 and MI 32 through deep woods, rolling hills, and lots of nothingness until we hit Atlanta, Michigan. It was a GREAT RIDE.

Here's the target photo, with no elks seen anytime, anywhere:

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and here's the Team Strange "official building" photo.

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Atlanta, Michigan, is a small city, and probably the "big city" this far north. Wikipedia says its not an official, incorporated municipality. That's unusual, because Montmorency County's website says their address is in Atlanta, MI, 49709. They even have a Chamber of Commerce. I suppose it also means there are no incorporated municipalities in Montmorency County?

So, it's not an officially incorporated municipality, although it has a population of almost 800 people (2000 census). Wonder if they have those 800 people in the winter? Seems like it would get awfully bleak and cold way up here.

From Atlanta, we headed north on MI 33, and after two dozen signs telling me to watch for snowmobiles (which I did diligently, seeing none) we joined I-75 northbound at Miami Beach. (Not kidding.) Interesting that this trip started on I-75 northbound the day before, about two miles from my house.

Here's the Mackinac Bridge. Not sure why the photo quality is this poor, especially since I risked my life crossing to the narrow median. Oh well. I swear its the Mackinac Bridge and I swear I took this photo.

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The Mac (as they referred to it in Atlanta) is a suspension bridge. Long suspension cables drape over the tops of the two towers. Suspender cables hang vertically from the suspension cables and support the bridge deck. This was the style for landmark bridges before the cable-stayed style became more fashionable. Three well-known suspension bridges are the Brooklyn Bridge, the Golden Gate bridge, and the infamous Tacoma Narrows Bridge (Galloping Gertie).

We turned left onto the first mile of US 2 (or the last mile, depending on your perspective), and headed west. A flotilla of 15 or 20 pirates appeared, doing the speed limit or 5 under; a trike bringing up the rear. Without being rude (my opinion) we waited for a chance and passed half of them, sliding into the column just behind a woman rider.

She had on a helmet -- amazing how many states are helmet-optional -- and a sleeveless tee over jeans and chaps. I must have made her uneasy or annoyed, because she kept checking her mirror to see where I was. We were as polite as Southern Gentlemen are expected to be, and stayed in her mirror's field of view. Four or five minutes later, another chance appeared and we squirted ahead.

After a bit of separation from them, we slowed to 5 over and enjoyed the beach, the sun, and the notion that we were on the UP. This was a big deal to me, and I wanted to enjoy it!

All of a sudden, I noticed a black cloud off to the right, low above the bushes. "Uh oh; somethings on fire up ahead."

No. It was a cloud of MIDGES! Within 60 seconds, I had slaughtered thousands of them with my helmet and become almost blind. You know how you can move your face around in slow circles to see a little better? I was doing that for five minutes before finding a gas station to clean them off.

Gas station guy, walking out to speak to me: "How's it going?"
Me: "Not bad, except for these bugs."
Him: "Yeah. Midges are bad today. Had to refill the wash buckets three times already."

This photo is after I cleaned them off the visor. My ride didn't get the wipedown.

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As I was finishing up with the midges, what did I hear? The pirate parade rolling by. Had to pass them again. <groan> Guess what else? Had to clean off midges again -- twice -- before finally leaving their turf.

US 2 emerged from the Sault St Marie Forest and quickly became urbanized. This was a disappointment, since the northern Michigan woods had been so much fun.

My next photo was of this sign:

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(go ahead, ask the question ... ) Why take a photo of this sign, Uncle Hud?

Because years ago, I watched a Jeff Daniels movie with my teenaged boys called Escanaba in da Moonlight. It was stupid and silly, but it had us laughing hard and laughing together. So, I stopped in Escanaba for my kids. (Even though they probably don't remember the movie or the occasion.) Mr Daniels wrote the script and grew up just outside of Ann Arbor, so the movie may be somewhat autobiographical

We kept rolling west. US 2 turned off and we stayed on US 41. (Also interesting, my FJR and I ride on US 41 almost every day -- when commuting to work in Atlanta, GA.) After a few miles, we turned west onto County Road G-18, a nice, straight two-lane road, through miles and miles of forest. US 8 joined us soon after crossing into Wisconsin, but the character of the road remained unchanged, and this ride was spectacular: woods and woods and wetlands and more woods. Yes, it was mostly straight and mostly flat, but it was a lovely day and we were flying down a lovely road in the middle of Wisconsin's lovely North Woods.

