Valve Adjustment

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Another thing a dealer won't do is tell you the current clearances on the shims, so if they "don't need it" you don't know if they're in the middle of the range, or if they're 1/10th of a mm from the edge of the spec. Edit: or hell, if the tech said "close 'nuff, I don't feel like pulling cams for one valve" which I've seen happen...

 
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Breaking down the bike is pretty easy. Measuring and re-shimming, then re-measuring after getting the cams back on and re-torqued actually takes a substantial amount of time.

There's no way in Hell I'd pay $600 to have them checked. It is so damn easy to check them yourself. It's about a 2 hour job in your garage, maybe 2.5 hours all back together and riding again. I'm not much of a mechanic either. A local well-regarded mechanic in the Twin Cities here charges $250 including adjustment. That dealer is making a **** ton of money off people charging $600 to check them.

Amen to that. I picked up the bike yesterday and low and behold no valve adjustment needed. So..... $600 bucks to simply check things over- not even a reach around :dribble: .

Oh well, I'm coming from Harley where everything is expensive.

Live and learn
That's alright - like you said live and learn. Welcome to the site! - the FJR forum and members here as a whole are a pretty experienced bunch of riders / DIY'ers and you will learn all you need to do most things yourself, or to help fix a problem.

Oh, and the biggest annoyance I had is getting the valve cover back on without the gasket falling off!

 
Breaking down the bike is pretty easy. Measuring and re-shimming, then re-measuring after getting the cams back on and re-torqued actually takes a substantial amount of time.

There's no way in Hell I'd pay $600 to have them checked. It is so damn easy to check them yourself. It's about a 2 hour job in your garage, maybe 2.5 hours all back together and riding again. I'm not much of a mechanic either. A local well-regarded mechanic in the Twin Cities here charges $250 including adjustment. That dealer is making a **** ton of money off people charging $600 to check them.

Amen to that. I picked up the bike yesterday and low and behold no valve adjustment needed. So..... $600 bucks to simply check things over- not even a reach around :dribble: .

Oh well, I'm coming from Harley where everything is expensive.

Live and learn
That's alright - like you said live and learn. Welcome to the site! - the FJR forum and members here as a whole are a pretty experienced bunch of riders / DIY'ers and you will learn all you need to do most things yourself, or to help fix a problem.

Oh, and the biggest annoyance I had is getting the valve cover back on without the gasket falling off!
I'll second that....I put a light skim of RTV on the cover flange to hold the damn thing in place.

 
Well, I think some of you guys are talking out your ***! Of course, I haven't done it myself yet so can't say for sure but I am damn confident it would take me a HELL of a lot more than 2.5 hours to do an adjustment. Probably take me a whole day the first time. Maybe even more than a day.

My guy charges 5.4 hours. He says it takes him longer. I trust him. Someday, I'll find out for myself.

And for FJReady - $300? Are you sure he did it? Or did it right? Hell, parts alone for the job my guy does is close to $200. Granted, he is charging full MSRP and I could get that stuff myself cheaper, but there are four spark plugs, three quarts of coolant, and a metric butload of gaskets and o-rings that are replaced.

Oh, and my guy DOES tell me the current clearance on the shims. In fact, he goes so far to annotate if the measurement was a tight one (-) or a loose one (+).

 
Another thing a dealer won't do is tell you the current clearances on the shims, so if they "don't need it" you don't know if they're in the middle of the range, or if they're 1/10th of a mm from the edge of the spec. Edit: or hell, if the tech said "close 'nuff, I don't feel like pulling cams for one valve" which I've seen happen...

They were decent enough to write down the clearances for me. Should help on the next one... THE ONE I DO MYSELF!!!

 
Breaking down the bike is pretty easy. Measuring and re-shimming, then re-measuring after getting the cams back on and re-torqued actually takes a substantial amount of time.

There's no way in Hell I'd pay $600 to have them checked. It is so damn easy to check them yourself. It's about a 2 hour job in your garage, maybe 2.5 hours all back together and riding again. I'm not much of a mechanic either. A local well-regarded mechanic in the Twin Cities here charges $250 including adjustment. That dealer is making a **** ton of money off people charging $600 to check them.

