Used FJR purchase - Service advice requested

[Ozone51]

Just purchased a 2010 FJR1300 abs with no service history

28,000 miles. Purchased from a bike dealer that gets their inventory from buy bids and auctions. Only service they performed was an oil change. Overall appearance is very good.

Through some research, I've identified critical service items that should be considered before I ever go riding. Before having this done I'd appreciate any comments on what I have listed, plus anything I may have overlooked.

Thanks!

Coolant Flush and replace

Brake Line Inspect and Bleed Brakes

Clutch Fluids replaced (Is that covered by an Oil change?)

Rear drive fluid change

Lube rear suspension Bottom Linkage (I read this is critical)

Inspect / Repack Steering heads

Check valve clearances

Brake pad inspection

 

[Canadian FJR]

https://www.fjrtech.net/getdbitem.cfm?item=36

 

[RossKean]

With only 28,000 miles on a '10, nothing is likely to blow up if you don't attend to everything immediately. Still, a "get acquainted" tech session is a good way to get to know the bike. Change the oil and check the brake pads before doing anything.

Valve clearance check and coolant change should be done at the same time since coolant needs to be drained anyway. Change sparkplugs at the same time as well. No issue if you decide to wait a few thousand miles for that. Most FJRs don't need adjustment that early but it is best to verify!

If the bike hasn't been ridden in crappy conditions, the rear suspension stuff is probably not terrible yet. Again, read up on it and I would try to get it done in the next 5-10,000 miles or so.

Hydraulic fluids are easy so get them done when you do the oil and final drive fluid. The clutch (and brake hydraulics) use DOT4 hydraulic fluid. Nothing to do with engine oil.)

Check air filter.

If you are doing the steering head, make sure you have the appropriate tool so you can set the torque correctly.

Lube side stand

Lube center stand

Lube rear brake pivot!!

Lube shifter linkages!!

Edit to add: Pivot for brake lever on right bar and clutch lever on left bar. When you do the clutch, make sure you clean and grease the brass bushing that engages the clutch.

 

[Pterodactyl]

I would add disassemble the brake calipers, clean them and make sure all the pistons are moving freely. Those things may have been sitting for a long while with corrosive stuff in them.

 

[CollingsBob]

These will make your life easier..

https://www.speedbleeder.com

 

[user 90243]

First of all congratulations on your 2010! I bought mine from Freedom Powersports of Lewisville, TX, five years ago. $9,000. 10000 miles. The only thing I would add to the good advice above is to replace the battery immediately. My battery was 4 years old, approaching the time when I begin to suspect failure. I rode to my shop here in Colorado, and the battery test showed that it was very near failure. You didn't mention anything about tires. Though expensive, this will be a vital Improvement. I get mine from RevZilla. If there is a better tire than the Michelin 5, tell me quick! I run 40 PSI front, 42 PSI rear. Also, the cheapest OEM parts that I found in the country I get from Georgia Watersports, whose website is partspak.com. congratulations again on owning a fabulous motorcycle. By the way, I had my valves checked at 20,000 miles and they were all in spec. Synced the throttle bodies last weekend, and they were nearly dead on.

 

[Ozone51]

First of all congratulations on your 2010! I bought mine from Freedom Powersports of Lewisville, TX, five years ago. $9,000. 10000 miles. The only thing I would add to the good advice above is to replace the battery immediately. My battery was 4 years old, approaching the time when I begin to suspect failure. I rode to my shop here in Colorado, and the battery test showed that it was very near failure. You didn't mention anything about tires. Though expensive, this will be a vital Improvement. I get mine from RevZilla. If there is a better tire than the Michelin 5, tell me quick! I run 40 PSI front, 42 PSI rear. Also, the cheapest OEM parts that I found in the country I get from Georgia Watersports, whose website is partspak.com. congratulations again on owning a fabulous motorcycle. By the way, I had my valves checked at 20,000 miles and they were all in spec. Synced the throttle bodies last weekend, and they were nearly dead on.