And I have never seen so many logging trucks! Down south, they're loaded with pines; the entire length of pine tree after all the branches are cut off. In Wisconsin and in Michigan they're loaded with hardwoods and cut uniformly into ten-foot logs that are carried cross-wise on huge trailers.

It was a little strange to finally realize that the highway didn't go into each town, but passed within one or two miles. I figured that out while searching for gas and a bathroom: "Next town, dude. Next town for sure." But the advertised towns never appeared on the highway, just a sign pointing left or right with the distance painted on it.

We were flying, passing responsibly, and not on the double yellow. The town of Ladysmith appeared on the highway! It had gas and a bathroom! We pulled in to fill up the FJR and empty me. A pickup truck pulled in to the pump behind us, and the driver got out and approached us rather quickly.

him: You scared the &@%$! out of me when you passed back there!
me: Sorry, man. Did I do something wrong?
No, you just appeared out of nowhere and went by so quickly I had no idea you were behind me.
Sorry, man; I gotta pee really bad.
I understand, he said, and went inside.

The bike was filled and it was now my turn for service, when who do I see coming out of the bathroom? Pickup dude. He repeated, See, I understand.

After a six-inch Subway for dinner, we turned north in Bruce and went looking for Atlanta, Wisconsin.

Google aerials had showed a small building there, like a community center. Street View had shown nothing but a green field, but the Street View photo was 5 years old.

There is only one building in Atlanta, Wisconsin, up a short gravel driveway from WI Highway 40. We turned in, hoping it wasn't somebody's barn, and were rewarded with a sign that says Atlanta Town Hall.

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Wikipedia says Atlanta, Wisconsin, is an incorporated town in Rusk County, population 627 in the 2000 census, although I saw no evidence of residents anywhere. It also set me wondering about what makes a town, especially when comparing this with the much larger Atlanta, Michigan.

Back on US 8 west, then south on Four Town Road to Dallas, WI, and more Strange points. The Dallas Town Hall was had small painted letters in the front window, and experience told me that wouldn't photograph well. Here's what I got instead:

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Night fell soon afterward, and we crossed into Minnesota on the St. Croix Crossing bridge. How could I have missed this bridge in my planning? (Answer: it doesn't look like a big river crossing, and I looked at the wrong bridge in Street View.)

This bridge is fabulous! We crossed it well after dark, but it was tastefully lit up and absolutely stunning. It's cable-stayed (fashionable, of course!) with five sets of towers and the corresponding five sets of cable fans. It was dark, after 10 pm local, we were traveling 60-65 mph, and the bridge's appearance caught me by surprise. Couldn't stop for a photo, and no easy U-turn opportunity came up. Since I have no photos, I stole this one from MNDOT:

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An hour later we had passed through Minneapolis. The FJR was parked, and I fell fast asleep in a super-clean Super 8 in St. Cloud.

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Friday: Michigan to Minnesota, about 870 miles and a little over 15 hours

 
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Chapter 5c: Minnesota and Missouri


Saturday started at the Super 8 St Cloud after a solid, though short, sleep; overcast, but no big deal. Weather report said no rain. Saddled up at 7:00 am and started northwest. This was planned to be my longest day, and I was ready for it.

Bike is cruising, I feel comfortable, temperature is good, and the podcast is a story about a woman who attended her ex-boyfriend's wedding so she could stand up during the part where you "speak now or forever hold your peace". Checked my mirrors to see some powerful blue and red flashing lights behind me.

Pulled onto the shoulder and motioned that I wanted to take off my helmet. The young man in the sharp uniform with his Smokey Bear hat nodded.

