gumba
Well-known member
Done 200k on Fjs. Never had a valve cover off. If they blow up, will hitch to town,
What if I never do the valve adjustment?
- Thread starter fjrsochs
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escapefjrtist
Searching for Dry Roads
FJRs have a very stable valve train...your choice to roll the dice and run it until it stops or perform a little preventive maintenance.
YMMV (literally)
--G
YMMV (literally)
--G
Interesting… when I bought my ’05 about 18mos ago, it also had around 50K miles on it with little service history. So the first thing I did was to check the valves and I found two tight: one intake and one exhaust.. not bad really (swapped CTT too). I’d never done one either (an FJR) but I’ve adjusted valves on many other bikes before so it’s all very similar… sound like the OP’s local mechanics either can’t be bothered or they’re content with oil and filter changes. Best to do it yourself anyway if you want it done right!
On the math… no big deal but I’ve never used the charts. Just measure the thickness of the outgoing shim and that of the replacement shim. The difference should be the amount of clearance you need to change to get it within range. Yes, some folks will get away with never checking, or seriously extending their intervals, but I like to do it for the peace of mind and knowing they are good (and it will be fully documented for the next owner).
Shiny side up, Amigos!
Mr. BR
On the math… no big deal but I’ve never used the charts. Just measure the thickness of the outgoing shim and that of the replacement shim. The difference should be the amount of clearance you need to change to get it within range. Yes, some folks will get away with never checking, or seriously extending their intervals, but I like to do it for the peace of mind and knowing they are good (and it will be fully documented for the next owner).
Shiny side up, Amigos!
Mr. BR
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Two people. Is this inferring that someone who can actually add and subtract can't turn a wrench? Valve checks require 3rd grade math skills at best. Look, scheduled maintenance is to prevent failures. You may get lucky, you may not. I know mechanics who never checked their valves because they mistakenly thought they loosened and they would hear it. I knew a guy that thought oil changes were unnecessary for his car. He just kept it topped off. He never had an engine seize. He never kept them over 100K miles either. In my blunt opinion, people that won't do scheduled maintenance are either 1 cheap, 2 dumb, or both. Some think they know more than the factory engineers about proper service intervals, see number 1.
Greenham
Well-known member
I'm new to the FJR and read with great interest the advice from many of the long time guys....
I will say I had a 2002 HD VRod.. which was the first year they made that bike. Valve checks were a hotly contested topic. HD wanted them checked every 15k miles. After paying a stealer $500 for that 1st check and being told 2 were "slightly" out of spec and shimmed. I decide to wait to 35k. After 5 or 6 years of experience many changed to 30k miles between checks.
What became very clear was the impact of riding style. The guys who "flogged" their bikes running to red line found they needed the 15k checks/adjustments. Those like me, that were far less aggressive riders could go, 30k between checks, and had far fewer needed adjustments.
Now that was a high performance water cooled, high RPM newly developed motor. While I don't think the check should be ignored indefinitely, it does seem possible to hold off for some time over the manual directives. At least until as another poster said, a Tech Session where others with the skills, ability and desire to help could be lined up.
I will say I had a 2002 HD VRod.. which was the first year they made that bike. Valve checks were a hotly contested topic. HD wanted them checked every 15k miles. After paying a stealer $500 for that 1st check and being told 2 were "slightly" out of spec and shimmed. I decide to wait to 35k. After 5 or 6 years of experience many changed to 30k miles between checks.
What became very clear was the impact of riding style. The guys who "flogged" their bikes running to red line found they needed the 15k checks/adjustments. Those like me, that were far less aggressive riders could go, 30k between checks, and had far fewer needed adjustments.
Now that was a high performance water cooled, high RPM newly developed motor. While I don't think the check should be ignored indefinitely, it does seem possible to hold off for some time over the manual directives. At least until as another poster said, a Tech Session where others with the skills, ability and desire to help could be lined up.
"Seem" being the operative word. Until you have several scheduled checks under your belt you won't know how that particular motor and your riding style pair up to affect the outcomes.
Redfish Hunter
Gone Fishing
What a great question. I will add a few of my own that all should have the same answer as yours.
Should I ever check my oil level? I read on the internet that FJRs don't burn oil, some actually produce oil.
Should I ever change my oil?
Should I ever change my spark plugs?
Should I check the air in my tires?
Should I change the final drive oil? (And what do I use?)
Should I ride in the rain?
This is too easy and too cheap for the peace of mind it buys. This is too good of a motorcycle to destroy from thrift or laziness. Find yourself a real mechanic, even if it means going to the dealership. They are not all bad.
Should I ever check my oil level? I read on the internet that FJRs don't burn oil, some actually produce oil.
Should I ever change my oil?
Should I ever change my spark plugs?
Should I check the air in my tires?
Should I change the final drive oil? (And what do I use?)
Should I ride in the rain?
This is too easy and too cheap for the peace of mind it buys. This is too good of a motorcycle to destroy from thrift or laziness. Find yourself a real mechanic, even if it means going to the dealership. They are not all bad.
The real New Orleans, Louisiana! I know two riders(non mechanics) and two mechanics (cruiser dudes, great guys) none of the above know FJR light speed.
Would you let a cruiser dude adjust your valves? They have a nice shop,steady business.
Would you let a cruiser dude adjust your valves? They have a nice shop,steady business.
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but I'm hearing some clatter that definitely wasn't there last year.