Thanks Super13. The battery was dead when I went for a demo ride, so they installed a new one. I bought "as-is" $5,500 knowing a rear tire was needed. I hate changing tires and wanted a high mileage offering. After alot of research it came down to the Road 5 and the Pirelli Angel GT. Both appeared in the top two for extended mileage without sacrificing sport handling. I bought the Pirelli. If that doesn't seem to give me the distance then I'll try the Road 5. Thanks for the OEM part link. I'll check it out.

I would add disassemble the brake calipers, clean them and make sure all the pistons are moving freely. Those things may have been sitting for a long while with corrosive stuff in them.

Thanks, I'll add that to the list

https://www.fjrtech.net/getdbitem.cfm?item=36

Thanks Canadian FJR. I forgot about the spline lube

With only 28,000 miles on a '10, nothing is likely to blow up if you don't attend to everything immediately. Still, a "get acquainted" tech session is a good way to get to know the bike. Change the oil and check the brake pads before doing anything.
Valve clearance check and coolant change should be done at the same time since coolant needs to be drained anyway. Change sparkplugs at the same time as well. No issue if you decide to wait a few thousand miles for that. Most FJRs don't need adjustment that early but it is best to verify!

If the bike hasn't been ridden in crappy conditions, the rear suspension stuff is probably not terrible yet. Again, read up on it and I would try to get it done in the next 5-10,000 miles or so.

Hydraulic fluids are easy so get them done when you do the oil and final drive fluid. The clutch (and brake hydraulics) use DOT4 hydraulic fluid. Nothing to do with engine oil.)

Check air filter.

If you are doing the steering head, make sure you have the appropriate tool so you can set the torque correctly.

Lube side stand

Lube center stand

Lube rear brake pivot!!

Lube shifter linkages!!

Edit to add: Pivot for brake lever on right bar and clutch lever on left bar. When you do the clutch, make sure you clean and grease the brass bushing that engages the clutch.

Thanks for the advice RossKean

 

[Ozone51]

First of all congratulations on your 2010! I bought mine from Freedom Powersports of Lewisville, TX, five years ago. $9,000. 10000 miles. The only thing I would add to the good advice above is to replace the battery immediately. My battery was 4 years old, approaching the time when I begin to suspect failure. I rode to my shop here in Colorado, and the battery test showed that it was very near failure. You didn't mention anything about tires. Though expensive, this will be a vital Improvement. I get mine from RevZilla. If there is a better tire than the Michelin 5, tell me quick! I run 40 PSI front, 42 PSI rear. Also, the cheapest OEM parts that I found in the country I get from Georgia Watersports, whose website is partspak.com. congratulations again on owning a fabulous motorcycle. By the way, I had my valves checked at 20,000 miles and they were all in spec. Synced the throttle bodies last weekend, and they were nearly dead on.

Pirelli Angel GT's come in two models. The FJR requires the model designated "A-Spec" with a stronger sidewall

Pirelli "A-Spec" Part #'s:

Front: 2497200 Approx $150

Rear: 2321200 Approx $198

 

[dcarver]

My bet is your 1984 Honda Trail 110 tires last a LOT longer than your other two bikes....

 

[bigjohnsd]

Ride that MFer!

 

[jammess]

Congrats on your purchase of what imo is a great motorcycle. My 2010 FJR is my first FJR and in 45 years on street bikes I thinks it's my favorite.

My FJR just turned over 10K miles and I would recommend you consider changing fork oil and while you're at it flush the forks with kerosene then hang upside down and let drip overnight before filling. I used Yamalube fork oil. A bit spendy but at least you know it's the right product.

I would also recommend you clean and lubricate the rear suspension components. A bit of a pain the first time but important to do.

If you ever experience a front fork wobble think tires before tapered steering head bearings. (Thanks Fred

)

 

[Ozone51]

Congrats on your purchase of what imo is a great motorcycle. My 2010 FJR is my first FJR and in 45 years on street bikes I thinks it's my favorite.
My FJR just turned over 10K miles and I would recommend you consider changing fork oil and while you're at it flush the forks with kerosene then hang upside down and let drip overnight before filling. I used Yamalube fork oil. A bit spendy but at least you know it's the right product.

