Trailer Build - hopefully in improvement to my current one

[Auburn]

Auburn, what is your attachment to the air shocks? I used springs from the rack and roll trailer on my build and I can pick up one side of it and drop it and it won't even bounce, at all. The hydraulic damping and correct spring selection ate the key. I paid about $120 for the pair if I remember correctly so they were the cheapest I could find too on addition to having the correct spring rate. The HD ones would probably work for you if you wanted to go that route.

I welded 5/8" bolt at the top and bottom top mount the shock to. I also put on a sway bar from a snowmobile. Part of the reason to go with the Progressive 416 series was to be able to rebuild it. I intend to do some very remote trips (i.e. Alaska - Prudoe Bay, Yukon - Invuk) and want to spares or rebuild kits that I can carry with me.

 

[Auburn]

Out of complete ignorance with respect to MC trailers, why do you use tires with a rounded profile as opposed to a standard tire you might find on a utility trailer? I would guess that the standard tires and wheels would be substantially cheaper.

I first looked into getting used motorcycle front wheels because I wanted to have at least a 16" diameter wheel and good tires. They were too expensive, and that is when I stumbled onto the Yakima wheels which came mounted, bearings, and hub covers for $175 each. The bustec were over $200 each.

 

[eflyguy]

Less rolling resistance as well..

 

[Northwoods Snowman]

Auburn, what is your attachment to the air shocks? I used springs from the rack and roll trailer on my build and I can pick up one side of it and drop it and it won't even bounce, at all. The hydraulic damping and correct spring selection ate the key. I paid about $120 for the pair if I remember correctly so they were the cheapest I could find too on addition to having the correct spring rate. The HD ones would probably work for you if you wanted to go that route.

I welded 5/8" bolt at the top and bottom top mount the shock to. I also put on a sway bar from a snowmobile. Part of the reason to go with the Progressive 416 series was to be able to rebuild it. I intend to do some very remote trips (i.e. Alaska - Prudoe Bay, Yukon - Invuk) and want to spares or rebuild kits that I can carry with me.

Fair point. I would recommend spares over parts to take on the trip; swap and keep riding. I don't know what kind of tools you are planning to take but something you might consider for future builds is designing for quick repairs, like using lynch pins and safety wire to prevent them from accidentally coming off the shafts in lieu of bolts and nuts.

 

[Niehart]

Needless to say, AuburnFJR already has a few miles pulling a trailer.

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/168298-alaska-2016/

 

[Auburn]

Needless to say, AuburnFJR already has a few miles pulling a trailer.
https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/168298-alaska-2016/

Was an awesome epic trip. Can't wait for the one we are planning for next year!

 

[Auburn]

Auburn, what is your attachment to the air shocks? I used springs from the rack and roll trailer on my build and I can pick up one side of it and drop it and it won't even bounce, at all. The hydraulic damping and correct spring selection ate the key. I paid about $120 for the pair if I remember correctly so they were the cheapest I could find too on addition to having the correct spring rate. The HD ones would probably work for you if you wanted to go that route.

I welded 5/8" bolt at the top and bottom top mount the shock to. I also put on a sway bar from a snowmobile. Part of the reason to go with the Progressive 416 series was to be able to rebuild it. I intend to do some very remote trips (i.e. Alaska - Prudoe Bay, Yukon - Invuk) and want to spares or rebuild kits that I can carry with me.

Fair point. I would recommend spares over parts to take on the trip; swap and keep riding. I don't know what kind of tools you are planning to take but something you might consider for future builds is designing for quick repairs, like using lynch pins and safety wire to prevent them from accidentally coming off the shafts in lieu of bolts and nuts.

Got the spares covered. Used to road race and have incorporated several of the features used to keep them in one piece. Tool and spares wise, I can do just about anything with what we carry with us, or at a local auto shop if hydraulics are needed. I will have a complete set of wheels mounted up with dual sport tires so we can put them on when we leave Fairbanks for Prudoe Bay, and when we go to Invuk, YT. And we will still probably carry a spare set of unmounted PR2s with us for what if. We will be prepared as much as we can since we are going to push the limits of travel into the remoteness for the FJR.

 

[BlacknWhite23]

1st off. Great thread. Great build. Pretty cool how you are blessed to have the knowledge and skill to do this. Before you said it I was going to recommend solar on the lid of the trailer for charging. I am actually looking to get a mini solar panel on my helmet to charge my Sena while riding. I think solar could only make this trailer even more cooler!

Good luck and great build!

 

[Auburn]

Major milestone reached today: got a license plate. Passed the state patrol inspection Monday, got the VIN assigned, and went to DOL today and have the license plate.

Total cost of the build was $1680 of that almost $600 was for tires and wheels (3 so I have a mounted spare to carry), and $400 for a pair of progressive air shocks. The rest was the metal, hardware, lights, and wiring to build.

I have a rack system to add, the spare battery, and a few other small touches that are not included in the build cost.

Now the longer shake downs can take place.

 

[moto]

WOW!! I spent about 1 1/2 weeks scratching my head trying to adjusting a hood latch on the 458. And you built, made adjustments, re built, wired and got the Government to OK your project --- Sir, you've got talent. Be safe.