Amen to that. I picked up the bike yesterday and low and behold no valve adjustment needed. So..... $600 bucks to simply check things over- not even a reach around :dribble: .

Oh well, I'm coming from Harley where everything is expensive.

Live and learn
That's alright - like you said live and learn. Welcome to the site! - the FJR forum and members here as a whole are a pretty experienced bunch of riders / DIY'ers and you will learn all you need to do most things yourself, or to help fix a problem.

Oh, and the biggest annoyance I had is getting the valve cover back on without the gasket falling off!
Thanks- looking forward to learning AMAP

 
Well, I think some of you guys are talking out your ***! Of course, I haven't done it myself yet so can't say for sure but I am damn confident it would take me a HELL of a lot more than 2.5 hours to do an adjustment. Probably take me a whole day the first time. Maybe even more than a day.

My guy charges 5.4 hours. He says it takes him longer. I trust him. Someday, I'll find out for myself.

And for FJReady - $300? Are you sure he did it? Or did it right? Hell, parts alone for the job my guy does is close to $200. Granted, he is charging full MSRP and I could get that stuff myself cheaper, but there are four spark plugs, three quarts of coolant, and a metric butload of gaskets and o-rings that are replaced.

Oh, and my guy DOES tell me the current clearance on the shims. In fact, he goes so far to annotate if the measurement was a tight one (-) or a loose one (+).
In some ways I agree. At times you gotta think of basic economics. Remember Econ 101? The attorney who likes to garden, but earns $250 an hour at work. If he pays the gardener $45 an hour to do the work while he is at the office, he is good. Unless, of course, he simply enjoys gardening (who wouldn't like that over law :p )

If I'm paying an hourly shop rate, while I am generating revenue, I'm cool with that. What is your time worth? If you want to take on a maintenance project, go for it. If not, as long as you are in a position to earn more than the service is costing, no worries.

Just another way to look at it.

 
Well, I think some of you guys are talking out your ***! Of course, I haven't done it myself yet so can't say for sure but I am damn confident it would take me a HELL of a lot more than 2.5 hours to do an adjustment. Probably take me a whole day the first time. Maybe even more than a day.

My guy charges 5.4 hours. He says it takes him longer. I trust him. Someday, I'll find out for myself.

And for FJReady - $300? Are you sure he did it? Or did it right? Hell, parts alone for the job my guy does is close to $200. Granted, he is charging full MSRP and I could get that stuff myself cheaper, but there are four spark plugs, three quarts of coolant, and a metric butload of gaskets and o-rings that are replaced.

Oh, and my guy DOES tell me the current clearance on the shims. In fact, he goes so far to annotate if the measurement was a tight one (-) or a loose one (+).

Sounds about right to me....when I did mine it was right around 2 1/2.......oh wait, that was days....2 1/2 DAYS!! :lol:

 
It would take me many more hours than the 3 charged by me dealer and seeing as how I split time between 3 bikes I dont rack up 26k-30k miles on the FJR as fast as I used to. It's worth it to me to have the dealer knock this one out. That said, I have had wildly different prices from three different local dealers and no valve adjustments needed in each case.

That said, I am preparing to sell my right nut to science (I am done with kids anyway) and possibly sell a kidney to pay for the C14 valve adjustment late this year. Take one look at that job and it makes my FJR bill look like a petty cash expense!

 
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Can anyone recommend asource for a decent set of metric thickness gauges? I have a set and can use combinations to get fairly good resolution but would like to get a reasonably priced set with a fair number of increments in the appropriate range.

Ross

 
For those looking for shim kits, numerous vendors on ebay sell them and there's one that sells the 9.48mm kit for $71 delivered. Occasionally used kits go for less.

 
Bumpsie....

It's time for my first scheduled valve check. I called the most highly reccommended yamaha dealer in the State. The estimate? $1,000.00!!

I'm going to re-think doing it myself.