I would also recommend you clean and lubricate the rear suspension components. A bit of a pain the first time but important to do.

If you ever experience a front fork wobble think tires before tapered steering head bearings. (Thanks Fred

)

Thanks, completely overlooked the fork oil change. I'll add that.

 

[philter]

I don't know if there are any recalls for the 10. I bought an 07 and there were recalls,

so I called Yamaha USA and gave them my VIN and found out what recalls were done, what

the mileage was when done, and where the work was done. I couldn't hurt to call them and

see if they have any info.

Yamaha USA 800-962-7926

 

[jammess]

I don't know if there are any recalls for the 10. I bought an 07 and there were recalls,so I called Yamaha USA and gave them my VIN and found out what recalls were done, what

the mileage was when done, and where the work was done. I couldn't hurt to call them and

see if they have any info.

Yamaha USA 800-962-7926

No recalls on the 2010. Can't remember where I heard this but I think 2010 was, at the time, the only year with no recalls.

 

[Panman]

Those caliper seals are expensive, only clean them with the DOT 4 fluid. I did my 07 at 55,000 on the first pad change about due again at 110,000.

 

[Steel_Gin]

I would definitely change all the fluids right off the bat and inspect the brake pads. The valve check, I've listened to many conversations that people have them checked at 50k, a few at 75k, then 100k, 50 & 100 are the most common times. I don't recall anyone having to make adjustments before 100k. If it's going to eat at you that you didn't check them, then check them so it's out of your mind....I know that feeling. If you don't get to checking them, the risk you are running I think is very minimal at best.

Congrats on the new to you ride and welcome to the group!!

 

[Ozone51]

I don't know if there are any recalls for the 10. I bought an 07 and there were recalls,so I called Yamaha USA and gave them my VIN and found out what recalls were done, what

the mileage was when done, and where the work was done. I couldn't hurt to call them and

see if they have any info.

Yamaha USA 800-962-7926

Thanks! I'll give them a call

 

[philter]

I would definitely change all the fluids right off the bat and inspect the brake pads. The valve check, I've listened to many conversations that people have them checked at 50k, a few at 75k, then 100k, 50 & 100 are the most common times. I don't recall anyone having to make adjustments before 100k. If it's going to eat at you that you didn't check them, then check them so it's out of your mind....I know that feeling. If you don't get to checking them, the risk you are running I think is very minimal at best.
Congrats on the new to you ride and welcome to the group!!

There have been some who had to "adjust" the valves at 50,000 {like I did on my 07} and even some at the 24,000 mile mark, but not many. LOL

 

[hppants]

All sage advice, here. Trust me, many on this forum know everything.... and I mean EVERYTHING about the FJR1300. They can take it completely apart, down to the last bolt, and fix anything that could possibly go wrong.

But those guys and most of us will tell ya that, you may never (ever) have to worry about that. In fact, I dare say that your biggest concern for your FJR1300 is NOT riding it enough. They are as bullet proof as they come in the sport touring segment. There is a reason why the FJR is always listed in the top 10 of the Iron Butt Association rally. You ain't gonna ride 1000 miles a day for 15 days straight unless your **** is running and ready for abuse. Truth, man.

On the other hand, don't turn a blind eye. Flush your brakes and clutch thoroughly and lubricate all of the pivot points, and the drive shaft splines. At the next oil change, check your valves, flush your coolant, put in new spark plugs, and if you have a manometer, check the sync on your Throttle bodies. Wouldn't hurt to flush the fork oil out, but don't over-sweat it.

Then ride it, man. Ride it often and for as long as your arse can stand. Ride it as hard as you like, or if you prefer, throw her in 5th gear and just cruise. But ride it.

And bring your camera with ya when you do. Share your (s)miles with us....