Valve cover leak, looking for some help in northern Colorado

[1FJR]

So while doing some maintenance on my bike, I noticed there was oil coming down the front of the motor. On further looking around looks like my valve cover gasket is leaking. It is time for valve adjustment. I am just not sure I want to do it by myself. Is there anyone in the northern Colorado area that has done this that might be willing to give me a hand or they know a good mechanic?
Thanks

 

[RossKean]

A valve cover leak is usually the "half moon" pieces not properly in the slot or the previous installation did not have the gasket properly in the groove. I did my first valve check unassisted without having watched anyone do one before. A bit of a white knuckle experience but I managed it with some of the "how to" articles here and some feedback when I had questions. Didn't need adjustments that time (or the next) but did the time after that.

 

[Rocnsanman]

So while doing some maintenance on my bike, I noticed there was oil coming down the front of the motor. On further looking around looks like my valve cover gasket is leaking. It is time for valve adjustment. I am just not sure I want to do it by myself. Is there anyone in the northern Colorado area that has done this that might be willing to give me a hand or they know a good mechanic?
Thanks

Where in NoCo do you live? There is a decent shop in Loveland I've used.

 

[MotoMike]

Some background: Prior to my retirement in May, 2019, I had never done any kind of mechanical work on any vehicle of any kind. I bought a new-to-me 2007 FJR 1300A in May, 2020 that had 49,600 kms on the odometer.

Like RossKean in post #2, I also did the valve check unassisted without having watched anyone do it.

I referred to my Hayne's manual, my FJR shop manual and this video by 2-Wheel Obsession: . When I had a question or was unsure, I searched for answers and asked for help on this extremely helpful forum.

FYI, including finding and watching and re-watching videos, reading and re-reading shop manuals, taking photos of every step of the process so that I could re-assemble things in reverse order, I estimate it took me about 10 hours from start to finish. This did not include the inevitable travel time to various stores to get that tool you need but don't have.

Lucky for me, the valves were all within spec so I did not have to change any shims. That was the first valve check and it was done in May of 2021 at 59,000 kms (about 36,000 miles).

So, I say go for it! Take your time, take a break when (not if) you get frustrated and just leave the project sit and start fresh after a day or two if you find yourself thinking about cutting corners.

You will save yourself hundreds of dollars in labour costs and you will know that the job was done correctly.

 

[1FJR]

Where in NoCo do you live? There is a decent shop in Loveland I've used.

Firestone, so Loveland would not be that far.

 

[Rocnsanman]

I used Rocky Mountain Motorsports on Madison, Loveland. I found them to be very professional and friendly. As a matter of fact, the owner lives in Firestone. Good luck.

 

[FJRJayke]

When I did my valves, getting the valve cover to stop leaking was the hardest part. Took three tries. The T bar brackets on top of the engine kept knocking the gasket loose and I couldn't see or feel it. The valve cover is a tight.
fit under them.

 

[RossKean]

When I did my valves, getting the valve cover to stop leaking was the hardest part. Took three tries. The T bar brackets on top of the engine kept knocking the gasket loose and I couldn't see or feel it. The valve cover is a tight.
fit under them.

Trick is to remove the gasket and clean the valve cover thoroughly, including getting rid of any oil in the channel for the gasket. Put a SMALL amount of O2 sensor-safe RTV silicone in the channel and fit the (also cleaned) gasket onto the valve cover. Let the RTV cure before attempting to fit the valve cover. I use mineral spirits to clean valve cover and gasket... Edit: Don't use excess silicone - you don't want pieces coming off and circulating in the engine.

Much easier to manipulate the cover when you don't have to worry about the gasket. Also, unhook the throttle cables at the grip, pull them out of the bracket at the engine and push them aside for MUCH easier access.

 

[FullMetal]

When I did my valves, getting the valve cover to stop leaking was the hardest part. Took three tries. The T bar brackets on top of the engine kept knocking the gasket loose and I couldn't see or feel it. The valve cover is a tight.
fit under them.

I just did mine last week (2005 Gen 1, 55k miles). I followed the video above, even though there are differences in the versions. I also used a LIGHT bit of black RTV on the valve cover to hold the gasket. I'm not sure what "T" bracket you are referring to, but if it is the frame crossmember, I removed mine prior to valve cover removal. Even so, it is quite tight in there and I had to slide in the valve cover a certain way to avoid catching the gasket on anything.