Using the horrible search feature on this forum (sorry mods, but it's true), I looked, but could not find a picturesque "how to" on valve adjustement.

Can anyone point to a linky?

Edit - Any other tips is appreciated. If I tackle this myself, I will buy the freaking $100.00 shop manual. I've never done a valve lash adjustment on a bike. I've done brake pads, fork seals, regular maintenance, etc. I'm prolly only suffering from "Kennedy-itis" ("The only think we have to fear.....") - still, before I get into it, I'd like to know more.

Edit again - As RadioHowie points out, my American History is cloudy and I confused FDR with JFK.

Thanks.

 
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Bumpsie....

It's time for my first scheduled valve check. I called the most highly reccommended yamaha dealer in the State. The estimate? $1,000.00!!

I'm going to re-think doing it myself.

Using the horrible search feature on this forum (sorry mods, but it's true), I looked, but could not find a picturesque "how to" on valve adjustement.

Can anyone point to a linky?

Edit - Any other tips is appreciated. If I tackle this myself, I will buy the freaking $100.00 shop manual. I've never done a valve lash adjustment on a bike. I've done brake pads, fork seals, regular maintenance, etc. I'm prolly only suffering from "Kennedy-itis" ("The only think we have to fear.....") - still, before I get into it, I'd like to know more.

Thanks.
Much as I hate to say it, you're fooked before you even start....That quote was from Franklin D. Roosevelt's 1933 Inauguration speech.

:D :D

But buying the shop manual IS a good start!

 
Bumpsie....

It's time for my first scheduled valve check. I called the most highly reccommended yamaha dealer in the State. The estimate? $1,000.00!!

I'm going to re-think doing it myself.

Using the horrible search feature on this forum (sorry mods, but it's true), I looked, but could not find a picturesque "how to" on valve adjustement.

Can anyone point to a linky?

Edit - Any other tips is appreciated. If I tackle this myself, I will buy the freaking $100.00 shop manual. I've never done a valve lash adjustment on a bike. I've done brake pads, fork seals, regular maintenance, etc. I'm prolly only suffering from "Kennedy-itis" ("The only think we have to fear.....") - still, before I get into it, I'd like to know more.

Thanks.
https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/valveadj.html Here ya go!

 
Can anyone recommend asource for a decent set of metric thickness gauges? I have a set and can use combinations to get fairly good resolution but would like to get a reasonably priced set with a fair number of increments in the appropriate range.

Ross
Try Napaonline.com or Sears.com to start...... you could also try buying individual blades at your local automotive industrial supply. You only need a few.

 
Can anyone recommend asource for a decent set of metric thickness gauges? I have a set and can use combinations to get fairly good resolution but would like to get a reasonably priced set with a fair number of increments in the appropriate range.

Ross
Try Napaonline.com or Sears.com to start...... you could also try buying individual blades at your local automotive industrial supply. You only need a few.
Wow. Timely advice - 15 months later :rolleyes: . I ended out with a set from Canadian Tire. They have both metric and SAE. The metric set will give you everything you need but you have to use combinations of 2 or more blades for some measurements. Depends if you want to do "Go - NoGo", or if you want an actual measurement.

Glad this topic came up again; I needed a reminder. I did mine last August and they are past due for the next one (over 30,000 mi.). I had 3 or 4 valves at the minimum spec when I did my first check last year at 50,000+ miles. If I didn't have some on the borderline, I would wait longer. Winter project; not while there is a little bit of riding weather left.

Ross

 
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Bumpsie....

It's time for my first scheduled valve check. I called the most highly reccommended yamaha dealer in the State. The estimate? $1,000.00!!

I'm going to re-think doing it myself.
I think you called a BMW dealer by mistake...LOL....

It's worth doing yourself, don't be too intimidated. It may take you 4-5 hrs. actual working time the first time, but if you need to buy parts/shims, allow yourself that the bike may be apart for a few days. The worst is the tight conditions, getting the valve cover off and on and keeping the gasket in place (I think putting the left end in first was the way to go).

