DennisJ
Well-known member
I think I need to do a lot more practicing of low speed turns. I'm not sure the FJR will turn like that Police bike in the competition though.
Dennis
Dennis
You're right, the FJR handles better. I just came from a heavy cruiser, that was amazing riding. Center of gravity is lower on the cruiser but that is a heavy steel bike with a torquey V-twin, but the FJR handles amazingly better. It ain't the arrow, it's the Indian.I think I need to do a lot more practicing of low speed turns. I'm not sure the FJR will turn like that Police bike in the competition though.
Dennis
I got the Ride Like a Pro video about 6 years ago. I consider it an essential part of riding any motorcycle for safety and finesse. It works on any bike (I have an 800lb Harley and the FJR) and makes low speed turns and u-turns a breeze and much safer. The technique reduces the total time it takes to perform a u-turn maneuver making you safer on the road.www.ridelikeapro.com
Great stuff on the dvd, however a bit corny at times, bit still really good stuff.
Something I have always wondered however...at least for me, my left hand U-turns are almost always better and tighter than my right handers. I don't know if others experience the same thing or not. If so, any theories on the physics of why this is?
It turns out that the genesis of the "bumble bee cannot fly" paradox appears to have been an inaccurate retelling of a famous aerodynamicist' lecture spread by the hack media of the day early in the 20th century.I love doing the drills from the DVD. Once you get into the rythm it almost becomes Zen like. I will say that the 12 foot gaps between cones come up pretty fast while taking my Goldwing through them. Riding the Wing in tight maneuvers is a mental thing. It's sort of like the theory about a bumble bee. A bumble bee really shouldn't be able to fly based on aerodynamic physics. The thing is, that the bumble bee doesn't know that....so it flys. You think "damn, a bike this big shouldn't be able to do this or that, but once you relax with it, trust your eyes and let the bike do what it can do, it's actually pretty agile, even in slow maneuvers. The only thing that has held my Wing back is me. Of course hopping on the FJR after the Wing almost feels like riding a mini bike.
So...nobody has any theories as to why left hand tight maneuvers are easier than right hand? O.K., it must be me. Yet another topic for my therapist. :blink:
not if you know how to rideFJR tight-turn/U-turn = RPMs up and feather the clutch for speed control. h34r:
AE owners are just screwed. :blink:
JMHO
Gunny +1 The eyes are mucho important.Doesn't matter what type of bike you are riding, from full dress touring to a pocket bike. As long as you(Most important thing) look where you want to go (and not at the front tire), leave the front brake alone and drag against the rear if necessary,and keep some power to the rear end, it will walk it's self through a u-turn.
It's all technique..
As others have said, it's the same for the AE as it is for every other bike: drag the rear brake to control your speed. There's no need to feather the clutch except when you're pulling away from a stop. Once underway, leave it fully engaged except perhaps when you shift gears. (Even then, it's optional.)FJR tight-turn/U-turn = RPMs up and feather the clutch for speed control. h34r:
AE owners are just screwed. :blink:
JMHO
Keep in mind that rigor mortis only lasts about 72 hours, so like it or not with a bit of patience you'll be giving up those keys.The window of time the keys will leave my hand are between time of death and time when rigor sets infour years and never done a tight u-turn???
hand over your keys and step away from the bike.
How I was taught:That's pretty much how I was taught -Doesn't matter what type of bike you are riding, from full dress touring to a pocket bike. As long as you(Most important thing) look where you want to go (and not at the front tire), leave the front brake alone and drag against the rear if necessary,and keep some power to the rear end, it will walk it's self through a u-turn.
It's all technique..
1. Keep a constant throttle say around 1500 RPM
2. Slip the clutch at a constant position.
3. Control your speed using the rear brake only.
4. Do all of the above in a straight line until you get the hang of varying the speed using the rear brake only.
5. Then (and only then) try your turns.
Don
It's only optional if you don't mind destroying your transmission. There was a recent thread here where somebody learned that very expensive lesson.There's no need to feather the clutch except when you're pulling away from a stop. Once underway, leave it fully engaged except perhaps when you shift gears. (Even then, it's optional.)
OK, I suppose I should have added a disclaimer, something about needing more than zero coordination. :yahoo:It's only optional if you don't mind destroying your transmission. There was a recent thread here where somebody learned that very expensive lesson.There's no need to feather the clutch except when you're pulling away from a stop. Once underway, leave it fully engaged except perhaps when you shift gears. (Even then, it's optional.)
Funny how some guys think the FJR is a "Heavy Beast". It's all relative I guess. I'm coming off from riding a nearly 800lb muscle cruiser over the past 2yrs with very wide handlebars and I was totally used to that bike and thought nothing of it. Now that I have a sub 600lb. FJR with narrow bars it feel so incredibly light & nimble. Slow speed U-Turns on my old M109R were very sketchy and I planted one foot down prob. 50% of the time. With the FJR it practically turns itself and both feet stay on the pegs and it's a piece of cake!!!Just the thought of it on this big, heavy beast made me avoid it at all costs right up until yesterday.....I have to say I was pleasantly suprised at how easy it was.
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