BTW, valve lash was in spec so no need to replace any shims. I also replaced my CCT while I was in there as it was the original.

I did have an antifreeze leak and had to replace an O Ring after engine reassembly. I found it before I put the fairing back on so not too much trouble caused. I somehow managed to damage one of them (all new) during the first reassembly.

So far, I am happy with the money I saved.

 

[1FJR]

So decided to take this on. All was going great until I got to the bolts holding the cooling system pipe on top. After cleaning the area, noticed last night that the area looked pretty corroded. So sprayed some penetrating stuff and let it sit till this afternoon. First bolt came out, but it was not happy. Second bolt not so much. Tried tapping on the bolt to see if that would break it loose. Nope, but thought it did as the Allen socket started to turn. That was just the bolt stripping out. So more penetrating stuff and going to let sit overnight and then try bolt extraction tomorrow. If that does not work, will probably just drill out the head so I came the pipe out. Then after the cover is off the motor work on it again.

 

[1FJR]

Finally was able to get in and check the clearance on the valves. All the intake are good, .15-.18. The exhaust on the other hand are out on #2 and #3. #2 is .13 and .15, #3 is .15 and .20.
Guess I will be doing an adjustment on the exhaust valves.

 

[RossKean]

In almost 300,000 miles of FJR ownership (two bikes) I have only ever had intake valves go out of spec - and always tighter.
Very little movement on any exhaust valves. Since you have to make changes anyway, have a look at ALL your clearances and choose shims to put them around two thirds to three quarters of the way between minimum and maximum (on the wide side). Chances are it could be the last valve adjustment you will ever need.

Double ( or triple) check those exhaust valves again before you pull the cams...

Do you have Yamafitter's Excel spreadsheet for shim calculations and recording of data? I don't think it is hosted on the forum any more...

 

[RossKean]

To add to the above (if you don't have it):

https://www.fjrforum.com/threads/an-excel-valve-clearance-spreadsheet.136915/
The original link is dead but Post #38 includes a Dropbox link that is still functional (as least as of June 02/23). Calculations are simple but this provides a double check and can be saved or printed for future reference and as a record of original condition and changes that were made.

Valve Clearances Spreadsheet - Link

 

[1FJR]

The first valve adjustment was at 22,000 and they were in spec according to the dealership. Now the bike has 63,000. Thanks for the idea to get them all in the middle. All the intake are right at the tight side.

 

[RossKean]

The first valve adjustment was at 22,000 and they were in spec according to the dealership. Now the bike has 63,000. Thanks for the idea to get them all in the middle. All the intake are right at the tight side.

My intakes were all acceptable but close to the minimum. When I finally had to make changes, I set all at around 3/4 of the range. Valves almost always get tighter on FJRs. (The spreadsheet link I posted will target 70% of the range.)
All my exhaust valves (both bikes) were close to the middle of the range and stayed that way. 186,000 miles on the '07 when I sold it, and 100,000 (so far) on the 2011.

 

[1FJR]

My intakes were all acceptable but close to the minimum. When I finally had to make changes, I set all at around 3/4 of the range. Valves almost always get tighter on FJRs. (The spreadsheet link I posted will target 70% of the range.)
All my exhaust valves (both bikes) were close to the middle of the range and stayed that way. 186,000 miles on the '07 when I sold it, and 100,000 (so far) on the 2011.

Well after a break from being able to work on the bike. I finally was able to finish the valve check/adjustment. Must say not the most fun. Got reall good on removing and installing the cams when trying to get the clearance where I wanted them.

 

[RossKean]

Well after a break from being able to work on the bike. I finally was able to finish the valve check/adjustment. Must say not the most fun. Got reall good on removing and installing the cams when trying to get the clearance where I wanted them.

Glad you got it sorted out!
FWIW, I make very careful initial measurements using a decent set of metric feeler gauges, calculate and install the shims and put it back together - once. Valve clearances have always worked out very close to the calculated value without having to take the cams off again and try a different shim. My only problem was screwing up the cam timing by a tooth. I didn't notice at the time but it became obvious when I started the engine and it didn't run decently. If you get it off more than a couple of teeth, you could conceivably wreck the engine when you attempted to start it.
This happened on my most recent valve adjustment and I have no idea what I did differently. For the next time I need to adjust, I am going to put alignment marks on the inside of the cam gears. I find it too difficult to accurately line up the marks - even with a bright flashlight and an inspection mirror.