Voltage reading a bit low?

[stuarto49]

UPDATE - 4-23

I accessed the R/R unit today, removed the plugs for cleaning and dielectric grease. Looked fine, no signs of overheating or corrosion.

Took the opportunity to measure the voltage drop between the RR Red connection and the battery + terminal.

At 3000 RPM with NO accessory loads (except for extra LED taillights) the DATEL (now connected to battery) is reading 13.7 - 13.8 V. Voltage drop 0.2V.

At 3000 RPM with BOTH sets of LED Denali light and the Oxford heated grips at 100% DATEL now reads 13.2 volts with an indicated drop of 0.42V

I think at this point the system is functioning OK but will keep an eye on the voltage when using various accessories (always more in the winter).

I would consider upgrading the RR with a MOFSET-based unit if I really desire to see 14 V on the DATEL.

Stuart

 

[Donal]

You should also measure the volts drop on the negative line and add that to the volts drop on the positive line. This will give the total voltage dropped in the complete circuit. Just measuring the 'red' line only gives part of the story.

 

[RaYzerman19]

I thought perhaps Ionbeam mentioned that the GenII regulator is a MOFSET type..........

 

[RadioHowie]

Optimally, you want to check the voltage at the R/R output connections AND at the battery terminals for comparison to determine if the voltage drop is between the R/R and the battery, as it had been on DCarver's ordeal, and reported by many others on Gen IIs.

Ideally, you should be seeing 14.0 to 14.2 V at the output side of the R/R and at the battery terminals at 3000k rpm with no load.

On Carver's Quest, the voltage drop was in the harness between the R/R and the battery, NOT at the R/R, if memory serves. His solution was a harness to bypass the bike's stock path from the R/R to the battery. With a "direct connection" he, and others, were reporting 14+ volts at the battery, as it should be.

 

[Chuck35]

Optimally, you want to check the voltage at the R/R output connections AND at the battery terminals for comparison to determine if the voltage drop is between the R/R and the battery, as it had been on DCarver's ordeal, and reported by many others on Gen IIs.
Ideally, you should be seeing 14.0 to 14.2 V at the output side of the R/R and at the battery terminals at 3000k rpm with no load.

On Carver's Quest, the voltage drop was in the harness between the R/R and the battery, NOT at the R/R, if memory serves. His solution was a harness to bypass the bike's stock path from the R/R to the battery. With a "direct connection" he, and others, were reporting 14+ volts at the battery, as it should be.

And as an added bonus, the old RR wires are perfectly suited to power an accessory fuseblock under the seat.

 

[Harald]

I haven't seen it mentioned, but Jack at https://www.roadstercycle.com/ makes a nice harness to connect your RR to the battery.

 

[dcarver]

Optimally, you want to check the voltage at the R/R output connections AND at the battery terminals for comparison to determine if the voltage drop is between the R/R and the battery, as it had been on DCarver's ordeal, and reported by many others on Gen IIs.
Ideally, you should be seeing 14.0 to 14.2 V at the output side of the R/R and at the battery terminals at 3000k rpm with no load.

On Carver's Quest, the voltage drop was in the harness between the R/R and the battery, NOT at the R/R, if memory serves. His solution was a harness to bypass the bike's stock path from the R/R to the battery. With a "direct connection" he, and others, were reporting 14+ volts at the battery, as it should be.

Exactly accurate, Howie. And I cleaned/lubed *every* connector too. The only fix was a direct run from RR to battery. It was the same harness described above.

 

[Bounce]

duplicate threads merged