Valve Check Tips? <Nucking Futs!>

[dcarver]

Preparing to valve check KrZy8.

1. I searched and couldn't find previous posts about ty-wrapping the cam chain at the crank gear, IIRC?
   
2. Cam chain tensioner removal, any tricks? Does the plunger need be plunged or whatever prior to removal. Reason for removal is leaky gasket.
   
3. Any other tips before I dive in?

TIA, dcarver

 

[SLK50]

Heres a tip: Make sure you have the green plug for the

temp sensor firmly in hand BEFORE you bolt the valve

cover back on. Doh!

 

[wetwolf]

There is an opening in the frame right next to the CCT. Tape over this hole so that when (not if) you drop a bolt, it doesn't go into the frame. DAMHIK

 

[Mihalis fjr]

These links perhaps will help you

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/118270-notes-on-valve-clearance-check/

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/136891-lessons-learned-on-changing-the-cct/?do=findComment&comment=846482

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=122970

 

[Fred W]

If you are doing a check you dont need to slacken the chain. Only if you need to make an adjustment. Then you do need to release tension

I put the engine at the timing mark, and ty-wrap the chain to the cams so you wont lose time of those. You can tywrap the chain to itself at the crank sprocket and that wont move either. Then there is no way to end up mistimed when you are done. With the cam sprockets tied to the chain it is a bit tricky getting the cam(s) up out of the way, but it can be done.

But I wouldnt do any of that until I was sure I needed to adjust

 

[FJRay]

Preparing to valve check KrZy8.

1. I searched and couldn't find previous posts about ty-wrapping the cam chain at the crank gear, IIRC?
   
2. Cam chain tensioner removal, any tricks? Does the plunger need be plunged or whatever prior to removal. Reason for removal is leaky gasket.
   
3. Any other tips before I dive in?

TIA, dcarver

Here is a tip. Don't let Richard help. It took him three attempts to get it right the last time.

Like Fred said, no need to tie anything or slack the adjuster just to check

 

[SkooterG]

Tips?

Don't **** up.

 

[philter]

I seem to remember something about a long thin screwdriver to back off the cct screw, that I had to grind down on the grinder to get thin enough. If it's been more than 4 days since I did something things get fuzzy.

 

[hppants]

Fred's method of holding the chain in time is rock solid. Few other things I might add:

1. Vacuum out the crud and grit from on top of the head before moving the coolant pipe. No sense in getting that crap in your cooling system.

2. Cover the cooling pipe holes with a paper towel while it's open (post valve cover removal). Again - you don't want to drop anything in there.

3. Remove the timing cover even for just the valve check. You could turn the wheel with the motor in high gear and rotate the cams, but you won't know EXACTLY where the motor is on TDC without removing the timing cover. I'm still on the fence regarding whether the valve shim gap is actually different between having the lobes straight up and having them at TDC (you are supposedly on the round portion of the lobe for the check), but the book says at TDC, so do it right, I say.

4. Drop the valve cover gasket well, and clean between it and the valve cover. Then take some red RTV and put just a small dab in about 6-8 spots between the gasket and the cover. Let that sit overnight or at least a few hours to cure and effectively "glue" and hold the gasket to the cover. Put a dab of RTV in the corners where the ends of the cams are for sealing purposes. By gluing the gasket in place, it won't move around when you are trying to re-install the cover.

5. If you have to change shims, while the cams are loose, use some liquid paper and color the timing mark arrows that are used to line up with the head/block line. This will make it MUCH easier to see them when you are checking for good timing after the motor is back together (#6 below).

6. Even with Fred's method, rotate the motor by hand at least 4 revolutions to ensure that the motor ends up at TDC and the cams are in time (arrow marks are even with the head/block line) BEFORE starting the bike for the first time. This absolutely saved me from grenading a friend's motor some time ago.

 

[dcarver]

Heres a tip: Make sure you have the green plug for thetemp sensor firmly in hand BEFORE you bolt the valve

cover back on. Doh!

Say whaaat? Did you crimp the wires under the cover?

These links perhaps will help you

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/118270-notes-on-valve-clearance-check/

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/136891-lessons-learned-on-changing-the-cct/?do=findComment&comment=846482

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=122970

Many Thanks, many Thanks..

If you are doing a check you dont need to slacken the chain. Only if you need to make an adjustment. Then you do need to release tension
I put the engine at the timing mark, and ty-wrap the chain to the cams so you wont lose time of those. You can tywrap the chain to itself at the crank sprocket and that wont move either. Then there is no way to end up mistimed when you are done. With the cam sprockets tied to the chain it is a bit tricky getting the cam(s) up out of the way, but it can be done.

But I wouldnt do any of that until I was sure I needed to adjust

Hopefully... no adj needed. Last time I lifted a cam was on the KZ1300 and it went back 1 tooth out on exhaust... right before a big trip too. Took me 3 weeks to figure it out...

