Underseat power supply

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I ended up stripping about an inch of the outer sheathing at the brake end to get enough exposed wire for posi-tap connectors.
you know that Posi-Taps don't need any wire exposed at all. right? they have a small spike that pierces the insulation in a non-destructive way.

 
I ended up stripping about an inch of the outer sheathing at the brake end to get enough exposed wire for posi-tap connectors.
you know that Posi-Taps don't need any wire exposed at all. right? they have a small spike that pierces the insulation in a non-destructive way.
Yep! But you got to get to the individual insulated wire first, which I exposed by stripping back the outer sheathing or loom that enclosed the wire bundle.

 
I ended up stripping about an inch of the outer sheathing at the brake end to get enough exposed wire for posi-tap connectors.
you know that Posi-Taps don't need any wire exposed at all. right? they have a small spike that pierces the insulation in a non-destructive way.
Yep! But you got to get to the individual insulated wire first, which I exposed by stripping back the outer sheathing or loom that enclosed the wire bundle.
*dingding!* That's what I meant, just didn't describe it well enough. I should have room if I tap it farther back in the loom, rather than closer to the rear bulbs. Still waiting for all the bits and pieces of the Grand Plan to come in before getting started. Looks like I'm going to have to order the heat-resistant wire loom for running wires under the tank, as every auto parts store around here including Napa looked at me like I had an arm growing out of my head when I asked about it.

So... how hard is it to lift the tank?

 
I ended up stripping about an inch of the outer sheathing at the brake end to get enough exposed wire for posi-tap connectors.
you know that Posi-Taps don't need any wire exposed at all. right? they have a small spike that pierces the insulation in a non-destructive way.
Yep! But you got to get to the individual insulated wire first, which I exposed by stripping back the outer sheathing or loom that enclosed the wire bundle.
*dingding!* That's what I meant, just didn't describe it well enough. I should have room if I tap it farther back in the loom, rather than closer to the rear bulbs. Still waiting for all the bits and pieces of the Grand Plan to come in before getting started. Looks like I'm going to have to order the heat-resistant wire loom for running wires under the tank, as every auto parts store around here including Napa looked at me like I had an arm growing out of my head when I asked about it.

So... how hard is it to lift the tank?
Lifting the tank is easy, especially if you have a helper.

I didn't lift mine to run Starcom wires, though. Just fished them under the tank, but over the insulating barrier. You shouldn't need heat-resistant cables, since the insulation keeps them off the hot engine.

 
I ended up stripping about an inch of the outer sheathing at the brake end to get enough exposed wire for posi-tap connectors.
you know that Posi-Taps don't need any wire exposed at all. right? they have a small spike that pierces the insulation in a non-destructive way.
Yep! But you got to get to the individual insulated wire first, which I exposed by stripping back the outer sheathing or loom that enclosed the wire bundle.
gotcha. splitting the sheath is a WORD deal but i understand what you mean. :rofl:

btw: you know that, for a low-load small-ga wire that taps into a tail light, there's no need to split your sheath or tap your wires. i did it like this:

https://www.bikes-n-spikes.org/mods/hyper/hyper.html

just release the male pin from the connector and feed your wire to it from the back side (soldered) before sliding the pin back into the connector.

 
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