You must have more money to waste on failed engines than I do. When the maintenance on an engine is ignored you run a much greater risk of experiencing catastrophic failure. When you lunch the valves on an FJR you'll be replacing the entire top end. In most cases an engine swap is more cost effective.
Doing my own valve checks costs me a whopping couple of bucks for new o-rings on the coolant pipes and a long afternoon in the garage. That's all.
If I knewthat a prior owner had ignored a bike's valve checks for its entire life I would walk away from that bike regardless of the price. In my opinion, anyone willing to skip that important maintenance would probably run fast and loose with all the other ones too.
wheatonFJR
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gumba
Well-known member
My theory; 50% of amatures and 20% of pros **** this job up. (At least have complications). I have done 5 valve shim under (Gensis) before and it was a waste. Going in after .001 or .002 isn't worth it. Haven't seen a FJ burnt valve. I'm an amature!
How exactly does one "**** up" a valve check? By measuring wrong? Or are you saying they have trouble accessing and reassembling the valve cover?
I'd be inclined to agree that re-shims do result in problems sometimes due to incorrect timing, etc., but I would say that your percentages are a grossly exaggerated. You certainly hear a lot more hoopty-doo about the unsuccessful ones than those that go without incident, but that is just human nature.
The total clearance of the intake valves is only .006" on the lower end of spec when the engine is stone cold. What that equates to at normal operating temps is anyone's guess. My '05 had all 8 intakes at .006 on the very first check and didn't drop below spec until 75k miles, but all 8 valves were below at that time.
Could I have just ignored them and ridden the bike. Yep, I'm certain it would still be running now at 100k miles. But for the cost of 9 o-rings the peace of mind that I have gained, and confidence in the bike's state when transferring the ownership to my son, is priceless to me.
YMMV
I'd be inclined to agree that re-shims do result in problems sometimes due to incorrect timing, etc., but I would say that your percentages are a grossly exaggerated. You certainly hear a lot more hoopty-doo about the unsuccessful ones than those that go without incident, but that is just human nature.
The total clearance of the intake valves is only .006" on the lower end of spec when the engine is stone cold. What that equates to at normal operating temps is anyone's guess. My '05 had all 8 intakes at .006 on the very first check and didn't drop below spec until 75k miles, but all 8 valves were below at that time.
Could I have just ignored them and ridden the bike. Yep, I'm certain it would still be running now at 100k miles. But for the cost of 9 o-rings the peace of mind that I have gained, and confidence in the bike's state when transferring the ownership to my son, is priceless to me.
YMMV
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Bugnatr
Well-known member
**** it, keep riding who cares If she blows up you can pick up low millage gen 1 for sub 5 grand.
Haven't checked my underwear in years either.
Haven't checked my underwear in years either.
El Toro Joe
FYYFF
Hope you don't need any shims...
Bustanut joker
Well-known member
I was going to add my 2 cents but with two ******* answers/responses I think I'll just keep it to myself. Fukin noobs
KrustyKush
Member
I wish the job was as easy as on my 71 BMW R60/5, long ago lost in a fire. I made the tappets nice and quiet by adjusting the valves with the engine piping hot. Near zero clearance hot. Two valves per cyl. Airheads stuck right out in the wind. Could do the whole job start to finish wearing church clothes and under an hour.
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I;ve checked and adjusted valves on a total of 6 FJR's. They tend to tighten up over time, which can result in burned valves. When I find a valve that needs to be shimmed, I adjust the other valves on that cam to the 70th percentile give or take. I've shimmed as many as 9 valves out of 16, as well as none.
I helped a friend do a valve check on an 04 he bought on fleabay - and we discovered the cams were bent. Imagine what that would be like in 20K miles.
#4E2 seems to be the most problematic.
They DO change at the 26K check mark, and if you don't do checks you won't know there's a problem coming until it's arrived. And it will be an expensive one.
I helped a friend do a valve check on an 04 he bought on fleabay - and we discovered the cams were bent. Imagine what that would be like in 20K miles.
#4E2 seems to be the most problematic.
They DO change at the 26K check mark, and if you don't do checks you won't know there's a problem coming until it's arrived. And it will be an expensive one.
I did the first valve check on my 2005 at 39,000 miles. #4E1 &E2 were outta spec. I wasn't comfortable changing the shims so I took it to a shop I liked about 3000 miles later. I did change the cct while I had her apart.
Yea, it's smarter to do valve checks on schedule. And it ain't that hard. But ya gotta admit it's pretty freaking scary pulling off the valve cover for the first time on a $12,000 bike. If you "f" it up, it's gonna be expensive to fix. But there aint much to fuq up just removing the valve cover. Make sure to have new o rings and a cover gasket...ya never know if ya might need it and it'd be a shame to need it and not have it. Don't be a silly cheap bastage.
Reminds me...Gotta pull the valve cover on the "new to me" 06. And fluids, and rear tire, and fz1 mirrors, and pair plates, and straighten out fuse box wiring, and........ It's all good fun!
Yea, it's smarter to do valve checks on schedule. And it ain't that hard. But ya gotta admit it's pretty freaking scary pulling off the valve cover for the first time on a $12,000 bike. If you "f" it up, it's gonna be expensive to fix. But there aint much to fuq up just removing the valve cover. Make sure to have new o rings and a cover gasket...ya never know if ya might need it and it'd be a shame to need it and not have it. Don't be a silly cheap bastage.
Reminds me...Gotta pull the valve cover on the "new to me" 06. And fluids, and rear tire, and fz1 mirrors, and pair plates, and straighten out fuse box wiring, and........ It's all good fun!