Minnesota State Policeman: "How you doing this morning?"
Me: "Great, up until a minute ago."
"Know how fast you were going?"
"Not really. It's pretty empty out here with four lanes and a big grass median."
"I clocked you at 83 ..."
"83?!"
"... and you didn't notice me for a minute."
"Sorry, I was listening to a podcast and this lady is going to stand up in the wedding and say how her ex-boyfriend shouldn't get married."
"Uh huh. Where you headed?"
"Atlanta, Minnesota."
"Really? Look of confusion. And where is Atlanta, Minnesota?"
"Ummmm," as I walked to the handlebars, "Google says 84 more miles up this road."
"Meeting somebody there?"
"Yeah, an internet buddy from South Dakota that rode with me in Arkansas three years ago."
"Well, OK then," in that accent famous from the movie Fargo.
"I'm riding to all 16 Atlantas in the US, and I should touch them all by Sunday."
"I see."

I pulled my spreadsheet from the topbox -- hands always visible. "You want this copy? I'm a little OCD so I still have four spares."

"No, you keep it. License please," and he disappeared into his Ford Interceptor.

He came out a minute later with a nicely printed sheet, WARNING printed large on the top line.

"You slow down, OK? I don't want to see you again, and I'm on duty until 4 pm."
"Yes, sir, and thanks."

Nice guy. Hope he gets some mileage out of my excuse.

Within a few minutes, AbercrombieFJR called: "I'm at Casey's in Lake Park. It's where you'll turn right to get to Atlanta."

Good thing he called, because we were already at the turn.

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Of course the Senas wouldn't sync. After wasting fifteen minutes, I said, "Why don't you call me on the phone? That will work as long as we have cell service."

We rode north for a few miles on County Road 7, alone on the prairie with nothing in sight except black soil and a few trees against the far, far horizon. As we approached the turn to 170 Avenue from 330 Street -- hilarious that its called 170 Avenue or 330 Street, because there's nothing around but cropland -- we both could see the large white church beautifully illuminated by the morning sun, framed by big green oak trees with a background of grey sky.

170 Avenue was a muddy road, with puddles here and there. AbercrombieFJR said something like, "Glad I brought the Super Tenere!" I said something like, "No sweat, brother! I got this," which is NOT AT ALL what I was thinking.

My mind was hitting the rev limiter: " *&%#^ this. I've ridden for 1,750 miles, only to risk dropping the bike or crashing, in a place where it will take all *&%#^ day for a wrecker to get here. And if the bike gets damaged, how *&%#^ much is it going to cost to get us home? I'm a *&%#^ moron."

Well, we made it there without incident. It was a short, but memorable, adrenaline-raising adventure.

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(The sign says, "Where two or three are gathered in my name, there I am also." Uncle Hud is not a heathen.)

Just prior to snapping the pic, we had a nice conversation with a farmer who was bringing flowers to his parents' graves. Then I realized the adventure wasn't over. I had to get the FJR out of there, too.

Shes a good girl, my FJR, and I suppose she prefers to fall on pavement rather than mud. Her well-worn back tire wiggled a few times, but we reached the asphalt and rejoiced! Nobody will ever convince me that Dunlop RoadSmart 3 tires don't grip in the wet.

We rode on little bitty county roads between Atlanta, Minnesota, and Fargo. Almost an hour, past rows upon rows of tiny iridescent green shoots emerging symmetrically from soil as black as the inside of a cave on a moonless night. Trees appeared every now and then, surrounding a house or barn, protecting it from what must be fierce winds on this flat, flat prairie.

We got to the Fargo airport, where I had planned for this pic. AbercrombieFJR said he'd only seen the gravestone in Google Street View. We found the black diamond shape immediately. That's AbercrombieFJR in the photo. No southern rider wears black gear in the summertime.

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Roger Maris hit 61 home runs in 1961, setting an MLB record that stood until Hank Aaron came along. I was a very young boy, listening to baseball on the radio, and marveling at what he did, even if sticklers insist the record should carry an asterisk. By all accounts, Mr Maris was a good guy, too; never complaining that he wasn't inducted into baseball's Hall of Fame. He still isn't.

