Valve Adj. Survey

[Biquer]

I did help another member here who had a 2007 with 75k miles. He bought the bike with the valves just done and both cams were off by a tooth. The bike ran like crap. Took us a while to figure out the issue, so be careful when it goes back together.

A long time ago, before I started doing my own, my camchain tensioner was changed and my valve clearances were checked on my '08 by a workshop in England, the bike didn't run right, after reading up on this forum I suspected the camchain had jumped a tooth. I took it to the Yamaha dealership in Belfast, their chief technician 'checked' the valve timing and said it was good. I later checked it myself, it was indeed 1 tooth out. I fixed it and have avoided dealerships ever since.

 

[torch]

That is contrary to historical results. Most don’t require adjustment to 3rd or 4rth check. Always willing to hear contrary opinions, but that is what the collective reported.

I'm not so sure. Maybe later generations, but the early bikes usually needed one or two shims changed for the first few checks. I base that on feedback -- I think the valve adjust write up was second only to the "Barbarian Jumper" one in popularity for the early generations.

In my own experience, I needed to change 2 shims at the first check, one or two at the second. On the third, all were technically in spec, but several were right at the cusp, bang on minimum clearance, so I changed them. Noisy valves are happy valves, better a hair loose than too tight. The next few checks required no changes but at the 8th check found one slightly tight.

 

[Prosolar]

Mine was similar, bought used '05 with 40k miles, checked at 45k, two tight one loose.

 

[art miller]

Going to have my 3rd valve clearance check done this coming Wednesday. No adjustments needed so far. With some luck it will pass this time as well. The bike 2014ES has 56K miles. I'm curious to know it you think valve adjustments have relationship to riding habits? I realize this may be affected by things such as infrequent use, slow low rpm riding and lack of fuel additives to clean out carbon build up. I am not a engine lugger and I use ring free and Sea Foam regularly. I do not rev engine above 3,500 rpm going through the gears. I have never run the engine up to red-line. Do you think this type riding has any affect on valve clearances?? Thanks.

Today the dealer completed my valve check and reported no adjustments needed. Very happy to get this news. This may be the last check before I check out riding.

 

[SwollenRaccoon]

I would assume that higher revolutions per minute equal more actuations of the valves per mile driven. I guess that would mean more wear.
I am however incredulous regarding your practice of never revving your FJR over 3,500 rpm. You must get 75 mpg and your tires have to last 30,000 miles! At least your driver's license isn't in peril.

 

[MotoMike]

Bought my '07 with 49K Kms. No service records. Checked the valves at 54K Kms. All within spec. Will check again at 100,000 Kms.

 

[FJRJayke]

I had one intake .001 under spec and the other intakes close so I changed all the shims to the loose side of spec. One exhaust was close to spec and I changed it. The other exhaust were mid spec and left alone. I checked them at 30K and my bike regularly sees high rpm. It was a challenge to do the valves myself, I'm not planning to do it again unless the valves get quiet.

 

[RossKean]

I had one intake .001 under spec and the other intakes close so I changed all the shims to the loose side of spec. One exhaust was close to spec and I changed it. The other exhaust were mid spec and left alone. I checked them at 30K and my bike regularly sees high rpm. It was a challenge to do the valves myself, I'm not planning to do it again unless the valves get quiet.

You can't rely upon valve noise to decide whether they should be adjusted. You only have to have one out of sixteen too tight for a potential problem. A burnt valve would ruin your whole day. A valve check isn't an awful job if no adjustments are needed - I would rather do that at a reasonable interval just for the peace of mind.
On the other hand, there is some safety factor built into the minimum clearance specification and if you set them all on the loose side of the range, I would expect you will be OK for at least 50,000 miles. (Don't quote me on that!)

 

[art miller]

I would assume that higher revolutions per minute equal more actuations of the valves per mile driven. I guess that would mean more wear.
I am however incredulous regarding your practice of never revving your FJR over 3,500 rpm. You must get 75 mpg and your tires have to last 30,000 miles! At least your driver's license isn't in peril.

Love your sense of humor!!! Actually I have rev'd the engine above 3,500 rpm many times. I just tend to not rev above that going up the gears. I'm old but not slow. When the need for speed ie; passing a string of vehicles 100mph is not unusual. Interesting you mentioned MPG. Just after buying the bike new I had the final drive re-worked by an outfit in Mannheim, PA. They changed out the internals with Star Venture parts. That added approximately 4mph to the RPM scale. The overall I have been averaging 48mpg since the bike was new.

 

[sterjll]

Bought an ‘05 with 87k miles, was real buzzy at 4 grand. Checked clearances at 91k miles and found 4 valves out of spec, 1 intake and 3 exhaust. No more buzz.

 

[RossKean]

Bought an ‘05 with 87k miles, was real buzzy at 4 grand. Checked clearances at 91k miles and found 4 valves out of spec, 1 intake and 3 exhaust. No more buzz.

Surprised to see a big difference unless they were way off. I have never felt a difference after a check. A throttle body sync seems improve vibration a bit for me.