Used bike-First things to do/check?

[Burns1]

So the son of a friend was just given - yes given - a 2005 FJR! It's definately not a pristine example but it runs and drives. My question is.... what should we do/check first on this thing. Like I said, it's not n terrible shape. It's got something like 79K on the odometer. It does appear to have a small leak at the water pump area which we will look into. I'm hoping it's a simple fix. I'm going to go help him change the oil and the drive oil. I don't have the tools for a TB sync, so that may have to wait. And I'm not real keen on trying a valve check either. I'll suggest he take it to the local shop for that stuff. But I'm mainly looking for stuff I can help with. Like oil change and spline lube. Any recommendations will be helpful

Oh and if you are on here and recent "sold" your FJR to a 20-something named Paul in the Denver area, you Sir are a very very generous soul. His dad was laughing and said I was more excited than his son. Hell yes I am! What a score for this youngster!

Burns1

 

[MrZappo]

Change brake and clutch fluid. Swingarm lubrication. Shock? Fork fluid? Air filter. Lube throttle cable. Tires. Change coolant. Clean radiator. Brake pads.

 

[gray ray]

Wash the bike, top to bottom, end to end, in detail. While you are doing it look for loose nuts, bolts. Frayed wires, loose elect. connections. Anything cracked or broken. Anything

missing. Any holes that are supposed to have bolts in them. Check the battery, check all the lights, and gauges, cables, fluid levels. If the bike has anti-lock brakes, take it out

and test them.

 

[DeSudet]

Take the VIN to your local Yamaha dealer and confirm any and all recalls have been done.

 

[lele]

Change every fluid on the bike, check valve clearance, check if CCT is the newer version, change air filter

check if the bottom of the tank got some rust...mine was rusted (previus owner never drain it, a bubble of water formed from condensation start to rust it...)

 

[blassoff]

All of the above, then take it out and exercise the bike. If something is amiss, you'll feel it.

I'm guessing the easiest way to check the cct is to look and see if the bolts are cut to make them work as screws, otherwise it's coming out to look for a green or blue dot. I can think of less fun things (a hernia operation comes to mind, or a catheter in your who-ha).

Enjoy the bike, sounds like you made a fabulous find!

PS: I'm hoping this 20-something kid in Denver is an experienced rider. Somebody just gave him a rocketship.

 

[hppants]

In addition to above, lubricate with waterproof grease all pivot points clutch and brake handles, rear brake assy, shift assy, and swing arm assy. Lubricate the worm gear for the windshield motor. Pull the auto-retract jumper from the windshield motor wiring harness and store it somewhere until you sell the bike.

 

[BigOgre]

Enjoy the bike, sounds like you made a fabulous find!
PS: I'm hoping this 20-something kid in Denver is an experienced rider. Somebody just gave him a rocketship.

^ +1. If needed, give the rider some of the attention you're giving the machine.

 

[hppants]

Alright Burns - let me put together a laundry list for ya:

1. Flush brake fluid (front and back) and clutch fluid. WARNING - DOT 4 brake fluid EATS anything painted. Take great care to protect everything before commencing. If you have a mighty vac vaccum pump, the job goes MUCH easier.

2. Lubricate all pivot points.

3. Replace the fork oil. Inspect the seals and if leaking, replace with new bushings.

4. Pull the air filter out and inspect. Clean up the air box and blow out the filter (reversal of the air flow direction) if it's not too dirty.

5. Replace the rear end oil. TORQUE the drain bolt and fill bolt to 20 ft. pounds. Do NOT skip this step - trust me, I know what I am writing about.

6. With the front wheel off, remove the brake pads and inspect. Replace if necessary. Clean up the brake caliper and lubricate the caliper pad pins to allow them to freely move. Put a film of grease on the front axle.

7. Remover the rear wheel and lube the wheel and pumpkin spline assy. Pull the pumpkin and lubricate the drive shaft splines (motor side only).

8. Valve check - CCT if yours doesn't have a green or blue dot on it.

9. Spark plugs while the tank is off.

10. Replace coolant. Use a garden hose (not an AIR hose) and flush the outside of the radiator generously - get all of the bugs and crap out of the radiator.

11. Throttle body sync.

12. Throttle cable adjustment.

13. Check all lights, switches, horn, etc.

14. Tires, of course. If they are at the wear bar indicators, are cupped, and/or are more than 4 years old regardless of condition, pitch 'em.

15. Run the bike with a multi-meter on the battery and verify at least 12.5 volts not running, and 13.5 - 14.0 volts at 2500 rpm. Check the battery connections and clean them as necessary.

16. Go over the entire bike with a torque wrench and make sure everything is tight. Over the course of doing 1-15 above, you will be torqueing down a bunch of things anyway.

I think then - put about 8 ounces of seafoam with a full tank of fresh gas and go on a nice long ride.

 

[roger dodger]

I like this list for a Winter layover to-do list.

So glad it's Spring now ... so I GOTTA RIDE!!!

 

[Burns1]

This is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you to everyone that has taken the time to reply! I'll be handing him a list of things to do on his new to him FJR. And yes, I am a bit concerned about his skill level. He's only been riding for a year or so. And not a lot of miles. This is not really the bike I would have chosen for him. But he's not my kid. I will voice my concern to him and his folks. And then step back from there.

Burns1

 

[Fred W]

Yeah, unfortunately the most important critical "checks" for an '05 FJR with previously unknown service history are the ones that you can't (or don't want to) help him with. Specifically, checking (and adjusting) the valve clearances and replacing the CCT if no paint dot on it.

All of the other stuff will be good to make the bike ready for the long haul. If the valves need attention it could be a short trip.