 

[Auburn]

Major milestone reached today: got a license plate. Passed the state patrol inspection Monday, got the VIN assigned, and went to DOL today and have the license plate.
Total cost of the build was $1680 of that almost $600 was for tires and wheels (3 so I have a mounted spare to carry), and $400 for a pair of progressive air shocks. The rest was the metal, hardware, lights, and wiring to build.

I have a rack system to add, the spare battery, and a few other small touches that are not included in the build cost.

Now the longer shake downs can take place.

Update:

Finally got to do some testing.

The first was a ride up to Easton about 60 miles away to our motorcycle club property to camp for the night. Got most of the way there, and had a weld break that, upon further inspection I had ground it off too much making it look pretty. The broken weld allowed one wheel to camber into to wheel well and rub the body of the trailer. Called BeamerReamer and he cam and loaded the trailer into the back of his truck. Re-welded the offending break, inspected the rest of the trailer, not other issues found.

Last weekend, we loaded up again, headed to the same club property. Trailer towed very well, nice and straight. No issues what-so-ever. No I can start fine tuning things. I want to reduce the weight of the trailer itself. May do some reshaping of the front and start working on the aesthetics of the trailer. More to come as it progresses.

 

[wingshot]

Do you have pictures to share of the current look of the trailer prior to further modification?

 

[Auburn]

Current configuration:

 

[Auburn]

Now that I have proved my concept for the trailer is time to make improvements.

1. Upgraded the welder to a Lincoln MP210 - what a sweet machine.

2. Lighten up the trailer currently 280 lbs empty. Goal to shed at least 100 lbs.want it below 180 preferably down to 150 lbs empty.

3. Improve the aesthetics and aerodynamics

4. Move the area holding the ice chest to the front half of the area between the axles to help keep the right amount of tongue weight. The axle is right at the 70% point which is the ideal spot for the axle to be. The back side of the ice chest will be right above the axle.

5. Improve the placement of the sway bar

6. Improve the suspension alignment and spacing for the shocks.

the first trailer used sheet metal for the skins and lid which weighs about 1.1 lbs per SF. The total surface area is about 100 SF. I am going to use 3 mm Baltic birch plywood (3 plys) and weigh .44 lbs per SF. I will use 6 mm Baltic birch on the floor and lid which .76 lbs per SF. Between the two I should drop at least 50-60 lbs. I also changed the way I am doing the frame and will drop about 30 lbs in the frame too. I am pretty close to my goal of dropping 100 lbs.

Here is the suspension system all completed. I have to make a couple of supports for the sway bar and I am complete with a rolling chassis. I followed Northwoods Snowman's design a little more closely for the shock arrangement. It make servicing the shock easier and looks a lot cleaner. Cost wise, I will be in this version of the trailer about $120 for metal, $100 for plywood. I move the wheels, shocks, sway bar, latching assembly, lights and wiring to the new trailer.

The overall length of the cargo area will be about 6 inches shorter, but will be 2 inches taller.

 

[Auburn]

Rolling chassis:

 

[RossKean]

Holy crap! Just finished and it's time to tear it down and start over!!

I have to say that a weight reduction would be helpful - 280 lb empty is pretty hefty. What about a sloped top or some sort of wedge fairing on front to reduce wind resistance. It would probably handle better and require less gas to haul?

I am in awe of your fabrication skills. I know just about enough to understand that a certain amount of talent (and experience) are needed for the design and building of this! (Talent and experience that I sorely lack.) Are any sort of plastic or fibreglass panels available? Just thinking about long-term weather resistance.

 

[Northwoods Snowman]

You could possibly save more weight by lowering your longitudinal runners on the sides down and using them to cap the lateral supports. Right now you have a framework on top of a frame; try to combine them into one piece.

 

[Auburn]

You could possibly save more weight by lowering your longitudinal runners on the sides down and using them to cap the lateral supports. Right now you have a framework on top of a frame; try to combine them into one piece.

You got me re-thinking a few things to help lighten it up.

 

[Northwoods Snowman]

You could possibly save more weight by lowering your longitudinal runners on the sides down and using them to cap the lateral supports. Right now you have a framework on top of a frame; try to combine them into one piece.

You got me re-thinking a few things to help lighten it up.

Cool, will be neat to see what you come up with.

On a different note, how are the hubs/spindles designed on those Rack n roll wheels?

 

[Auburn]

You could possibly save more weight by lowering your longitudinal runners on the sides down and using them to cap the lateral supports. Right now you have a framework on top of a frame; try to combine them into one piece.

You got me re-thinking a few things to help lighten it up.

Cool, will be neat to see what you come up with.

On a different note, how are the hubs/spindles designed on those Rack n roll wheels?

They are like motorcycle wheels, inner and outer bearings. They come with 1/2 id for the axle to. I put new bearings to match the 5/8 axles on the bushtec trailer. I am using 5/8 grade 8 bolts for axles. I show a picture once I have it welded up. I am mocking the trailing arms up to get the shock, wheel and fender clearance geometry all worked out.

I am headed out of town for a week. So it will be a little while before I get them finished.