AbercrombieFJR led me through a serious road construction site to get to the Veterans Memorial Bridge over Fargo's Red River. I was surprised at the lack of flags for Memorial Day, but maybe that was because of the road construction.

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This bridge is a conventional soulless bridge that has nice brickwork and stately columns to dress it up. That's appropriate: this bridge has a role as a major river crossing, and marks the connection between Minnesota and North Dakota. The folks responsible for its aesthetics should be congratulated: Job Well Done.

Turns out our buddy AbercrombieFJR is the honest-to-goodness, real-life Mayor of Abercrombie, North Dakota. Since the only café in Abercrombie is also a bar, this photo of THE MAYOR IN A BAR BEFORE NOON isn't worth any blackmail money. Doesn't he look like a Mayor?

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I saddled up and headed south for a dinner date with CraigRegs in West Des Moines. This was a long stretch of Interstate miles, but it wasn't boring since this is not my usual topography.

Hills that are steeper than rolling, but short, not tall. Crop rows were curved to match to hillsides, unlike the straight-as-an-arrow rows from this morning. Not a lot of livestock, but there were fences and feeder bins, so they must've been hiding just over the hilltops.

We turned left a few miles north of Omaha and set the cruise for an appropriate speed to get us to CraigRegs on time.

There are a lot of windmills in Iowa. A lot. We passed a rest area with one windmill blade mounted vertically, but we were eastbound and the rest area was for westbound vehicles. Those blades are 116 feet tall, almost the size of a ten-story building.

Met CraigRegs at a Kum-and-Go in Walnut, about 90 minutes west of Des Moines. Tried to sync Senas for 10 minutes. No go, of course. Suggested the same "call me on the phone" solution, which worked, of course, and off we went.

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Aren't we the cutest little grey-haired twins in our matching Aerostich one-piece suits?

We arrived in West Des Moines a little after 8 pm, and pulled into a Quiznos. My host had done some scouting, and realized the Subway where we planned to meet had been demolished. The Quiznos was next door, served us a nice dinner, and was exactly what I needed.

We took off together, and I had an excellent traveling companion for another hour or so down IA Highway 5. CraigRegs is a great guy for conversation. Don't miss a chance to ride with him!

He peeled off for home, and the drizzle started. (Hope you got home dry, brother!)

It had been drizzling with maybe a bit of light rain by the time my FJR and I got gas in Knoxville, IA, just before the 9:30 pm sunset.

Now it began raining. Really hard. Thunder and lightning. IA 5 goes through the middle of nowhere, and it was dark as could be. No street lights, very few other cars on the highway, and it was raining so hard that the FJR's bright lights just reflected off the raindrops and made it hard to see anything.

What do you do? There wasn't anywhere to stop that offered protection, so we just kept going. Dim headlights provided decent illumination for progress at 45 to 50 mph. When the lightning stroked every few minutes, it would light up everything like a flashbulb, and I could see the highway stretch out ahead. So, that was good, in a horror-movie kind of way.

When cars passed me, I could follow their tail lights at 60 to 65 mph. But it was after 9 pm on the Saturday night of a three-day weekend, and most folks were holed up for the night with the TV, a bottle, friend(s), or some combination of those three, especially in this weather. So, most of the cars that passed me turned off after I'd followed them for less than 15 minutes, and we slowed to 45 mph again.

Things got a little more interesting when Google said to turn off IA 5 at Moravia, and onto teeny-tiny County Road J3T. Decision time.

Years ago, I realized that there is a point in a Rally Route where the shortest way home also happens to be the same route as you'd planned for the rally. In other words, there is no Bailout Route. The unique routing that got you to where you are now -- which is also where you want to bailout -- has eliminated all the quick ways home, except the way you were going to go anyway.

