PJ4863
Well-known member
Ok.. it's about time for me to check my valve clearances. I know I need a few parts, new gaskets and what not. Does anyone know the part numbers off the top of their heads for the various o rings and the valve cover gasket?
valve check parts
- Thread starter PJ4863
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roger dodger
Well-known member
No, but I know the number of the guys who do... www.ronayers.com are easy to work with and (often) free shipping.
I hope you DON'T need the VC gasket. But you may need a new(er) (blue dot) CCT .
I hope you DON'T need the VC gasket. But you may need a new(er) (blue dot) CCT .
BigOgre
Well-known member
PJ4863
Well-known member
Thanks. I'm worried about the CCT too. I figured while is open to get that done too. I had already read that thread. I'm hesitant as it is to open up the bike that much. I think i'll manage though
escapefjrtist
Searching for Dry Roads
Water tube o-rings [2] and o-ring for the T-Stat housing on your GEN I for sure. Valve cover gasket is likely fine, just be careful when removing.
Cam Chain Tensioner change adds the CCT [duh!], gasket and oil pump cover gasket.
Parts can be found at Stadium Yamaha.
Have fun!
--G
Cam Chain Tensioner change adds the CCT [duh!], gasket and oil pump cover gasket.
Parts can be found at Stadium Yamaha.
Have fun!
--G
RossKean
Well-known member
If you are removing the cams to change shims and/or if you are changing the CCT, you will probably want a timing cover gasket. I have been able to re-use mine but you can't count on it. As others have said, you should most likely be able to re-use the valve cover gasket.
The timing cover and little CCT gaskets are cheap. You most likely won't need them, but they are just the thin paper type gasket so if it sticks you might tear it.
The valve cover gasket is a heavy ribbed rubber affair. Be gentle with removing it the first time as they do use sealant during assembly at the ends. The gasket will last the life of the bike. Don't bother using the sealant on the half moon ends (per the FSM) like they did in the factory as that just becomes a PITA to clean up the next time. It will not leak as long as you get the gasket positioned properly.
While you have the valve cover off, use some gasket sealant to glue the gasket to the underside of the valve cover. This makes it much easier to get positioned correctly during reassembly and you won't have any trouble the next time with it sticking to the head.
The valve cover gasket is a heavy ribbed rubber affair. Be gentle with removing it the first time as they do use sealant during assembly at the ends. The gasket will last the life of the bike. Don't bother using the sealant on the half moon ends (per the FSM) like they did in the factory as that just becomes a PITA to clean up the next time. It will not leak as long as you get the gasket positioned properly.
While you have the valve cover off, use some gasket sealant to glue the gasket to the underside of the valve cover. This makes it much easier to get positioned correctly during reassembly and you won't have any trouble the next time with it sticking to the head.
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What's the consensus about removing the sensor on top of the head cover? The first time I removed the cover I left the sensor in place. Its wire bundle is somewhat in the way when removing one of the cover bolts.
The last time I removed the head cover I removed the sensor and it was definitely easier to access that cover bolt.
Maybe the best procedure includes removing the sensor from the cover.
There appeared to be threadlock on the sensor mounting bolt. It didn't turn all that easy.
The last time I removed the head cover I removed the sensor and it was definitely easier to access that cover bolt.
Maybe the best procedure includes removing the sensor from the cover.
There appeared to be threadlock on the sensor mounting bolt. It didn't turn all that easy.
I've always pulled the sensor out. Don't really see why you wouldn't want to.
I'm going against the grain here and saying to order a valve cover seal. True, if you're careful it's likely you won't need it. But IMHO it's better to have it and not use it than find out later you need it and don't have it. Please DAMHIK this...
Donal
Well-known member
IIRC, number 14 and number 17 o rings at Home Depot ($2.50 box of 10). Get a vc gasket, blue dot cct, gasket for same, shim kit, wiggler socket extension.
There's enough info on this site to do both the CCT and valve check like a fricken expert!
Read the threads, print what you need, follow the directions, you'll be glad you did. I know I was when I did both this past summer. Good luck.
There's enough info on this site to do both the CCT and valve check like a fricken expert!
Read the threads, print what you need, follow the directions, you'll be glad you did. I know I was when I did both this past summer. Good luck.
PJ4863
Well-known member
what about the shim bucket tool? Is it worth it?
Not needed. If you need to pull the shims (you probably won't on the first check) the buckets come out easily with no special tools. I think I may have used a regular magnet I had laying around.
dragonchef
Well-known member
wow great timing on this topic as I am going in for check #2 @ 55K...thanks to all!!
CAJW
Well-known member
Here's info I sent a friend as reference material. Not a hard job, just take your time and double check everything.
https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/valveadj.html
https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=16473
https://www.procycle.us/hotcams/hotcams.html Shim kit source
https://www.toolsource.com/ feeler gauge source
Parts needed:
New o-rings for the Coolant pipe
Valve cover gasket (unless you feel lucky, I was)
https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/valveadj.html
https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=16473
https://www.procycle.us/hotcams/hotcams.html Shim kit source
https://www.toolsource.com/ feeler gauge source
Parts needed:
New o-rings for the Coolant pipe
Valve cover gasket (unless you feel lucky, I was)
Dale2010
Well-known member
What shim kits are available for the 2013 model? There seem to be numerous kits available for earlier years but few if any listed for 2013. Thanks for any suggestions.
RossKean
Well-known member
Same shim size (diameter). I don't know if the "normal" thickness is the same between generations but I suspect there is little difference. The trouble with any kit is that the kit covers a wide range of thickness with only a few of each dimension. FJR's typically have all shims in a fairly narrow range. On the one and only time I have had to make adjustments, I ended out sanding a half-dozen shims to the correct thickness on carbide paper rather than wait for a custom mail order or see what the local dealer had in stock.
I would expect them to be the same general thicknesses as they didn't change anything about the valve train. Rather than buying a whole bunch of shims you'll never use in a kit (because they are way thicker or thinner than any FJR would use) you might want to order new shims after you see what you need. Winter in Nova Scotia is long enough to not be in any rush. 
