Valve check, PAIR cover install, rear rotor & tire change, rear pads

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dragonchef

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 4, 2007
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Location
Seoul. Korea
It’s spring & time to get ready for the season. Big thanks to FJR1300.info for detailed valve check documentation as well as 08FJR4ME (Dave – Wyn-Pro) for the PAIR covers and Bigfoot. If you have not seen Wyn-Pro’s fantastic work, I encourage you to do so, it is sublime. Also thanks to Dave and others for the forum pics on the PAIR install, invaluable reference, especially considering the language challenge I face here in the great city of Seoul. Without further ado….here we go…

The Maintenance schedule that I use is a an excel spreadsheet located here;

https://www.bikes-n-spikes.org/maint/maint.html (thanks to Mark Johnson). It has been a great tool for me to track, understand and document not only the maintenance listed, but also things like tires, filters, lights and other changes to the bike. I use the gas tab for this data.

Mileage on my 2007 is 29,230. Yes valve adjustment was late, but as some others have said here, modding this sheet to 5K mile intervals makes life a little simpler, and brings is in line with the rest of the world as far as intervals are concerned;

Here’s the list;

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Been having problems with the horn relay. Not sure why it goes out every 6 months, but it does.

My mechanic modified Randy's harness so the relay has less chance to get wet(he said it was wet

inside. If this doesn't work, I'm going with some other horns & a different set-up.

Also missing the Bigfoot install, but it got done, ‘nuf said.

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Is this a problem??

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Had to replace my rear rotor. The disc was warped (sever run-out). My rear brake hung up during a ride last summer, and cooked the thing. Not sure how it happened, but I should not have touched it when I saw the smoke…sorry, no pics of the rotor change…

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No whale **** avail in Korea…

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Valve Check

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Preemptive cam tensionor replacement

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Check your radiator caps…mine needed replacement…

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Finishing up…

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And the bill…Korean Won 360,000 or $321.42…as usual, he provided some freebies, like the radiator cap, the coolant and several others….service here is really first rate!!

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Regarding the horn relay getting wet, I seal my relays with some high temp. silicon and they last a lot longer.

 
Nice quality pics
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Just a couple of observations; is that a complete header back Muzzy single outlet exhaust or are the non-US models 4 into 1?

That white ground wire on the valve cover, it's probably just me but I don't like any exposed wiring as it tends to be a corrosion point, a dab of liquid tape on eyelet end would be good piece of mind. And, it seems such a shame not to change the brake fluid and clutch fluid after doing all of the other work, after 4 yrs and 29k miles it's time, especially after super heating the fluid when the rear hung up, although most of it probably was replaced during the caliper r&r. Just my cent and half
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Thanks Geez...great idea!

Ray....great points...I did the obligatory caliper rebuilds and fluid changes at the 2 year mark per the manual. I discussed the need to change the lines per the manual at 4 years with my mechanic, and we decided to do this at the end of this season giving me about 4.5 years on the bike. All the fluids will go then. Already looking at the price of the lines, and wow...they are pricey. Actually found that the SS Galfers are cheaper than the OEM products. The Muzzy full system came from a fellow forum member (Karmak)...think I paid $300 for the whole unit. Really like it a lot...pays to watch the for sale section of the forum!

 
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Okay, gotcha on the brake fluid deal DC, ya know, in my experience replacing the brake hoses really won't be necessary for a long time and with proper fluid maintenance as you are doing, you'll probably sell the bike before actually needing them. I put a complete SS Galfer set on a VTX 1800, which made a noticeable difference and was a welcome addition to that hefty girl's stopping ability, the FJR has some really awesome brakes as is, not sure how much benefit they might be unless you're doing track days...just something to ponder.

I think we all watch the classified section closely
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Just noticed the single exhaust and hadn't seen that set up before.

 
I really like the exhaust, the weight difference was substantial...details on that and the whole exhaust/Race Tech suspension install by same mechanic here.

Also, with all do respect to Jeff/Bike Effects, I found the Galfer SS lines, full set for $300 here.

 
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On the rims. I spoon my own tires and I clean the rim spotless and particular the bead. I use a scotch bright pad and a cleaner like 409, or any degrease cleaner. It makes spooning back on a lot easier and ensures a good bead set. I use the hose and let them in the sun for awhile or hand dry with a towel and bring them in the house to warm and dry. I am not saying you have to do this as a shop will not but to me if the seat is clean you have a better chance of it holding air and with metal stems it should be even better. Been doing my own tires for awhile now and find a clean rim is just better to work with overall and a good bead seat is ensured with a clean rim.

Lee

 
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