So, decision time turned into realization time, and we kept heading south through Unionville, Moulton, and Coatsville, hoping for more frequent strokes of lightning or a slackening of the rain. The highway changed names to IA/MO 202, but didn't change much in terms of anything else.

At 11 pm local, we saw a gas station in Lancaster, MO, with a drive-under roof. We didn't need gas, but I didn't care about blocking the gas pumps. There was nobody on the road anyway. Who's going to be stopping in for gas and a chat with the third shift guys tonight?

I went inside to pee, and apologized for dripping water everywhere. Bought a small coffee to ward off the wet and chill (thank goodness it wasn't cold outside!) and spent 15 minutes trying to relax. Opened my weather radar app to see what was in store.

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Note the time: 11:10 pm. We are at the blue dot. Hannibal, MO, our destination for the night, is in the middle of that pink Severe Thunderstorm Warning area. Hannibal is still 200 miles away. You can see the orange and yellow and green stuff in between. The weather system is moving from left to right, exactly the same direction we are traveling. The weather is moving at 15-20 mph. We will be moving at 40-45 mph, and catching up to it.

It rained cats and dogs almost constantly. The lightning was still received gladly. About 30 minutes prior to Atlanta, the highway (US 63) changed to four-lane divided, with street lights at major intersections. That made it easier, since I could ride just off the white stripe between lanes and assure myself there was plenty of room to either side if needed.

According to Spotwalla, we got to Atlanta, Missouri, at 18 minutes past midnight. Google Maps was acting up, so I wandered for a few minutes before finding the "official building" photo site required for Strange points. Forget the Uncle Hud target photo. Not wasting any energy on that kind of silliness. I was wet, cold, hungry, and completely exhausted from anxiety.

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The rain stopped just as I snapped the photo.

Sorry, but I have no real impression about Atlanta, Missouri. A cop car eased by me two times while I was setting up the photo, and I silently dared him to come ask what I was doing. A Jeep Cherokee circled the block and drove through the little parking area where my bike was illuminating the photo shoot. He thought better of disturbing the crazy motorcycle guy, in the rain, at midnight, hanging a flag off the broken gutter trim of the downtown Post Office in Atlanta, Missouri. I would have, too.

Wikipedia estimates the 2017 population of Atlanta, Missouri, as 375 people. I have no idea about the accuracy of that estimate. Perhaps this town will be a stop during the next Hooterville, and everyone can see what it looks like on a sunny day.

We rode south for a few miles, then turned almost due east on US 36. We got to the grungy Super 8 in Hannibal at 1:43 am local time. I didn't care about anything except a warm shower and a bed.

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Saturday: Minnesota to Missouri, over 970 miles and far too long in the saddle

 
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Chapter 5d: Illinois

Sunday morning in Hannibal, Missouri. The home of Mark Twain, Huckleberry Finn, and Tom Sawyer. Legendary stop for Mississippi paddlewheel boats. I was having none of that.

Today, we are going home.

After checking the weather radar, our planned 7:00 am departure was delayed for thirty minutes. It was drizzling outside, but it was the very back end of a system that was moving northeast. We would be heading east, then south, so I decided the weather should get a healthy head start. The delay also allowed me to get my own healthy head start: a breakfast of four biscuits and sausage gravy.

While slurping up breakfast, I gave myself a small pep talk: “You’re tired, so pay attention to the GPS and don’t miss any turns. Be alert to pavement conditions after last night’s storm. We’re headed through many hours of rural Illinois this morning, so don’t miss a gas station after the range drops to 50 miles.”

This, too: “Don’t waste time on any more bridge photos. Get Atlanta, Illinois, and the Team Strange bonus photos, and GET YOURSELF HOME BEFORE DARK.”

The emphasis was to underscore that after-sunset riding in metro Atlanta’s legendary traffic can often be more thrilling than last night’s storm.

So, we crossed the Mississippi on the Mark Twain Memorial Bridge within five minutes of leaving the hotel (on I-72 eastbound), and I have no photo. If you’re interested, it’s a soulless interstate bridge with a short, arched through truss as the center span.

