Vacuum check valve(s) for Audiovox install

[Roy Epperson]

So I've read all the posts on the Audiovox installs and did not find a recommended part number(s) other than "get a quality one".

Any recommendations where to find one and recommended part numbers? The couple I found going to 3 different stores this afternoon where on the "you oughta replace that with a better one" list......

Roy

 

[rok312]

These are the ones I'm going with.

Click Here

Click Here Too

 

[UselessPickles]

Click Here Too

Those are the ones I used; 3/16" x x1.72"L Hose Polypropylene Mini Check Valve from US Plastics. I think that's what Smitty recommends.

I also used these 3/16" Black Nylon Y connectors from US Plastics.

 

[Patriot]

I found them at Autozone and Pep Boys

DON'T get the 2 into 1 check valves to save parts...they work in reverse what you/we want <don't ask how I know>

Cheers,

Mike in Nawlins'

 

[Millsaps2]

UselessPickles-Can you supply the source and part for the air induction plugs in your picture?

 

[UselessPickles]

UselessPickles-Can you supply the source and part for the air induction plugs in your picture?

I don't recommend using them. They can split: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=114689

I'm still working on a solution myself. I think what I have now might not be perfect because I still seem to be getting a bit of deceleration popping. That could indicate that fresh air may still be getting into my air injection ports.

 

[Roy Epperson]

Click Here Too

Those are the ones I used; 3/16" x x1.72"L Hose Polypropylene Mini Check Valve from US Plastics. I think that's what Smitty recommends.

I also used these 3/16" Black Nylon Y connectors from US Plastics.

Thanks everyone for the recommendation. Just ordered a "bunch" for my FJR and wife's VStar1300.

UselessPickles - Where did you put your vacuum reservoir and how did you route the vacuum line to it.

Roy

 

[FJRed]

Here's a pic of the vac canister I made out of 1-1/2" PVC pipe and two threaded brass fittings. If you take out the tool tray, you'll find a perfect spot to put it right in front of the rear fender.

Ed.

 

[UselessPickles]

UselessPickles - Where did you put your vacuum reservoir and how did you route the vacuum line to it.

I don't have one yet. Maybe I'll add one this weekend. I've noticed that even though it seems to set and maintain speed just fine on the flat roads around here, the accelerate button seems to do nothing.

Here's a pic of the vac canister I made out of 1-1/2" PVC pipe and two threaded brass fittings. If you take out the tool tray, you'll find a perfect spot to put it right in front of the rear fender.

Ed.

That looks like where I'll put mine . Why do you have 2 hoses connected? You don't need the canister to be "in the flow" of the air between the servo and the vacuum source on the engine to work. If the canister is connected into the servo's vacuum line at any point, in any way (as long as it is on the servo's side of the check valve), then it will work.

 

[Roy Epperson]

Ed,

Looks like a "wide open" area. I took a quick look a couple of weeks ago while I was doing some wiring in the tail. It was not oblivious how to give the tool tray out. Where to I look for the attachment points?

Roy

Here's a pic of the vac canister I made out of 1-1/2" PVC pipe and two threaded brass fittings. If you take out the tool tray, you'll find a perfect spot to put it right in front of the rear fender.Ed.

 

[Roy Epperson]

I don't have one yet. Maybe I'll add one this weekend. I've noticed that even though it seems to set and maintain speed just fine on the flat roads around here, the accelerate button seems to do nothing.

Thanks for the feedback. I can to from sea level to 10,000' on a day's ride, so reservoir here I come.

 

[Roy Epperson]

I ordered these these check values and these Y's for my FJR and the install I'm trying on my wife's Vstar 1300

Thanks for all the feedback! :clapping:

 

[iCruze]

UselessPickles - Where did you put your vacuum reservoir and how did you route the vacuum line to it.

I don't have one yet. Maybe I'll add one this weekend. I've noticed that even though it seems to set and maintain speed just fine on the flat roads around here, the accelerate button seems to do nothing.

Here's a pic of the vac canister I made out of 1-1/2" PVC pipe and two threaded brass fittings. If you take out the tool tray, you'll find a perfect spot to put it right in front of the rear fender.

Ed.

That looks like where I'll put mine . Why do you have 2 hoses connected? You don't need the canister to be "in the flow" of the air between the servo and the vacuum source on the engine to work. If the canister is connected into the servo's vacuum line at any point, in any way (as long as it is on the servo's side of the check valve), then it will work.

I was wondering how your AVCC was working w/o the canister I just did mine w/o the canister. I have just didnt want to take up the space. If it holds speed on long straight boring roads than I will be happy :clapping:

 

[ahchiu]

NAPA check valve part #2-1015 there are $10.00

 

[RadioHowie]

Why do you have 2 hoses connected? You don't need the canister to be "in the flow" of the air between the servo and the vacuum source on the engine to work.

UP,

There are two ways to plumb a canister in the AVCC "flow"...."parallel" to the vacuum line, using a "T", or "serial", in line with the the AVCC vacuum line, 1 hose to the AVCC, the other to the intake manifold.

Either method works. All you want to do is add a vacuum reservoir "in the system". Doesn't matter how it's plumbed in, as long as it's there.

 

[UselessPickles]

Why do you have 2 hoses connected? You don't need the canister to be "in the flow" of the air between the servo and the vacuum source on the engine to work.

UP,

There are two ways to plumb a canister in the AVCC "flow"...."parallel" to the vacuum line, using a "T", or "serial", in line with the the AVCC vacuum line, 1 hose to the AVCC, the other to the intake manifold.

Either method works. All you want to do is add a vacuum reservoir "in the system". Doesn't matter how it's plumbed in, as long as it's there.

... so the determining factor would be physical location. Just pick the configuration that is most convenient to setup and reduces the amount of hose you run around the bike.

 

[Constant Mesh]

A one hose canister should cost less because only one threaded barbed fitting is needed. Those brass fittings are almost $2.50 each.

My check valve has three ports. The high pressure side has two paralleled ports -- one to the servo and one to the canister. The one low pressure port goes to the engine.

 

[RadioHowie]

Why do you have 2 hoses connected? You don't need the canister to be "in the flow" of the air between the servo and the vacuum source on the engine to work.

UP,

There are two ways to plumb a canister in the AVCC "flow"...."parallel" to the vacuum line, using a "T", or "serial", in line with the the AVCC vacuum line, 1 hose to the AVCC, the other to the intake manifold.

Either method works. All you want to do is add a vacuum reservoir "in the system". Doesn't matter how it's plumbed in, as long as it's there.

... so the determining factor would be physical location. Just pick the configuration that is most convenient to setup and reduces the amount of hose you run around the bike.

+1

 

[FJRed]

Ed,Looks like a "wide open" area. I took a quick look a couple of weeks ago while I was doing some wiring in the tail. It was not oblivious how to give the tool tray out. Where to I look for the attachment points?

Roy

The tool tray comes out very easily. There are (2) 10mm bolts in the front, (2) large phillips screws in the back behind the seat latch bracket, and (1) large phillips screw under the stock tool bag. You also have to disconnect the big wiring plug from the ECU as the ECU is attached to the bottom of the tool tray and will come out with the tray.

Here's a pic of how I mounted my servo in the tool tray (with the red arrows indicating the fasteners that you have to remove to get it out). I used a heat-gun to soften the plastic on the bottom of the tool tray and used a soup can to create a "bulge" in the soft plastic so the servo unit would fit under the seat support bracket. I also made a little metal tab to attach the rubber strap over the servo to hold it in place. (probably overkill, as the servo wouldn't have anywhere to go anyway)

Ed.