To improve on the procedure, be sure to follow the manual for position of the cam when checking the clearances. Then, if you have to remove the cams, first align the cam timing marks (right end of cam gears and on crankshaft sprocket) per the manual. That way, if you happened to slip a tooth on the cams, all the timing marks are right there for ready reference, no guessing. Remove the cam cap bolts a little bit at a time so you don't accidentally break a cam. Same with reinstallation. If you have it apart, it's worth removing every shim and documenting what size it is for future reference.

Take the opportunity to replace the cam chain tensioner (a whole other procedure) to the new superior Gen2 tensioner.

Shim kits OK, but you will not use the vast majority of it. Individual shims are available cheap... don't remember my source (I'll look for it), but I bought a range around the nominal ones Yammy uses. Something like $1.50 each.

 
Can anyone recommend asource for a decent set of metric thickness gauges? I have a set and can use combinations to get fairly good resolution but would like to get a reasonably priced set with a fair number of increments in the appropriate range.

Ross
Try Napaonline.com or Sears.com to start...... you could also try buying individual blades at your local automotive industrial supply. You only need a few.
Wow. Timely advice - 15 months later :rolleyes: . I ended out with a set from Canadian Tire. They have both metric and SAE. The metric set will give you everything you need but you have to use combinations of 2 or more blades for some measurements. Depends if you want to do "Go - NoGo", or if you want an actual measurement.

Glad this topic came up again; I needed a reminder. I did mine last August and they are past due for the next one (over 30,000 mi.). I had 3 or 4 valves at the minimum spec when I did my first check last year at 50,000+ miles. If I didn't have some on the borderline, I would wait longer. Winter project; not while there is a little bit of riding weather left.

Ross
Another good source is a tech day. We have done a couple dozen checks over the years at the PNW tech day. Here are some Photos from Fall PNW tech meet. We still have yet to have one that needs adjustment, but there are a handful of us who know how to make the adjustments. Even if you have to travel a little ways to get there, it is worth it to learn how to do these. If you make arrangements ahead of time, I'm sure the organizer will make sure your bike is one of the ones that gets a valve check/adjustment.

A tech manual for your bike is a must. Spend the $100 and get it, you will use it all the time.

It does take about 2-1/2 hours to get into the valves, check and button it up with help from someone who has done them. Add another 1/2 to 1 hour for the CCT change out. The Gen 1 cover is the biggest PIA to get off and put back on. Especially if the main wire harness is routed wrong like it was on BikerSkier's '05 at the last tech day.

Our tech days have evolved since the beginning to reflect current needs of riders in the area. The last tech meet had two sets of forks completely torn down and rebuilt. We did two more sets last weekend.

One last thing, if you do take it to the dealer, demand they provide the valve check sheet showing the clearances measured and the parts replaced. Specifically, the valve cover gasket. I have a friend that paid a local dealer to do the valve check (due to time constraints - he couldn't wait for the tech day). They told him the vlaves were "within spec" on the invoice and that's it. Well 5,000 miles later his gen 1 started ticking (35,000 miles on the bike). I went over to his house to help him replace the CCT. As part of the process, I always remove the valve cover and zip tie the cam chain to the cams so they can not move.

We discovered the valve cover has never been removed. It had the original gasket in place and it stuck to the head and ripped the gasket when removing. Also the hose clamp on the left side of the themostat in fornt of the water tubes was in an inaccessable place as assembled in the factory. The bolts holding the water tubes down to the head had never been removed because they get crusty and corroded with the only marks inside the hex head were from me removing the bolts - no tightening marks. In addition, the cover over the end of the crank, which is painted, was never removed to spin the crank for the valve adjsutment. How can we tell, it is a painted surface and will have tool marks in it if it was removed and the gasket under the whole side cover was still original.

Short story - the dealer's mechanic pencil whipped the valve check. We did check and they were all in spec, but he now has a vavle check sheet to know exactly where they are, and he now knows how to do the check and what it feels like when the feeler gage has proper tension on it for the reading. He is out $700 for the valve check - but he will be having a discussion with the shop owner soon about it.

 
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