Welcome to Illinois! The light drizzle faded quickly as we rolled eastward, but there were full ditches and partially-flooded fields on either side of the highway. We arrived in Detroit, where I took this photo for me,

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(get it? “Detroit Motors”? With Illinois highway signs?)

... and took this one for Strange points.(City Limit signs are acceptable.)

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I relented from my earlier vow to skip bridge photos, and punched in the coordinates for the IL 106 drawbridge crossing the Illinois River. OK, whatever. I’ll get one more bridge photo.

When we left the Interstate, the roadside flooding became more serious. On two occasions, the water was within a few feet of the asphalt. At the bridge, I was dumbfounded. Water was just below the bridge deck, perhaps as close as four feet. At least one hundred feet of woodland was flooded on each side of the river; trees jutting up from the water.

It was eerily quiet, although the bridge tender’s car was parked in his reserved parking space at the side of the road.

This bridge has multiple spans: several arched through trusses planted on short towers at 50-foot intervals. It is a drawbridge, though, with a lift span in the center. The center span has a tall tower at each end, with big cables, big pulleys, and huge blocks of concrete. The concrete weighs almost as much as the lift span, making it (relatively) easy for motors to turn the pulleys and lift the center span straight up.

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I knew my photo wouldn’t show the lift span well, but I wasn't going to take another photo. I was too tired, and significantly affected by the silence, the flooding, and the swift current in the river’s center. This was a somber scene, like a bad car crash on the freeway. Just by its solemnity, it discouraged rubbernecking. I muttered a prayer for the people and animals killed or rendered homeless by the floodwaters.

Onward, then to Buffalo, Illinois, more Strange points, and closer to home.

The GPS took me straight to the Buffalo, IL, Post Office, and … I couldn’t find my rally flag. It wasn’t in the topbox where it belonged, and it wasn’t stuffed into either hardcase. Well, that’s that. No rally flag, no points. I must’ve left it in Detroit, and I sure as hell wasn’t backtracking an hour to retrieve it.

I was very tired, still a little stunned by the flooding’s devastation, crushed that I left my rally flag (after how many years of successful touring rallies, Hud?), and generally bummed about everything.

Yeah, it was a moment of serious introspection. Reminded me of a post by 101stpathfinder years ago after one of his bruising Iron Butt rides. “Why am I doing this? It’s exhausting. It costs significant money for hotels, gas, and tires. It separates me from those I love. It’s sometimes cold and wet, and other times roasting hot. Why am I doing this?

Well, I’m damn sure not going to leave one Atlanta unvisited. That would prickle at me forever. It’s only 45 minutes from here. After all the swearing and kicking and shouting at myself, it all came down to this: “Your quest is almost finished. Let’s git’er’done.”

It was Sunday morning, and a phone call to Kelly righted my attitude. “You get your last Atlanta, and come on home.” Same thing I had just said to myself, just better syntax, no curse words, and a much more pleasant voice.

So here’s my photo of Atlanta, Illinois:

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And now we were headed home. Straight home.

Flower sniffing, literally:

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Giant fields of 3-foot-tall flowers as yellow as the sunshine. They were all over Illinois, at least beside the tiny little county roads (like the one in this photo) that carried me from Atlanta to Farina and I-57. Jeez, man, that is flat and straight.

Mileage milestone. I figured it’s a lucky number and a good omen.

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No pictures of ... the Ohio River bridge in Paducah, Murray State, Austin Peay State, or the Cumberland River bridge in Nashville.

We got home about 9:30, an hour after sunset, but Atlanta traffic didn’t require me to slow below 80 mph until I got off at my exit.

I am finished with this ride, having touched 16 of the 17 towns named Atlanta in the US.
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PS: I am not going to nail this Team Strange rally, because I’m not going to submit any photos at all. I’m going to think about things for a while.

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Sunday: Missouri to Georgia, about 825 miles and 13 hours

Entire trip: a little more than 3,500 miles (5,600 km) over four days (four metric days)


as of this moment:

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