DRHall
Well-known member
What tracks do you run out there Andre?Looks floggable to me. Go in at $3500.
Dale
What tracks do you run out there Andre?Looks floggable to me. Go in at $3500.
What year(s) and with what team(s)? I was there in 2000 (working in the pits, not riding).I've run ...Willow Springs (24 hour events)...
Race plastics are 1 of 2 things:What are race plastics?
Same skin just without cutouts for lights?
would that be the diff in some that are listed as race/track vs track road?
What I've read is that the advantage of the fiberglass body work is that you can repair/patch it... lots cheaper than new tupperware.Race plastics are 1 of 2 things:What are race plastics?
Same skin just without cutouts for lights?
would that be the diff in some that are listed as race/track vs track road?
1) stock bodywork that has been rashed that most people wouldn't use on their street bike, so, they put it on their sacrificial race/track day bike
2) fiberglass/composite bodywork that looks like stock bodywork that comes unpainted, but, in most cases, there aren't provisions for lights.
You can also patch/repair oem bodywork. Yes, it's cheaper than OEM, but, for a race/track bike, you can sometimes piece together previously rashed OEM bodywork for the same/less than a new set of aftermarket bodywork. Plus, with OEM bodywork, you retain all of the stock mounting points. Sometimes it can be a pain to mount up aftermarket bodywork as it's usually not drilled. Sometimes there a dimples in aftermarket bodywork to show where holes could be drilled for mounting it, but, often those marks are off. Poorly mounted bodywork often gets destroyed in the lightest of crashes. The better and more solid its mounted, the better it crashes.What I've read is that the advantage of the fiberglass body work is that you can repair/patch it... lots cheaper than new tupperware.Race plastics are 1 of 2 things:What are race plastics?
Same skin just without cutouts for lights?
would that be the diff in some that are listed as race/track vs track road?
1) stock bodywork that has been rashed that most people wouldn't use on their street bike, so, they put it on their sacrificial race/track day bike
2) fiberglass/composite bodywork that looks like stock bodywork that comes unpainted, but, in most cases, there aren't provisions for lights.
:withstupidsmiley:I roadraced for 18 years. I'm an ex WERA race school instructor, ex WERA Race Director, and I have a couple of expert level regional championships with CMRA and WERA in the Texas, Oklahoma, Louisiana region. (Ben Spies, Colin Edwards, etc. etc etc.) I'm only mentioning these things so you'll understand I have an experienced perspective. (It may not be correct, but it's experienced.)
If your interest is in getting better with a literbike, then by all means, buy any of the three and have fun.
However, if your interest is in getting GOOD at corners, planning, execution, and recovery, then buy an old 600 and learn how to wring its neck. There is a thing called RACECRAFT that you'll never learn by starting on a literbike. Too much concentration is required on a literbike, and when you're supposed to be thinking about your next corner entry, you'll be spending your time trying to figure out why the back end stepped out violently about 0.1 seconds ago.
When you hop on a literbike and start to use it near its potential, all kinds of things happen. Things you never thought about! Are you prepared for a 150 mph wheelie that's caused by a slight rise in the racetrack that's insignificant at 120? Are you prepared to be able to ignite the rear tire at any angle or speed you want?
All I'm saying is, there are skills used on the track that "you don't know you don't know". A pre-crashed, already discounted, former racebike from a prior generation allows you to not worry about the hardware or the surprises. That way you can spend your time and money on the cerebral part of getting good. Believe me...... there's lots of mental homework, mental stress, and intense thought that goes into getting good.
Besides, it's cool to take your old hunk-o-junk and slay a few 'invaders'.
YMMV
Good points!You can also patch/repair oem bodywork. Yes, it's cheaper than OEM, but, for a race/track bike, you can sometimes piece together previously rashed OEM bodywork for the same/less than a new set of aftermarket bodywork. Plus, with OEM bodywork, you retain all of the stock mounting points. Sometimes it can be a pain to mount up aftermarket bodywork as it's usually not drilled. Sometimes there a dimples in aftermarket bodywork to show where holes could be drilled for mounting it, but, often those marks are off. Poorly mounted bodywork often gets destroyed in the lightest of crashes. The better and more solid its mounted, the better it crashes.What I've read is that the advantage of the fiberglass body work is that you can repair/patch it... lots cheaper than new tupperware.Race plastics are 1 of 2 things:What are race plastics?
Same skin just without cutouts for lights?
would that be the diff in some that are listed as race/track vs track road?
1) stock bodywork that has been rashed that most people wouldn't use on their street bike, so, they put it on their sacrificial race/track day bike
2) fiberglass/composite bodywork that looks like stock bodywork that comes unpainted, but, in most cases, there aren't provisions for lights.
Here's a BIG plus one! Remember, the first guy to crash in a fluid spill is the spiller, often followed by several of his 'closest friends'. Sandwiches should only be served at lunch.Probably the biggest thing I could say in favor of race body work is that the lowers have fliud containment built in (most that I know of anyway). If you should start dropping oil or coolant (even if it is just water) it can ruin your day quick when it hits you rear tire. Catch pans or containment body work is required by race org's, maybe some trackday operators, too.
My last time out there was as the team organizer and builder of the EXFH. The EX From Hell. We ran as Team EX Racelist back when small bikes didn't have a class of their own. Our efforts were written up by Sport Rider Magazine and the following year Zoran Vusanovic's (?) team won the newly created small bike class on an SV.What year(s) and with what team(s)? I was there in 2000 (working in the pits, not riding).I've run ...Willow Springs (24 hour events)...
The Pooveys are well known in NTex, but I wasn't racing in that area until sometime after Terry's days.Andre you probably have raced against someone I know,Terry Poovey.I have known his brother Teddy for over 30+ years.Probably the best wrench on the planet.My prayers are with you for your illness.I rode a lot of amatuer events for years but now the crashes have really caught up with me.I now take weeks to recover from any long distance ride because of my arthritis in my spine and neck.I'm 55.I look at the blessings I have and not the ability I no longer have.Your advice is so correct.First time I ever got on a open bike my brain was left at the starting line.I won but I never was so overwhelmed by how raw the power was.Maybe that is why I like Ducati and Buell so much.They are so forgiving and make you feel like a MotoGP star when you really stink at track days!
Hey Andre,You wouldn't happen to know Terry Gregorica would you? He had a team down that way a few years ago. "Blew by you" ring a bell? Anyways he's a buddy from High School days, owns the Honda dealership here in town.
:jester:
I had a GSXR1K for my second race bike doing CCS here in the Midwest. It was an '01, great fun and all, but a little too big of a motor for local tracks. It was perfect for Rd America, but the rest of the tracks are better suited to twins or I-4 600/750s. I now race an '01 GSXR 750. It has plenty of HP at the wheel, parts availability is great, and the handling difference is great too.GSXR, R-1 or a CBR 1000? advantage of one over the other. If you have a bike I didn't list, add it.
The Buell catches my eye as well, but I don't know about performance.
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