Tips?
Don't **** up.

Now THAT's the best tip ever!

JSNS and https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//public/style_emoticons/default/****.gif

Hugs n' Kisses

 

[JREW]

Instead of gluing the gasket in place, I use some blue painters tape all around the edge of the valve cover to hold the gasket in place while refitting. Then you can easily pull the tape off afterwards. I have used this method 4 times already with excellent results. I prefer this over the RTV because there is no drying time and the next time you do the valve check, there is no cleanup.

Don't be tempted to reuse the valve cover gasket, even if it looks good, it's not. Don't ask me how I know.

 

[RossKean]

After almost 200,000 miles and numerous valve checks, my '07 still had the original valve cover gasket when I sold it (earlier this week).

My only tip other than the ty-wrap of the cams to the chain as mentioned above is to disconnect the throttle cables at the grip. Once loosened at the engine, it is possible to move them far enough out of the way to make removal and installation of the valve cover MUCH easier.

 

[Pterodactyl]

I suggest buying, borrowing or renting a Super Tenere and adjusting the valves on it. Nearly identical in construction and procedure, but like building a boat in an old Tabasco bottle. After that the FJR will seem like a gentle breeze. It may help, however, if you get a copy of Barrons Guide to Inventive Profanity. Read it for comprehension and rehearse a few outbursts. Good luck, Don.

 

[redzgrider]

I've got your tip: Don't. Really. If you don't have a lot of miles, it just won't be worth the effort. The valves will almost certainly not only be in tolerance, but likely toward the loose end of tolerance -- which is where they should be.

 

[FJRay]

Why would you not do factory recommended maintenance. The people that engineered this engine probably have a pretty good idea what is needed. Lots don't need much if any but why take a chance on being wrong and grenade a motor. It has happened. Did you read the part where this particular machine has 250k on the clock. YMMV.

 

[Fred W]

I've got your tip: Don't. Really. If you don't have a lot of miles, it just won't be worth the effort. The valves will almost certainly not only be in tolerance, but likely toward the loose end of tolerance -- which is where they should be.

You must be new around here. Were talking about D Carvers old beat up 2006. It must have over 250k miles on it by now. This will not be this bikes first valve check.

 

[dcarver]

Instead of gluing the gasket in place, I use some blue painters tape all around the edge of the valve cover to hold the gasket in place while refitting. Then you can easily pull the tape off afterwards. I have used this method 4 times already with excellent results. I prefer this over the RTV because there is no drying time and the next time you do the valve check, there is no cleanup.
Don't be tempted to reuse the valve cover gasket, even if it looks good, it's not. Don't ask me how I know.

Painters tape? Hey now, I GOTS ME SOME BLUE PAINTERS TAPE!

After almost 200,000 miles and numerous valve checks, my '07 still had the original valve cover gasket when I sold it (earlier this week).
My only tip other than the ty-wrap of the cams to the chain as mentioned above is to disconnect the throttle cables at the grip. Once loosened at the engine, it is possible to move them far enough out of the way to make removal and installation of the valve cover MUCH easier.

By default, yes, my throttle cables are being replaced so they are way outta the way now..

I've got your tip: Don't. Really. If you don't have a lot of miles, it just won't be worth the effort. The valves will almost certainly not only be in tolerance, but likely toward the loose end of tolerance -- which is where they should be.

You must be new around here. Were talking about D Carvers old beat up 2006. It must have over 250k miles on it by now. This will not be this bikes first valve check.

Just shy of 250k. Riding the crap outta Naomi and Wabs and even Uncle Dutch have reduced KrZy8 mileage uptick.

 

[Bounce]

I've got your tip: Don't. Really. If you don't have a lot of miles, it just won't be worth the effort. The valves will almost certainly not only be in tolerance, but likely toward the loose end of tolerance -- which is where they should be.

And that, dear reader, is why you ask to see the current owner's service folder if considering buying used.

 

[RossKean]

I've got your tip: Don't. Really. If you don't have a lot of miles, it just won't be worth the effort. The valves will almost certainly not only be in tolerance, but likely toward the loose end of tolerance -- which is where they should be.

And that, dear reader, is why you ask to see the current owner's service folder if considering buying used.

Agreed! Although I wouldn't be terribly upset if I was buying a bike with up to 50,000 miles that had not had a valve check as long as there was clear evidence that all of the other maintenance had been done. Unfortunately, those who neglect one thing often neglect other critical stuff.

In addition, most people find that while valves are almost always in spec at the first (and even the second or third) scheduled valve checks, clearances (especially the intakes) tend to be on the tight side of the specification range, right from the factory.

I know that Carver's bike has something on the order of a quarter million miles on it (here to the moon) but I'm not sure how many miles on that engine. Seems to me it was replaced at something less than 200,000 miles on the original one?