HaulinAshe
Well-known member
NAPA Heat Shield tubing as discussed on other post used as a jacket. I learned and would highly recommend to slide three(3) 1/2" rubber grommets onto the jacket before threading it through the bike or making up the ends. There are a couple areas where thin plastic, thin aluminum, or sharp steel edges are encountered. I used some pieces of innertube and tie-wraps to wrap the jacket where it passes by the engine mounts on the frame sides.
Wire jacket, #10 red(positive 12v), #10 black(negative 12v), #18 Blue(Headlight/Grip Warmer circuit), #18 Yellow(Auxiliary circuit), Electrician's snake for threading through the jacket. Remove as much curl as possible from the wires then lay it all out flat on the garage floor to thread the wires through. Everything fit very nicely inside the 1/2" jacket and it's pre-powdered for easy threading.
I chose to run the harness down the right side of the bike. I would have preferred to run my rear harness parallel to the stock/main harness, but things were just too cramped IMO. There are some contact/abrasion points that should be addressed. I wrapped some areas in rubber innertube secured with tie wraps, used rubber grommets in at other places.
Whacking off the ground leg of a good quality 4-wire trailer plug, leaves three connections that can be parallel connected to the black/ground wire leading directly to the battery. Even though I bought an Electrical Connections grounding block, I felt it was overkill and just too large for my application. The trimmed trailer plug is, IMO, a better and more practical solution, not to mention a lot cheaper.
The yellow wire goes "hot" when the switch is turned on and is parallel with the jack in the glove box, 3-amp capacity. That wire is currently unused and therefore coiled and stubbed for future expansion if desired. This also gives me the option of using it as a signal, although the blue tail light wire is readily available in the same area.
A look at the finished install.
Lower Left - Battery charger lead wired to a 2-pin plug and capped with, E-Gads!, a Harley Davidson cap. Exposed metal male portion is ground, so it doesn't matter if it touches the frame. But the HD plug trims things out nicely. BTW, I was told that HD Dealers throw these things away all the time, because they get an extra one with every battery charger hookup kit. This plug uses the normally-closed relay connection and goes live when the ignition is turned off. Also wired a matching connector to my air compressor that's carried under the seat.
Upper Left - Relay is tucked away under the center strap and is mounted using an aluminum pop-rivet to the fender. Learned something, relay mounting tab will not withstand the pressure of the pop rivet expansion and it split before the rivet popped. Luckily it is still flexible enough to stay put, even though the tab is split open. Next time I would drill a larger hole in the mounting tab and use a small flat washer to line the opening, then a larger flat washer to cap things off.
Upper Center - 30 amp fuse block supplied with the kit. Positive wire to the battery connects here. I added a 14-gauge fusible link to the battery post end as a failsafe in case of wire failure or catastrophic event.
Upper Right - As supplied, the Electrical Connections block has six(6) connections with a connector/tap in the middle. I opened it up and cut away one side with three connections. I cannot foresee ever needing more than three(3) circuits with the limited FJR available power. The trimmed block fits nicely on one of the fender "flats" and was mounted with black silicone adhesive.
Peeking under the straps for a better look:
Overhead view showing the air compressor:
One more look with the tire repair kit in place:
Wire jacket, #10 red(positive 12v), #10 black(negative 12v), #18 Blue(Headlight/Grip Warmer circuit), #18 Yellow(Auxiliary circuit), Electrician's snake for threading through the jacket. Remove as much curl as possible from the wires then lay it all out flat on the garage floor to thread the wires through. Everything fit very nicely inside the 1/2" jacket and it's pre-powdered for easy threading.
I chose to run the harness down the right side of the bike. I would have preferred to run my rear harness parallel to the stock/main harness, but things were just too cramped IMO. There are some contact/abrasion points that should be addressed. I wrapped some areas in rubber innertube secured with tie wraps, used rubber grommets in at other places.
Whacking off the ground leg of a good quality 4-wire trailer plug, leaves three connections that can be parallel connected to the black/ground wire leading directly to the battery. Even though I bought an Electrical Connections grounding block, I felt it was overkill and just too large for my application. The trimmed trailer plug is, IMO, a better and more practical solution, not to mention a lot cheaper.
The yellow wire goes "hot" when the switch is turned on and is parallel with the jack in the glove box, 3-amp capacity. That wire is currently unused and therefore coiled and stubbed for future expansion if desired. This also gives me the option of using it as a signal, although the blue tail light wire is readily available in the same area.
A look at the finished install.
Lower Left - Battery charger lead wired to a 2-pin plug and capped with, E-Gads!, a Harley Davidson cap. Exposed metal male portion is ground, so it doesn't matter if it touches the frame. But the HD plug trims things out nicely. BTW, I was told that HD Dealers throw these things away all the time, because they get an extra one with every battery charger hookup kit. This plug uses the normally-closed relay connection and goes live when the ignition is turned off. Also wired a matching connector to my air compressor that's carried under the seat.
Upper Left - Relay is tucked away under the center strap and is mounted using an aluminum pop-rivet to the fender. Learned something, relay mounting tab will not withstand the pressure of the pop rivet expansion and it split before the rivet popped. Luckily it is still flexible enough to stay put, even though the tab is split open. Next time I would drill a larger hole in the mounting tab and use a small flat washer to line the opening, then a larger flat washer to cap things off.
Upper Center - 30 amp fuse block supplied with the kit. Positive wire to the battery connects here. I added a 14-gauge fusible link to the battery post end as a failsafe in case of wire failure or catastrophic event.
Upper Right - As supplied, the Electrical Connections block has six(6) connections with a connector/tap in the middle. I opened it up and cut away one side with three connections. I cannot foresee ever needing more than three(3) circuits with the limited FJR available power. The trimmed block fits nicely on one of the fender "flats" and was mounted with black silicone adhesive.
Peeking under the straps for a better look:
Overhead view showing the air compressor:
One more look with the tire repair kit in place:
