That's what I was talking about. I already knew that. I checked the valves just fine and can get by with the measurements till the next check. You have to take the cams off to replace shims. I wasn't prepared to do that if it needed it. Will try to be prepared at the next check with the knowledge or help from someone that has pulled cams for a adjustment before.
I live in Ft Worth what shop did you use?
Lone Star in Irving. The service department seemed to be competent. It's not really farther from me than the shop I usually go to in Rockwall, but you have to drive through downtown Dallas to get there and back unless you want to go 10 or 15 miles out of the way to avoid it. The traffic sucks through there most of the time. I can already tell you I will go back to Lone Star if I need any mechanical or technical problems I can't figure out on my own. I have lost confidence in the Rockwall service department. That goes for Ride Now Powersports on 635 and Plano Rd. also.
Just for your future adjustment plans, if cylinder 1 to 3 are the only ones needing adjustment, you do NOT have to completely pull the cams. All you have to do after removing the bolts that hold them, is tip the cam up from the left side, being careful not to slip the timing chain (a zip tie or two helps). Doing this will give you access to the buckets and shims and not require removing the cam chain. If cylinder 4 is out, then you'll have to do it all.
I never considered that, although for some reason I have found #4 to be out more than 1-3. In any case, if I am changing any of the intake shims, I'll adjust all of them to approx 70% of the max in the acceptance interval. This safely ensures the longest possible time until they will need further adjustment.
Probably makes some difference - more wear per mile, especially running lower gear at high rpm. How many miles on your FJRs? Quite often, valve adjustments are not necessary before 50,000 to 75,000 miles. A few (not necessarily abused) have needed changes at the first scheduled interval. May depend on how close they were from the factory.
Good point! I'm pretty careful with it and haven't had issues on my FJR, but you have to watch what you are doing.
Currently the bike has 71,000 miles completed. I do not recall if there was any adjustments needed at the first scheduled interval.
Have you looked at the actual valve clearance data yourself or was the work done by a shop that simply did "Go, no-Go" with a min and max feeler gauge? I always measure and record actual clearance so I can track change over time. Knowing it is a pass gives me no idea how close they are or how long I might choose to wait before the next clearance check. Proper measurement tracking might also tell me if there was an incipient problem with the engine that affected valve clearance.
Thanks for your comments. I have not seen the actual measurements. The shop that did the last valve has a very experienced tech who said, considering your age and how you ride it is not likely shims will be a concern.
Not sure how I would take that comment. I don't beat the snot out of it but I have had to make adjustments on both FJRs I have owned (I just put lots of miles on them). If I had a shop do the work, I would want to know actual clearances.
I have used them (Lone Star) too but now adays, the hourly rate has risen so much, I am hoping I can do any needed stuff myself... not that I am all that qualified! Bought a couple of bikes from them as well.
