TILAM came over a couple weekends ago and I checked his TBS. I raised his idle from 950 to 1000 and then checked the TBS. One cylinder was out by almost 2 cm mercury. Not much. After that we went for a ride but he didn't notice any difference.
Dremel slots for a flat blade screwdriver in the mounting bolts & cap bolt, makes the CCT replacement lots easier. Long tweezers are handy too cause the cap bolt (and probly mounting bolts) won't fit in the frame slot and have to be held from above. A little duct tape to 'pre-pinch' the tweezers on the bolt is handy.
I highly doubt that anyone really needs to replace their timing chain over the entire life of the engine. The timing chain lives an easy life, sealed away inside the engine, very low load on it and constantlty bathed in oil. The guides would wear out long before the chain does. People sometimes do replace the chain, just because they are in there, but I doubt it has ever been actually needed.
FWIW, I didn't have much of a problem getting the bolts to start and tightened without the ground in slots (this was from before that tip was made). The key, for me, was using a pair of long nosed hemostats to position and hold the bolts. Like these 12" ones on Amazon.
Are they flexible enough to grab a bolt and still lock? Looks like a real handy tool!I highly doubt that anyone really needs to replace their timing chain over the entire life of the engine. The timing chain lives an easy life, sealed away inside the engine, very low load on it and constantlty bathed in oil. The guides would wear out long before the chain does. People sometimes do replace the chain, just because they are in there, but I doubt it has ever been actually needed.
FWIW, I didn't have much of a problem getting the bolts to start and tightened without the ground in slots (this was from before that tip was made). The key, for me, was using a pair of long nosed hemostats to position and hold the bolts. Like these 12" ones on Amazon.
These are an indispensable tool in many occasions. If you don't have any you should try to find some.
IF you must replace the timing chain due to wear? -- then you must replace the sprockets, too.
^^^^^ This....
It's difficult to have the right shims beforehand as you don't know what size is required prior to measureing.
boy--this detail is great...but it'd be great to have for GenIII. I'm trying to find these parts so I can do this on my '14 ES next week, and, man! the parts places make it so hard to find stuff. If I knew the part number...it just mystifies me why I can't search for "2014 FJR 1300ES coolant o-ring" and have a narrowed choice.
On my 03, the first time I checked the throttle synch, one of the cover nipples was not there. It was not idling badly, I think there is not enough of a leak even without the rubber cover to make an FJR idle high.
Look at the parts fiche at any of the on-line vendors. You will find the coolant pipe (Described as "Pipe 1") in the Water Pump fiche.https://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/2013/FJR1300A - FJR13ADG/WATER PUMP/parts.html
Awesome--fortunately, I did buy the right ones
It's part # 93210-18417-00 for the o-rings. Gracias!
I agree with everything you have said, Fred. Just a note on the valve cover gasket - at the last check (175,000 miles or so), I noticed that the spark plug hole rubber donuts are starting to harden up a bit. They still seal OK but I will have a much closer look at the next check. I suspect that even if you somehow managed to damage the gasket (most likely by pinching it when re-installing the cover) you could probably fix it up (at least temporarily) with O2 sensor-safe RTV silicone. No real pressure in there.
